During my time along the Kona coast I have made an effort to introduce myself to authentic Hawaiian foods. Hawaiian Poke is a raw fish dish and is a great example of authentic Hawaiian food because modern poke represents the best of the traditional and is friendly to modern influences and flavors.
For many people living in (and visiting) Hawaii poke is a food staple. According to my research, poke has been eaten on these islands longer than any other food. Captain James Cook was even served a simple form of poke during his visits to Hawaii as far back as 1878.
Today poke can be found everywhere from high-end resorts to hole-in-the-wall eateries. It comes pre-made at the grocery store, or lovingly prepared by home cooks. It is a must at island parties and celebrations. No luau would be complete with out at least 3 or 4 poke choices. Chef Sam Choy considers two things when determining how “local” a diner is when they visit Hawaiian restuarants: Their ability to eat peas with chopsticks and a proper appreciation for Island Style raw fish. In other words poke is the king of all Hawaiian Food.
Poke (pronounced POE-kay) is a Hawaiian word meaning “to slice or cut crosswise into pieces as in fish or wood.” Well it’s good to have a word that covers both tasks, but it has become a shorthand phrase for any sort of raw fish that has been gutted, gilled and filleted. Initially the entire slab of fish was passed around and eaten by everyone in the group. Each spitting out the inedible parts and bones. But that does not really appeal to me so I am presenteing a trio of updated versions that can be enjoyed using more mundane dining practices.
That’s because poke has been evolving for a very long time. It may have started as a simple food pulled from the sea and eaten on the spot, but even the ancient Hawaiians began gentrifying the preparation to make it more suitable to polite company (or in the Hawaiian’s case– royalty). Some of the earliest preparations involved mashing the raw fish using the cook’s fingers. This way even the 
smallest bones could be detected and removed. Other ingredients are often added at this stage. Pink Hawaiian salt was probably one of the earliest additions, but sea urchin roe, kukui nuts and all sorts of limu (seaweed) soon followed. Eventually vegetables like tomatoes found their way into the mix and led the way for a modern condiment known here as lomilomi.
But there was another wave in the evolution of poke. As immigrants form Asia began arriving they began to bring their own influences and styles to this food. Fish was abundant in those days, making it an affordable choice for the working class Japanese and Chinese that arrived here. Most had come from a fishing culture to begin with and already had a culinary appreciation for raw seafood. They added their own seasonings like soy sauce and sesame oil and the version of poke we modern diners refer to as “traditional” was born.
Other cultures influenced the direction of modern day poke, too. There are raw fish dishes that are popular all over the world. Both Mexico and Tahiti feature preparations they call ceviche. They may contain wildly different ingredients but raw fish is the common element they both share. Escabeche is another raw fish common in Middle Eastern and Spanish cooking.
But it’s the current wave of “immigrants” that are having the most influence on poke and the bold new directions it is going. By the 1990s creative chefs began innovating traditional poke styles to appease the multi-cultural palates of tourists and locals alike. Chef’s and entrpreneurs like Sam Choy and Gene Egar hoped to bring the traditional tastes of the islands to a broader audience. Festivals and contests were developed to highlight poke and encourage as much creativity as possible.
I am presenting a trio of recipes that I hope represents all these directions. This trio would make a great appetizer served in small portions either individually or as a trifecta. But while I’m here I’m serving this trio of tastes as a main course. My friends and I will enjoy this wonderful meal on the terrace while watching the sun set.
Trio of Hawaiian Poke serves 4
CLICK on the following links for printable recipes of each version
Hawaiian Poke- Traditional Style Ahi
Hawaiian Poke- Wasabi Ono with Tobiko
Poisson Cru- Tahitian Style “Ceviche”
SERIOUS FUN FOOD
Greg Henry
Sippity Sup
The first image is absolutely gross,
and yet I’d take your fingers off if you came between me and the plate.
Stopped me in my tracks! You did.
LL
I can smell them all the way across the country!
Now that I found out they grow in Oregon, and near a winery I love- Lazy River, I would hitch hike all the way there just for that dish! The smell just will knock me off my feet, they are freakin’ orgasmic to me…have I said enough 🙂
Wow! You could almost get truffled out with all that truffle love! You are were some lucky folks with all those truffles and I bet the potatoes are incredible!
I’ve never cooked with truffles before, but jeez do they look luxurious and amazing. What a haul.
…but you knew the truffliest potatoes would make me swoon, right?
Oh to be a guest at that dinner party! How amazing. I am drooling just thinking about 13 courses of truffles! Thank you for sharing!
you definitely stopped me in my tracks, I’m jealous! I absolutely love truffles — what a gorgeous ( and pricey!) treat!
You’re so lucky! Just curious, how much did it cost to have a full platter of truffles. And what were the other 12 truffle course :^) Thanks for sharing with us.
I don’t want to steal all of Erika’s Thunder so head over to http://www.inerikaskitchen.com for all the details GREG
What an incredible event to be part of. The only way I have ever had truffles is with fois gras but this right here is incredible.
And I would totally trust your palete when you recommend it with potatoes.
I must go truffle & truffle salt hunting. Oh wait! That’s what pigs do! 🙂
Ciao, Devaki @ weavethousandflavors
The Trouble with Truffles? Wait, that was Trouble with Tribbles, never mind.
Did you buy that black truffle butter or is it just a simple compound butter that you made? Haven’t seen truffles at our market but will check Fresh Market and Earthfare.
Sounds like a fantastic meal though I have to admit I’m not as big a fan of truffles as everyone else seems to be.
That sounds like a foodie’s dream dinner invitation. Thanks for providing the links b/c I look forward to checking it out.
More is more. That’s how I feel about chocolate chip cookies.
I would probably feel that way about truffles except that I’ve never had any! I would love to taste this potato salad.
A way tooo many truffles on one plate 😉 What a delicious way to enjoy them with roasted potatoes 🙂
I posted about the Trufflepalooza today too! It’s a small truffled world.
Oh, Greg…I feel you on the truffle love. I have a bottle of truffle oil that I guard with my life. No kidding.
Did you hear about the pig in Europe who was sold for like a gazillion dollars because he was known to be an amazing truffle hunter? I wonder if the buyer ever got a return on his investment?
…with envy. Those truffles are absolutely incredible and what a dish this is. A truffle party sounds like something so decadent in the most wonderful way.
Man o’ man did it land in your lap or what — what a spectacular dish, a fantastic event, a glorious ingredient and any other superfluous things you want to interject.
OMG!!! A truffle party! sighhhh.. I have yet to taste these gorgeous babies.. the price tag has always been inhibitive. I wish I was in your shoes like right now!! :))
stop me in my tracks, indeed! I’m still sitting here with my mouth wide open!
ps I don’t like that your blog makes me do math (I get why but really? math? you’re mean! lol)
Why is it these sound even better when I read about them on YOUR blog?????
Thanks for coming to Trufflepalooza Greg — so glad you and all my other food blogger friends were there to share the truffle love. I’m already gathering ideas for next year’s menu.…
Oh you lucky dog…you got the recipe out of her. I wondered why she was being so secretive about it.
These are to die for! I took set one of the bowls out and as I was putting the toothpicks into them I think I ate 1 for everyone that was ‘picked.’
I have a bag of those little potatoes in the fridge and I was casting about in my mind for a idea for a way to use them for a picnic with friends at the beach tonight…and poof…here is the perfect idea. Lucky me, I even have truffle oil in the pantry.
Brilliant…Thanks as always!