Anchovy Aioli Redux

15 Jan 2009
Posted by Greg Henry
Printer Friendly Printer Friendly Email a friendEmail a friend

For all of you with single-minded culinary brains redux is not a method for thickening a sauce. It is a Latin word that means "brought back" or "revisited".

I am bringing back one element of yesterdays Sippity Suppers. I got a comment from Nick at imafoodblog. It sorta freaked me out.  I was afraid there might be a video camera in my kitchen. I mean other than the video camera in my kitchen that I put there! I like to have a complete record of all my comings and goings.

Here is why I freaked out:

This morning at 7:29, California time (after all what other kind of time is there…), which is exactly the moment I got out of bed. Also very eerie. I received this message from Nick regarding the aioli I made for a Tuna Pizza with Anchovy Aioli.

Nick said: “While the recipe does not call for it, I would probably add a dollop of mustard (based on the ingredients here, a spicy mustard) to the egg yolk mixture prior to streaming in the oils. The mustard will help to ensure the oil is properly emulsified into the egg yolks resulting in the desired texture. It is certainly possible to make mayo or an Aioli without the added mustard power, but I have found that about 50% of the times I've tried to do so ended up in a complete fail!”

It’s like he knew my aioli was thin and watery. Is he following me? Am I going to have to get yet another restraining order? You bloggers are maniacs!

But it was true. I purposely left out a picture of that dish in my blog-post because I was unhappy with the aioli! How weird is that!

All day today at work I had aioli on the brain. Could Nick have the answer to my decades old problem?

I have never made a good aioli before. It has always failed. I often cheat by adding flavoring to a dollop of good ole Hellmans. I had given up on ever making a decent aioli.

If I had been making the Tuna Pizza for a dinner party before I started this blog. I probably would have cheated and used a mayo base. But, do to my undying ego, I mean integrity. I felt obligated to re-create Masaharu Morimoto’s pizza EXACTLY as written!

I am not a scientist. But I understand the need for standards and baselines!

Anyway, I got home today and decided to make the aioli again. This time with Nick’s suggestion of a “dollop” of spicy mustard, which I took to mean 2 teaspoons. I am also using a mini-food processor to make Joelen happy.

...and look there is a video of the whole thing! Aren’t you glad I really do have a video camera in my kitchen?

Stumble It!

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

watch video

 

Comments

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

French Culinary

Thanks Gayle. Yes, FCI is in New York (Broadway & Grand). I agree with you that at least a few years of traditional education is the way to go for someone right out of high school. I especially recommend FCI for second-career folks like me. It was an amazing and enriching experience. Greg: Don't sell yourself short--you're practically an encyclopedia (albeit a "nutty" one), and a foodie through-and-through. It's in our blood.

Posted by Grant | Jan 16th, 2009 at 7:02 pm | Reply

Thanks

And not just because you agreed with me about my daughter. I also saw that you did a video here as well. You should do more. You could be the "voice of reason". Not that your brother is unreasonable...Oh shut-up Gayle. Now Greg will be mad at me!

Posted by Abi-GAYLE | Jan 18th, 2009 at 11:31 am | Reply

Perfection

I'm glad it worked out well for you there, sir. Now go through every cookbook you own and add "dollop" of mustard to any aioli recipe you may find.

Genius, ha! I'm flattered.

Posted by Nick | Jan 16th, 2009 at 10:33 am | Reply

With all due respect . . .

Greg (and Nick),
The addition of a dollop of mustard as an emulsifier in aioli, mayonnaise, or even your basic vinaigrette, is a pretty common method. A few other well-known techniques to ensure cohesion would be to beat the yolks before adding to the processor, adding a little hot water while blending, and of course, letting your ingredients (especially the egg yolks) come to room temperature before starting. I'm surprised, however, that the anchovies themselves didn't produce sufficient emulsification. Bon appetit!

Posted by Grant | Jan 16th, 2009 at 9:42 am | Reply

Speaking of Respect...

Grant is my brother. I did not know he was lurking around SippitySup. He is a French Culinary Institute trained chef. He knows all kinds of stuff I just pretend to know. So everybody on your best behavior please! GREG

Posted by Greg Henry | Jan 16th, 2009 at 10:43 am | Reply

French Culinary? New York?

Welcome Grant. You probably already knew this but your brother is nuts! Addicting, but nuts. May I ask you a question about The French Culinary Institute. Is that the school in New York. My daughter wants to go there. She is only 16 and has a year and half left of high school, and may change her mind. I support her decsion to consider a career in food. But I think she will be kind of young at 18 for such a program. I would prefer she spend a couple of years in college before making that choice. Do you have an opinion? This is probably not the venue for such a question. But you are the first person I have "met" who went there. Thank You! Gayle

Posted by Abi-GAYLE | Jan 16th, 2009 at 5:38 pm | Reply

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Allowed HTML tags: <a> <p><em> <strong><cite><ul> <ol> <li><br /><img>
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.

More information about formatting options

CAPTCHA
This question is for preventing automated spam submissions.
5 + 4 =
Solve this simple math problem and enter the result. E.g. for 1+3, enter 4.

Tag Cloud