Jam-Filled Italian Crostate (or crostata if you prefer). It’s hard to walk into any bakery or pasticceria in Italy and not notice these little hand-pies right away. They are usually lattice-topped. But the lattice is typically a bit different in appearance than what we North American’s might expect on a lattice-topped pie.
That’s because Italians roll out thin strands of dough for the tops of these sweet pastries. They’re typically among the most rustic and humble of all the treats these shops offer. But there’s a mighty wallop of flavor packed into them.
The crust is often just as sweet as the jam, making this little tart seem more like a big cookie than a pie. In general these sweet doughs are called pasta frolla and they are rich and buttery. I use a recipe adapted from Dominica Marchetti that’s enhanced with a little lemon and orange zest. It has a crumbly, shortbread texture when baked, and should not be handled too much in the preparation as it can get rather tough with too much work.
I have seen other interesting versions too. Nancy Silverton uses sesame seeds in the pasta frolla dough in her new book, The Mozza Cookbook with Matt Molina & Carolyn Carreno. I have never seen sesame seeds in the crusts during my travels, but there’s something about the idea that just feels right to me. So I have added her version to my must make list.
Jam-Filled Italian Crostate
However, as an introduction to crostate I have decided to bring you a style as close in feeling to the the version I first experienced in Italy. That means the simplest of crumbly, sweet dough filled with the very best jam I can get my hands on.
I don’t usually make the jam specifically for crostate. Crostate are often made on a whim, so I use what ever I have on hand– straight from the jar. My advice is always have some good jam around the house. Or better yet, put aside some of your own homemade jam, as I do every summer with the figs from my neighborhood. GREG
Jam-Filled Italian Crostate
makes 8 CLICK here for a printable recipe
- 3 c unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
- 1 c confectioners sugar
- 1 pn kosher salt
- 1/8 t baking soda
- 1/8 t baking powder
- 1 t lemon zest
- 1 t orange zest
- 1 c cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2‑inch cubes
- 1 oz large egg
- 2 oz large egg yolks
- 8 heaping tablespoons jam. I used fig
Make the crust: Put the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, baking powder and lemon and orange zests in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse briefly to combine the ingredients. Distribute the butter pieces around the bowl and pulse until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. Add the egg and egg yolks and process until the dough just begins to come together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gather it together. Knead it briefly and shape it into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until well chilled (overnight is fine, as is frozen up to 1 month).
Form the crostates: Thaw dough in the refrigerator if frozen. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes, or until it is just pliable enough to roll, but not too soft to work with.
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Set aside.
Dust a cool flat working surface with flour. Dust a rolling pin with flour. Cut the dough in half then roll half to about 1/4‑inch thickness. Set it aside in the refrigerator as you roll out the other half. Use a plate about 6‑inches in diameter as a stencil and cut out four rounds. Save the scraps for the lattice. Repeat the process with the other half of the dough. You should get eight 6‑inch rounds. Place four on each prepared baking sheet. Chill the scraps.
Roll the edges of each round inward forming a 1/2‑inch rim. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of jam into the center of each round, then smooth the jam right up to the edge of the rim. Repat with all the rounds.
Remove the scraps from the refrigerator. Then pinch of a ping pong ball sized piece and roll it out with your fingertips to create a long, thin noodle like strand about 1/4‑inch in diameter. Continue to roll the remaining dough then cut the strands into forty-eight 6‑inch pieces.
Lay three strands evenly spaced across each jam-topped dough round. Then lay three more at an angle, creating a diamond-shaped lattice on each jam-topped dough round. Trim the strands with your fingertips, pinching them into place to stick.
Cover the baking sheets with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to one day.
To bake: Adjust the oven racks so that one is on the top third and the other is on the bottom third of the oven. Heat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Remove the baking sheets from the refrigerator, take off the plastic wrap and bake about 25–30 minutes, rotating the sheets halfway through, until golden. Remove the sheets to cool on a rack to room temperature.
Jam-Filled Italian Crostate (or crostata if you prefer)
[…] Pumpkin Ricotta Crostata, Lora’s Crostata alla Nutella and Greg’s rustic, free form Jam Crostata. And let’s not forget my favourite season, and my favourite berry; sweet and juicy […]
There’s nothing better than a simple roast chicken. Paired with the right wine, it makes a simply satisfying dinner.
Because of this.…“But they are hard to come by in today’s pumped up world”
I am now singing an amended Foster The People’s “All the other kids with their pumped up chicks.…”
But you make up for it with the “sometimes a memory” sentence, absolutely wonderful sentiment.
155f deep in the thigh? I could see that for the breast but at 155f aren’t thighs still going to be raw-ish? I like to take my thighs to 170f.
I’m with you on the no recipe. But — I HAVE to slide some salted butter under the skin. And over the skin. And in all the little nooks and crannies. It helps with my “au jus.” 🙂
[K]
Greg: this quote could synthetize my philosophy on food…and it might as well could be the title of a fantastic cook book: “I like the simplest preparation possible”. What a winner this dish is, in memory and in the present moment. I never ate roasted chicken with mustard…but must try. After all, in Italy, we eat “bollito misto” (mixed boiled meat) with “mostarda di cremona”.
How is the book coming along, BTW???
Roast chicken is well, dare I say it a true Bijouxs, a classic little jewel — and just the way I cook it too! Perfect Greg!
This is the one I usually stick to from Keller..high heat and simple seasoning and a decent bird is important too.
I infrequently make a whole bird but your post has me salivating for roast chicken — and smiling, just because your posts always make me smile.
A perfectly roasted chicken is a thing of beauty. Makes my mouth water, just thinking about it 🙂
I had to come back and say that Paleo making you laugh makes me laugh. Why is that all the rage right now and last week I tried a vegan restaurant and nearly hurled! No kidding and the place was packed. We are not a dying breed. They’ll all come back to meat and cheese one day!
I have a salted bird in fridge right now, so we are on same wave. The only thing I do differently is I roast breast down for first 30 minutes ala Zuni Cafe. But, dumb me, I already cut off that triangle. I didn’t know people ate that! Well, since I ate tongue, head cheese and souse, I’ll have to give that one a try next time. Really, though isn’t that the chicken butt? Shows I’m not really a farm girl, though I try to be. I love your idea of the mustard. I’m copying that.
Roast chicken is the very first thing that ever came out of my kitchen (after the canned potato and canned carrot fiasco as a teen of course). Cooked to perfection there really is nothing better as long as corn on the cob and potatoes are involved too, or maybe roasted beets.…
Thank you, Greg. A simple roast chicken, no frou frou, no gimmicks. I am weary of gimmicks. But I’m with the commenter who gets into a state just hearing the chicken spitting all over the oven. I’m the same way. That’s why I like to arrange to cook a nice roast chicken at a friend’s house! Neat trick, huh?
Hi Greg,
I’m with you. A gorgeous and perfectly roasted petite bird rocks my world. Pair it with a crisp green salad, throw in a glass of wine to gild the lily, and you are looking at one of my desert island meals. And Thomas Keller gets it right. It’s nice to see that, once again, you and I are of a like mind.
Being a pastry hound, I am a clean freak about my oven — and this recipe, as with all high heat roast recipes, can throw a fair amount of fat onto the oven walls. I always feel like a patient in rehab as I hear the fat spitting onto the oven walls. It’s all I can do not to get the Easy-Off out and ready to go for the clean-up.
A high heat roasted chicken that you don’t mess with is a good chicken. It sure can be hard to get folks to close that oven door and leave it closed. Ever notice that?
Thanks for another great post.
this is exactly what i want for dinner. tonight!
This chicken looks beautiful!
Hooray for roasted chicken! I always think making a good roast chicken is a mark of a truly competent cook. Plus then you have the whole carcass to use for broth!
Simple, fresh, in season… never disappoints
Now you have me hungry for roast chicken, which is one of my favorites, too. And yes, the thighs are the best part! I do wish it were easier to find small chickens.