Fresh off my Harissa Shrimp and Beans I’ve got a Cauliflower Galette with Labneh, Pickled Raisins, and Harissa. There’s that word again harissa. It seems I’m a bit like a kid with a new toy. I bought a couple of tubes of harissa paste and I can’t resist squeezing some into almost anything.
Including a pie! Well, a galette actually.
The Joy of the Kitchen
Times are tough right now and I think many of us are relearning the joy in the simple things that keep us tied to home. If this pandemic has taught me anything it’s that I can’t (I won’t) give up on joy.
One place I find joy is in the kitchen. I realize the kitchen has developed a reputation as a thankless task-master. I recognize that not all kitchen chores are fun. I don’t like peeling garlic. Sometimes I have to look the other way when dealing with raw meat. I’d rather pay someone to clean my oven and no matter how hard I try and can’t keep my kitchen floor up to snuff.
But for every one of those tasks, there are two or three (or more) reasons why I love seeking refuge in the kitchen. This Cauliflower Galette is proof.
There are a lot of things to like about this “pie”. First, there’s my newfound interest in harissa. Rich with garlic and complex spices it’s an easy way to add zip to most anything savory.
Labneh is another element in the recipe that’s been intriguing me lately. In case you’re unfamiliar, labneh is a soft cheese with a smooth texture similar to cream cheese. It’s made from strained yogurt and is very popular in Middle Eastern cuisine. Don’t be confused by its many spellings. Lebneh, lebnah, labaneh, labane, labne, and labni are all labneh.
Then there are the simple sweet & sour golden raisins. They add just the right counterbalance. Without them, this pie might become a bit too heavy in the mouth.
The Joy of Pastry
But let’s face it: a Cauliflower Galette is – as I’ve been hinting – a pie. The most casual pie you can imagine. The pastry comes together effortlessly. It rolls out beautifully. No crimping or fussy lattice-work involved.
What I’m saying is that it’s the pastry in this recipe that brings me the greatest joy. Whether it’s used in pie, or in something more rustic and fundamental, I enjoy working with pastry dough.
I always fear that people make pie dough way too complicated. So I have included the basic recipe from my book Savory Pies. But trust me. Once you’ve made a few pies you won’t need a recipe. You’ll learn to recognize what makes the dough work – because your climate, your kitchen, even your hands play a role in the making of one of the kitchen’s simplest pleasures.
But I’m not here to teach you how to make pie dough. I just want to remind you that the kitchen can be a joyful place to work. I think this Cauliflower Galette proves my point. GREG
Print This RecipeTotal timeYieldTwo 8- to 10-inch pie crusts or one 8- to 10-inch double-crust pie shellSource Savory Pies by Greg HenryPublished
High-fat European-style butter is essential to a perfect pie crust. Which, along with chilling, helps keep the dough flaky and minimizes shrinking. Many people swear that the addition of ¼ teaspoon white vinegar or lemon juice makes for a guaranteed flaky crust. I’m on the fence but you can add these if you want to.
Ingredients
2 3/4 cupall-purpose flour(or 390 grams, plus more as needed)
1 teaspoonkosher salt
18 tablespoonvery cold high-fat, European-style unsalted butter(cut into ½‑inch dice)
2–3 ice cubes
¼ cupice cold water(plus 2 or more tablespoons optional)
Directions
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade attachment pulse flour and salt 5 or 6 times until well combined. If there are additions such as spices, herbs, cheese, vinegar or lemon juice add these now (see specific recipes).
Add butter, and continue pulsing until the mixture is crumbly and coarse, with various-sized but obvious chunks of butter scattered throughout.
Place two ice cubes, broken up if necessary into the feed tube of the food processor. With the machine running, pour ¼ cup cold water through the ice-filled feed tube a little at a time until dough just comes together and begins to pull cleanly away from the sides of the bowl in jagged clumps. Don’t let the machine run too long and don’t worry if you don’t use all the water. Overworked dough and/or too much water are the main culprits in pastry that is tough or dense. However, in dry climates you may need up to an additional 2 or more tablespoons more cold water. You’ll learn to know when it’s the right balance of wet and dry.
Move the dough to a lightly floured work surface and gently knead 2 or 3 times. If the dough seems quite sticky or at all wet, sprinkle in another few teaspoons flour. Give the dough another couple of quick, gentle kneads. Divide dough in half. Shape into two discs about 5‑inches round and 3/4‑inch thick, or as indicated in individual recipes. Wrap in plastic. Refrigerate at least 1 hour (or up to 2 days) to distribute moisture evenly, or freeze up to 1 month.
kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper(to taste)
4 tablespoonextra-virgin olive oil(divided)
1 ½ poundfresh cauliflower florets(not frozen)
your favorite pie dough(enough to make one 12-inch round once rolled)
1 egg yolk mixed with 1 teaspoon water(as egg wash)
arugula or mint leaves(optional)
Directions
Place the raisins, cumin seeds, and coriander seeds in a small bowl pour enough vinegar over the raisins to just cover them. Set them aside to plump and pickle in the liquid at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Drain them before using them. It’s fine to keep the seeds that cling to the raisins.
Place the oven rack in the center position and preheat to 425°F.
In a medium bowl mix labneh and lemon juice together until smooth and spreadable. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the harissa, 3 tablespoon olive oil, a pinch or two of salt, and a generous grinding of black pepper. Place cauliflower florets into the bowl with the harissa mixture; gently stir to coat evenly.
Spread the cauliflower onto a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Roast 25 minutes until the cauliflower is tender-crisp. A vegetable that is cooked tender-crisp is heated and cooked all the way through, but still has some snap to it. Remove from oven and set aside to cool completely. This may be done a day ahead of time. Store cooled florets covered in the refrigerator.
Lower the oven temperature to 400°F. On a floured work surface, roll the dough out into a 12-inch round. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread the labneh mixture evenly over the bottom of the galette dough, leaving a 2‑inch border. Toss the pickled raisins with the cooled cauliflower and pile the mixture over the labneh (respecting the 2‑inch border). Drizzle the remaining tablespoon olive oil evenly over the cauliflower. Fold the border over the filling, pleating the edge as needed. The center will be open. Brush the exposed crust with egg wash and freshly cracked black pepper.
Bake the assembled galette until the crust is golden brown and the cauliflower is lightly charred 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, let stand for a few minutes, then slide the galette onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature with a handful of arugula or mint leaves (if using).
so so good easy to follow I cheated with store bought pastry and used Flan pan, however it was just the trick and I don’t even like cauliflower
This looks might delicious and your directions make it doable.
Love the combination of flavors and textures!
Greg,
Labneh sounds interesting with raisins. I’m another harrissa fan and it’s lavished always. Like you I have some love ‑hate moments in my kitchen- the agony of chopping those onions, don’t ask the battle each time. But yes for the lovely Joy that is undeterred over chopping onion. Glad to have found your blog. Some great cooking here!
Oh my God, it never occurred to me that that’s what those holes are for!
How do you get the ice to stay in the chute?
Mine is set up for drizzling oil etc into the bowl while the lid is on and the machine is running. It has a narrow chamber with a bottom that has a tiny hole in it. GREG
This looks like pure heaven. I adore labneh and harissa. Add cauliflower and you have a winner.
Dear Sip,
Thank you for this post…they are lovely sentiments and a good reminder to enjoy the work in the kitchen. I must admit cooking special meals day after day after day does get “tiresome” it was lovely to read your post. Thank you.
Sincerely Chris
YUM! I love harissa, and much prefer the old-fashioned one in the tube, rather the the newer ones found in so many grocery stores now.
Very cool method for the pastry, Greg — ice cubes would never have occurred to me.
I have to come up with a harissa substitute… still have not made my own and I know it would be something I would use often. Pickled raisins? Love that, too.
This is beautiful. Forget the cauliflower! I love the idea of labneh with harissa and raisins! I really dislike peeling garlic too, and I use it probably every day. Before the pandemic, in anticipation of my hand surgeries, I did a lot of blog posts in advance. Then the pandemic hit, and I really had no reason to do any more posts, and that’s when I realized how much my kitchen is really my happy place! I cook for my husband daily, but his needs are limited. Lean meat, vegetables. Blah. Anyway, I understand you joyful ness!
You can’t overuse harissa as far as I’m concerned. Love the stuff. And speaking of joy in the kitchen, I used to make my own harissa. Never really enjoyed the process. So I always buy it these days. Big win, as far as I’m concerned. Anyway, delightful recipe. I like making pie dough, but Mrs KR does a better job, so she always does it. This is such a great way to use cauliflower. And labneh. And harissa, of course. Which I’ll buy. 🙂
I have seen this recipe on french cooking show, Never tasted or tried it. The dish looks amazing Greg. I really loved the idea of open pie. Sure gonna try