
I love summer. I love summer dining too, as long as it’s simple. Both in concept and execution. Four hour braises are not my idea of a poolside activity. Unless those braises come squished between two slices of crunchy bread (and are prepared by somebody besides me). As I said I’m too busy with poolside activities to give cooking my full attention. This isn’t to say I won’t cook during the summer. I just prefer it be simple and go with whatever I happen to be drinking. Which makes Croque Monsieur an example of simple summer dining.
Are your eyebrows raised? A gooey, cheesy Croque Monsieur is certainly wintertime, fireside food– right?
Well yes… and no. It just depends on what you’re drinking.
When I was younger I used to drink vodka mixed with something sweet and fruity enough to mask the fact that I was drinking. Vodka is what non-drinkers drink. But let’s face it, fruity vodka highballs may look pretty and pink in a frosted glass, but you can’t actually drink them with food (at least food you want to taste). So when it comes to simple mixed-drinks I switched to bourbon decades ago (yes, I’ve been known to exaggerate). However, as friendly as bourbon is with food, it takes a lot of talent to turn it into a warm weather quaff.
White wine is weather friendly and seems a natural this time of year. But too many hosts rely on crowd pleasing varietals lacking in enough character to stand next to food. While it’s true mass market Pinot Grigio goes down like water (only happier) it will never be a fine food wine. As I said, when the thermometer rises, I prefer to eat whatever goes with what I’m drinking.
Wine Pairing
2011 Charly Thevénet Régnié Grain & Granit, Beaujolais

Price $26
Pairs well with duck confit, cassoulet, croque monsieur, cheese fondue
Lemonade and boiled peanuts. Rosé wine and grilled vegetables. Beer and just about anything salty and crunchy. Something like a Croque Monsieur.
I see I haven’t convinced you. Maybe that’s because you’ve never had a proper Croque Monsieur. Which I understand. Many (most) of them are just pale excuses for dispatching stale bread without sacrificing too much ham or cheese. The combination is only made worse when it’s fried up in a skillet that tastes like old eggs. Besides, most of them weigh at least a half a pound and take two hands to eat. These type of monstrosities are sure to dribble greasy cheese onto your poolside kaftan. That’s unacceptable summer behavior.
There is another way to go when it comes to summertime Croque Monsieur however.
A good Croque has a crunch that comes from the crackling edges and corners. The cheese is important, but it’s also important to remember that a Croque Monsieur is not a cheese sandwich. So don’t over stuff it. The cheese won’t melt properly and the edges will get soggy. Instead allow the béchamel layered with ham stand out. Ideally, the sandwich should also be toasted quick and hot under a salamander. But a super hot oven, and a bit more time, seems to be the best way for a home cook to achieve success (even better than the broiler which usually lacks enough ambient heat to get the job done). Also, and this may sound like sacrilege, I prefer Jarlsberg in my Croque Monsieur. I know Gruèyre is traditional (and delicious), but Jarlsberg is less greasy when it melts.
As I said, Croque Monsieur is perfect with ice cold beer. However, if you really want to impress your summertime guests serve these little sandwiches with a glass of lightly chilled Charly Thevénet Régnié Grain & Granit, Beaujolais– if that’s what your drinking poolside this summer. GREG
I have to say you did this up beautifully and there is always room for beauty at a the summer poolside, don’t you think? And bourbon as a summer drink is a fine challenge I know you are up to!
Ooh, that is, I think the best looking Croque Monsieur I’ve seen in a long time. I just love them — my fave after a nice burger. And what a nice wine pairing. Bravo!
Oh Greg, that looks so delicious! My mouth started to water the minute I saw the first photo. Magnificent!
Oh my, an all-time favorite sandwich, well second to a hamburger…chalk it up to my eclectic taste! Beautiful!
Greg — I have to admit that (with the Croques) I am totally bi. Love both Monsieur and Madame. And I love your recipe. As many as I have consumed (am only doing poolside now in a muumuu), I have never made one. It is high time. And, as I caught up on your posts in reverse order, I paired the Beaujolais with lamb, but can easily see it with one of these tasty sandwiches.
Delightful. And any food becomes summer when you can serve those little pickles (gherkins?) with them:)
I’ve been dreaming of croque monsieur’s lately (weird, I know) time to go make some. Love your addition of whole grain mustard.…yum.
If that were to appear in my kitchen right this second I would be the happiest girl on the planet.
I sooooo want one of these right now!
Pretty little cornichons and a glass of wine with a sandwich square. Sounds like summer to me.
This is making me ridiculously hungry. Croque and ice-cold beer, s’il vous plait!
Greg, you’ve got the Croque down! Rarely have I seen such a well-made Croque as yours.
Any time of the year is good for Croque Monsieur!!
Oh, my! That looks divine and the Beaujolais pairing sounds wonderful…but I’d be happy with fine cold brew.…mmm, mmm good!
I believe you and I want one NOW!
It’s almost lunch time and I’m daydreaming of a poolside lunch of croque monsieur with a nice glass of wine!