The Hard-Boiled Egg Perfected

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perfect hard boiled egg on counterWhen a small detail is handled with the same love and attention as the (seemingly) more important broad strokes of whatever you do, then art is born.

This is true in our everyday lives. It is true in business; it is true in love and friendship. And it is certainly true in cooking.

Take the hard-boiled egg. Surely everyone must know how to do such a basic task. It seems a simple matter of “boiling” an egg in water until it’s “hard”.

Then why do otherwise excellent cooks and even some well-known restaurants handle the task so poorly?

Is it wrong of me to expect a hard-boiled egg to be perfect?

By perfect I mean a beautiful, slightly flaky, but still moist, bright yellow yolk. The white should be unblemished and elastic. Cooked to just the right point, and never, ever overcooked.

peeled eggs on plateForgive me if I seem out of place. But one often finds the egg of an otherwise lovely Niçoise treated as an afterthought. But a perfect hard-boiled egg is a vital component in a Niçoise. But often it is just plain overcooked.

The result is not only a dry and mealy yolk. But more abhorrently, that greenish gray line that appears around the yolk. I know you know what I am talking about. That greenish area is caused by sulfur. Overcooking causes it, and it’s your goal to avoid it.

Overcooking may be the most egregious offense the poor egg is subjected to. But it is not the only problem area on the road to a perfectly cooked hard-boiled egg.

egg with lemon in handFirst of all there is the problem of cracking during cooking. It’s a small detail and surely it is not too important to the overall success you seek. But, I am here to say, that is simply not true.

Cracks are ugly. They can cause the egg whites to gurgle out forming mis-shapen blobs. They can even discolor the exterior of the egg whites if (heaven forbid) you did not use a non-reactive saucepan.

Cracks also lead to the second problem people face when hard-boiling eggs. That is when the shell sticks to the white (which is technically called albumin). Hot water seeping between the shell and the albumin is one of the causes of an egg that just won’t eggs boiling in potpeel properly. So are less than fresh eggs. Which I KNOW you would never use.

Avoid cracking the shell in cooking and you are one step closer to mastering the perfect boiled egg. There is a trick I try that seems to keep the shell from cracking. Try rubbing lemon juice on the outside shell of the uncooked eggs.

I can’t say why it works. I can’t even say it definitively works. Maybe it’s a chemical reaction. Or maybe it’s simply the extra bit of love and attention you bestow on the eggs. That same love that causes you to slow down and think about what you are doing. Whatever the reason, I believe it works.

eggs in cold waterNext choose your pan wisely. It should hold your (room temperature) eggs in one layer without crowding them. They should fit comfortably. Shortcuts are unacceptable. So banish the thought.

Now cover your eggs with enough unsalted (this is not pasta) hot tap water to fully submerge them. Hot water is important, but do not use boiling water. That will surely crack your shells.

Bring the pan up to a boil over moderately brisk heat. Once a boil develops, turn the heat down to maintain a gentle, but full boil.

Then, for a standard 2-3 oz large to extra-large egg let them boil for 10 minutes exactly. crack the shell of a hard boiled eggSet a timer. Eggs are like chemistry. Their exact reaction to heat can be timed and accessed and conquered. So do not rely on guesswork. Boil for 10 minutes EXACTLY.

After 10 minutes (exactly) plunge the eggs into an ice bath. Leave them there one or two minutes until they feel cool enough to handle. Then gently tap the egg against the side of the bowl to break the shell somewhat. This will allow some cool water to get between the shell and the egg.

In about 1/2 hour the eggs should be thoroughly cold. The shells will easily slip off and you will be holding a perfect egg in the palm of your hand. It’s a sight to behold and one of the simple joys of cooking.

perfect hard boiled eggs on plate

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

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