Boiled cabbage. There I said it. That’s because I have more selfishness for you. This time it’s selfish cabbage soup with chestnuts and pancetta. I said I was going to only cook things that appealed to me at the most basic level for a while and I meant it. Cabbage appeals to me. It’s not a glamorous vegetable. Many otherwise intelligent people shun cabbage. Especially boiled cabbage. But to me, it’s one of those elemental foods I’ve been trying to get back to all week. Besides, I’ve included chestnuts and pancetta to soften the shock of boiled cabbage.
You see, I believe cabbage can help me reboot! I’ve been feeling like my blog is getting away from me. So I’ve spent the last few posts trying to focus on the foods I love. Because lately, I’ve put too much of my attention on exterior forces: numbers, popularity, publicists, trends. Then there’s FoodBuzz, I found myself bending to the new realities there too.
Don’t get me wrong. Numbers are important to a blog, and I’m kind of a numbers wonk. Publicists also play an important role in the success of a blog. And FoodBuzz. I bet nobody loves FoodBuzz more than me. I credit FoodBuzz (along with TasteSpotting and FoodGawker) with being the glue that brings food bloggers together and transforms us into a community. In fact, it’s this very glue that I love most about blogging. So I’m not dissing any of these outside influencers.
But just because those entities do so much good for our community doesn’t mean they’re always right when it comes to what’s best for us as individuals. What we do with this community is entirely up to us. What’s a community if not a collection of individuals with shared interests and the means to share them? What’s a blog if not a reflection of its individual author?
Cabbage Soup with Chestnuts and Pancetta
Well, lately when I take a peek into the community food blog mirror I see a man who’s gotten a little lost. I have to wonder, what distinguishes my blog from any other. On the surface– not much. But at its most elemental the obvious answer is me. I am what distinguishes this blog from any other. That means all my strengths and weaknesses combined.
So I decided to bring a few posts reminding you (or do I mean me?) why I started this blog in the first place. There’s plenty of time for crowd pleasers and Top 9 Cupcakes. Ultimately I cook to please people, so I’m sure I’ll get back around to it… I’m not a heretic!
But in the meantime, you’ll be seeing recipes that appeal to me, warts and all. Things like bloody rare beef, or fennel and wild greens from the hills near my house. It also means things that actually make otherwise good and decent people disgusted. Yep, I mean anchovies, and maybe even quail. I can do quail if I feel like it. I can do beef tongue or confit of pigs heart. I’m not saying I will, but these are foods I have enjoyed recently and am inspired by.
But it can also mean something less exotic, and far more humble. Something not really as appreciated as it should be. It can mean cabbage.
Chestnut, Pancetta and Cabbage Soup
serves 6 CLICK here for a printable recipe
- 20 raw chestnuts
- 6 c water
- 1 T salt
- 1 cavolo nero or savoy cabbage, tough outer leaves removed
- 2 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 7 oz pancetta, sliced thin and cut crosswise into ribbons
- 1 large onion, cut into 1/4″ dice
- 3 clv garlic, peeled and minced
- 2 t rosemary leaves
- 1 c red wine
- salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Instructions
Find the flat side of each chestnut and cut a large X with a sharp paring knife all the way through the skin. Be very careful, it’s easy to slip on the surface of the chestnut. I wear a silicon glove.
Place chestnuts on a shallow baking pan and place in the oven to roast for about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of nuts. Shake pan several times to rotate chestnuts so they will cook evenly.
Peel roasted chestnuts as soon as they are cool enough to handle. Once they cool completely, they are difficult to peel. Roughly chop the peeled nuts. Set aside.
Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a large stock pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Add the chopped cabbage and cook about 15 minutes. Turn the heat off and cover the pot to keep warm.
Warm the olive oil in a very large skillet set over medium heat. Add the pancetta, and cook stirring often, until it just begins to brown about 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often about 3 more minutes until the onion softens. Add the rosemary and garlic, cooking another 2 or 3 minutes.
Using tongs move about half of the cabbage to the skillet with the onion mixture. Add the wine to the skillet and cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid is evaporated. Turn off the heat and set aside.
Using an immersion blender puree the remaining cabbage and its cooking liquid in the stock pot. Add the reserved onion mixture, stirring to incorporate. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Using the immersion blender, blend the soup just a little bit to get a variable texture. It can be as rough or smooth as you prefer.
Add half the reserved chestnuts and bring the soup to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Serve the soup hot with a garnish of remaining chestnuts and a drizzle of olive oil.
Notes
This soup is particular beautiful if you can find a deeply purple cavolo nero cabbage. Which is not the same thing as a red cabbage. Use green savoy if a cavalo nero is not available.
Artichokes are easy to work with and I love eating them. They create pretty presentations. I’ve even used them to make candle holders. The older ones that you know will not taste good are perfect for this.
i love ’em but … these suckers are A LOT of work and the one and only time i’ve tackled them, ended up with a wound that took a bit to heal — OUCH! i guess that makes me a wuss, doesn’t it Greg?? sigh … i know i should put my big girl panties on and try again, right? cuz’ i am really liking the look of this dish!
oh how i love me some artichokes! the things you can do with them. glad for you that its harvest time. i can’t wait to get my hands on some local ones myself!
I usually end up steaming my artichokes, but this isn’t much more work and sounds fantastic. I’m going to pick some artichokes up real soon and give this a try.
yet all I can think about is how gross it would be to eat an earwig.
The flavor of artichokes make my tastebuds tingle with joy. And when I hear the word “mouthfeel” it seems pretentious but artichokes do have it. It’s not just a taste it’s a party.
I see the frost kisses! Did not know about this — another great Market Matters post! Congrats on the Top 9, too.
Great post. I have baked Artichokes several times but never knew all the useful details you shared. Thanks for sharing these great hints and the gorgeous recipe.
Artichokes are my favorite vegetable! I’ve never baked them but now I want to! This dish looks incredible! Congrats on the top 9!
These look amazing! I’ve never made artichokes in this fashion (w/o boiling first). I can’t wait to try your recipe! I love artichoke season!!
This is great! I’ve never baked artichokes and what a simple way to prepare this veggie. Love the addition of kalamata olives! I’m definitely making this and sharing it on twitter right now! Congrats on Top 9, the veggie dishes always win me over! Ha!
Greg…We are next door neighbors on Tasteologie today and I wanted to stop by and say that this is gorgeous. My 8 year old daughter is an artichoke maniac (like mom) and she gave me the “omigoshmommythatlookssooooogoooood” when she saw it. We will be trying this. Thanks for a great recipe.
Hi Greg
I have never seen artichokes prepared that way, I love it! my wife is a big artichoke fan, I will have to make these for her.
Congrats on your top 9 today!
Dennis
I adore artichokes, and really developed this love when I moved to California. I especially remember finding some amazing varieties at the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market when I was living down there years ago — I think it was then that I truly fell in love. But I have yet to encounter an earwig (ick!) — thanks for the warning!
Lucky me, I live just a few miles north of Castroville, in Capitola 😉 Lovely recipe, easy and rich with flavor. A real keeper.
Frost kissed ‘chokes have brown “burns” that you can flake with a fingernail to distinguish frost burns from old age. Of course the shriveled almost black stem end is a sure giveaway for past prime. On the other hand, you can get crummy looking ‘chokes for pennies on the dollar and use the still good bottoms for marvelous soups, fritters, antipasti and more!
I could eat artichokes every day and never grow tired of them! Thanks for the inspirational recipe 😉
Yes, I know about the frost kisses. It makes the chokes a bit sweeter, I and others think. If you look closely at my top photo you’ll see a few kisses on these chokes. I didn’t bring it up in the main post because I thought it might confuse people. But you said it so well it all worked out in the end. Thanks so much. GREG