Once you’ve arrived on the island of Moorea (just a short hop across the channel from Tahiti) it doesn’t take long for the idea to creep up on you. It might be the intense blue of a tranquil lagoon, or the unbelievably starry night skies. It could be the tropical breezes and the endless sunshine, or maybe it’s the dramatic way volcanic peaks are silhouetted against the sky.
In my case, however, it’s the barefoot elegance of a simple meal of Poisson Cru (French for “raw fish”) eaten beneath a rustling palm tree.
But whichever way you come to the conclusion it doesn’t take long to concede that yes, Moorea really is paradise.
Poisson Cru
When I travel I like to leave no mountain unclimbed and no taco, dumpling, or oca root untasted. So it’s no great surprise that on Moorea I’ve grown fond of a local dish known as Poisson Cru. It’s as ubiquitous as it is delicious, it’s on nearly every menu and its flavor defines Polynesia – sweet and exotic. If these islands have a national dish it must surely be this Polynesian twist on ceviche.
Like ceviche, Poisson Cru is raw fish “cooked” in lime juice. However, I don’t really like that comparison because it implies that Poisson Cru is as popular and well-known as ceviche (or sashimi, tartare, crudo, and Hawaiian poke). But it’s not. Maybe today’s best chefs aren’t vacationing in the South Pacific enough because the overlooked Tahitian Poisson Cru becomes uniquely Polynesian with one simple and very local addition – coconut milk.
So why then is it next to impossible to find Poisson Cru outside these islands?
I don’t know. And rather than worry about it I’ve decided that I should hone my Poisson Cru skills before I leave Moorea. So while some in our group head outdoors to snorkel, lounge, or perhaps hike to the Belvedere Lookout I set out in search of good fresh fish.
Having had a strong feeling I’d end up in the kitchen even on vacation I researched the fish mongers on Moorea before I left Los Angeles. So I knew there’s a fish market here simply called the Old Fish Market. It’s listed in all the guidebooks as a “Top Sight” on the island if for nothing else than a chance to view a beautiful old painting of the market by the famed Tahitian artist François Ravello. I’d read that the market is on Cooks Bay near a village called Pao Pao. On the map, it looks like it’s only a few kilometers from Villa Lagon the house where we’re staying. In the days leading up to this trip, I happily fantasized that I’d walk to the Old Fish Market – leisurely taking in the view of the island’s trademark “Shark’s Tooth” mountain – each morning of my stay. So, while on drives around the island, I kept my eyes open for the sign, Cooperatif de Pêche Moorea, after all, what’s better than fresh fish? Fresh fish with a French accent!
However, I soon realized there’s a reason they call this place the Old Fish Market. It’s not because it’s quaint, or old-school, or even because they sell yesterday’s catch. It’s called the Old Fish Market because it’s closed!
Which doesn’t turn out to be a problem. You can buy freshly caught fish – mostly tuna, mahi-mahi, or brightly colored reef fish – from a fisherman at makeshift markets casually set up on many street corners. At first, I’ll admit, it’s a little intimidating (and possibly dangerous to my digestion) to haggle over a raw fish hanging from a string by the side of the road. So I thought to myself that the fish at the huge Champion Toa Moorea Supermarket or the hunks of thon rouge at one of the many neighborhood magasins would probably be just fine. And for the first few days, it was. I poached local billfish in banana leaves and I tried my hand at Poisson Cru. Still, in the back of my mind, I knew I was missing out on an authentic south seas experience by not talking to the man or woman who actually caught the fish I was eating.
So towards the end of our stay, I made it a point to seek out a roadside fish stand and buy fish like a local. It was intimidating and I walked away several times. But I eventually came back because I realized that I was suffering from cultural imperialism. We Americans can be very prone to this affliction. I don’t want to be the kind of person who believes that my values are somehow automatically better than the values of another culture. Especially if I’ve never swayed my hips in their multi-colored sarongs before.
Besides, it’s moments like these that let you truly travel the world without merely vacationing from it. Buying that hunk of fish allowed me to see how proud this man is of his livelihood. It probably means good things for his family and the local economy. Still, it’s true, I sniffed and poked and questioned before I handed over my francs.
As for the rest of our stay on Moorea. Well, it’s paradise. From the white sands of Tema’e to waves crashing on the black lava rocks of Motu Tiahua. Whether you stay in the lap of luxury like our place at Villa Lagon, or you plant your butt in the sand and watch the sunset with the locals at a simple pension like Fare Tokoau (the happy, friendly, quiet Airbnb where we ended our stay), it’s all as beautiful as you ever imagined and then some. GREG
Ingredients
- ¼ cup kosher salt
- 2 cup cold water
- 4 cup ice cubes
- 1 pound raw fish (cut into 3/4‑inch chunks, mahi mahi and local tuna are the most Tahitian choices)
- 3/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
- 2 medium tomatoes (seeded and chopped, optional)
- 1 carrot (peeled and shredded)
- 1 cucumber (peeled, seeded, and cut into shards or dice)
- ½ cup sliced or diced sweet onion (optional)
- 1 bell pepper (quartered lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise, optional)
- 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
- sea salt (to taste)
- freshly cracked black pepper (to taste)
- sliced green onion (as garnish, optional)
- lime wedges (to taste)
Directions
Brine the fish: Combine kosher salt and water in a large mixing bowl and stir to dissolve the salt. Add ice cubes and soak the fish in the brine for about 10 minutes. Locals swear this makes the fish more tender. Pick out the ice cubes, drain well and set the fish aside in a large bowl.
Toss the fish chunks with the fresh lime juice allow it to marinate for about five minutes then pour off and discard about ½‑cup of the lime juice, or to taste. Add any combination of the above vegetables, toss to combine. Carrots and cucumbers are required, the others are optional. Pour the coconut milk over the mixture and season with sea salt and black pepper to taste. Garnish with green onion (if using) and lime wedges.
Just back from FP .… and in Poison Cru withdrawal. We at it almost everyday… we finished our trip to FP at the Fare Tokoau with Alex and Tea also. Thanks for the article and the recipe
i like your trip so much. where do you by the fish call ‘tuna”?
It was available all over the island at small grocery stores and large ones too. GREG
wow! This place is amazing!! Looking at this is like summer is coming nearby! I’m easy to fall in love with the beautiful beaches with palms and full of peace like this one.
Wow, you really do lead the good life! I’m going to hunt down some top notch tuna for this dish, thanks!
So glad you had an awesome trip. We were in Papeete over 30 years ago. It was gorgeous. Only had a 4 day layover from Australia and we were broke way back then. But it was gorgeous and humid and we sweated a lot. It was so worth it!
I went to Moorea when I was 10 years old. If only I’d been old enough to have cared more about what I was eating! Your pictures are truly stunning — what a paradise it is. I would step right into the water if I could. I will definitely be trying this recipe as I adore all sorts of raw fish dishes, especially when they have a tropical vibe. So smart you did your homework before you left!
I’ve been following your exotic break on FB and Instagram and enjoying every minute, you guys sure know how to live! I always hope I have time to end up in the kitchen on our vacations but sometimes it’s just not in the cards. I know exactly what you mean about being intimidated by the fish stands (I may have even commented on one of your posts that I’d be skeptical about buying raw fish roadside) and you are so right about cultural imperialism (love that term!!) it really hits the nail on the head; what right indeed? We experienced that in Morocco to a degree, the pride in their culture was enviable! I, too came back to reality with a mind more open.
Now about your recipe, several years ago, on a trip to Vegas, I had the most awesome ceviche at a famous Mexican restaurant (no longer there), that had coconut milk in it! I had no idea it was Polynesian! I tried to replicate it but it wasn’t spot in. I’m so excited that you posted this recipe because both JT and I (yes, even JT) are totally loving the Poke trend in the city, so this recipe would be something he would enjoy, I know I would, without question. Definitely bookmarking for September, when we detox for the month!
I like your thoughtful analysis of your purchasing decisions! Your photos are spectacular and am wondering what that fish tastes like and the availability of the ingredients. Was the coconut milk fresh from a coconut you bought?
The fish we mostly bought was called “tuna” locally though I suspect much of it was actually Amber Jack, sometimes called Yellowtail in the US. A delicious (sustainable smallish silver fish) that should not be confused with Yellowfin a true tuna that is best avoided from a sustainability standpoint. As for the coconut milk it was “fresh” from a carton and was processed locally. But not by me. GREG
I checked out the grocery store link. Interesting!
Oh my … I am dreaming of a trip like this! It truly looks like heaven. The rustling palm trees, those mountains, the blue water and that sky — a dream come true. Good for you! Glad you had a wonderful trip and thank you for sharing your photos — they are fantastic!
I’m full of envy here at your most wonderful adventure. GOTTA get there! And gotta try this, too — sounds like a fun dish Thanks!