It’s the dead of winter most places. But here in Hollywood, our Farmers Market is going strong. Sure, we may not have a lot of the same sorts of fresh produce we enjoy during the other three seasons. But just look around the Hollywood Farmers Market and you’ll see lots of seasonal things to love. Citrus, carrots, and fennel thrive here in the cooler months.
Catching my eye today was kale. Where I live kale is a great winter green. I love it in braises and I love it in soups. But for a brief time each winter a slightly different sort of kale shows itself.
Tuscan Kale
Maybe you’ve heard of it. It’s developing a bit of a cult status among chefs in the past decade or so. It has a more delicate leaf with a less fibrous stem than the curly stuff you may be used to seeing.
When I was at the market this morning I was attracted to it right away. It has a pebbly leaf and is dark greenish-blue. It’s an Italian variety that thankfully grows very well in our “Mediterranean” climate in Southern California. In a nod to its origins, it’s most commonly called Tuscan kale, but I have seen it referred to also as black kale, lacinato and dinosaur kale (presumably due to it’s reptilian, crenulated texture).
Tuscan kale has all the great qualities of its sturdier cousin. Most recipes suggest blanching the kale, then reheating it in olive oil or braising it further with a little stock. Which is a great way to go because typically kale is so chewy and so “green” tasting that it really requires a lot of wet heat to be perfectly palatable.
Not Tuscan kale. It has a terrific texture and a nutty taste that is great raw. So today I am bringing it to you raw and in a slaw. Tuscan Kale with Lemon, Parmesan & White Anchovies. It’s a nod to a Caesar salad with all the same flavors you would expect from that classic. I made my version a bit lighter by omitting the egg.
I got the idea from Melissa Clark who makes a very similar salad with raw kale. But I think it works better as a slaw so that the chewy texture of the Tuscan kale doesn’t become too large a chore. Besides, the best parts about slaws are their dressings. And this lemony, garlicky “light Caesar” dressing deserves a lot of attention. And like a traditional Caesar, I did not forget the anchovies. I used marinated white anchovy fillets. They are a bit milder than the tinned variety or salt-packed styles. They have a great slippery texture, which works well with the heft and crunch of the kale. They are well worth seeking out at specialty stores.
Lastly, I topped this slaw with the simplest of toasted breadcrumbs. In case you haven’t guessed I am a texture freak. I love salads with all sorts of textures. These breadcrumbs start out as slices toasted in the toaster, then torn into chunks and roughly processed in the food processor so that you can get a variety of sizes and shapes. They are the only part of this recipe that takes a bit of doing.
But I should note that this vegetable has a thin central rib that should be cut away in all but the most tender of leaves. It’s a simple process. Best handled with a small sharp knife run down either side of the rib. Throw the leaf portions into a bowl of cool water and rinse them well. Their nubbly nature leaves all sorts of nooks and crannies for grit or bugs to hide. Dry them well and slice the leaves into very thin ribbons. Can you say chiffonade?
Tuscan Kale with Lemon, Parmesan & White Anchovies serves 4 CLICK here for a printable recipe
1 bn Tuscan kale- 2 slices rustic sandwich bread, with crusts
- 1 clv garlic, peeled and chopped
- 1⁄4 c parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus more for garnish
- 1⁄4 c olive oil, plus more for garnish
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 1 t lemon zest
- 1⁄4 t kosher salt
- 1⁄4 t red pepper flakes (or to taste) optional
- 12 marinated white anchovy fillets
- lemon slices, optional
Trim bottom 2 inches off kale stems and discard. Remove the center ribs by running a small, sharp knife down either side of the rib of each leaf. Discard the rib and throw the leaf portions into a bowl of cool water and rinse them well. Their nubbly nature leaves all sorts of nooks and crannies for grit or bugs to hide. Dry them well and slice the leaves into very thin ribbons chiffonade style. You should have 4 to 5 cups. Place kale in a large bowl.
Toast the bread slices in a toaster until golden. Tear them into small pieces and pulse them in a food processor until mixture forms coarse crumbs in a variety of sizes and shapes.
Using a mortar and pestle to pound garlic into a paste. Add 1/4 cup cheese, 1/4 cup oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, salt, red pepper flakes and pound them together further. Spoon the dressing over kale and toss very well to thoroughly combine, it will be quite thick and will take a lot of tossing to coat leaves.
Let slaw sit for at least 5 minutes and up to overnight, then serve topped with bread crumbs, marinated anchovies, additional cheese, a drizzle of oil, and optional lemon slices.
SERIOUS FUN FOOD
Greg Henry
SippitySup
I made this Saturday night. I added about a half a bulb of thinly sliced fennel and made my own gluten-free breadcrumbs, but it was dee-licious! Don’t leave out the anchovies — they MAKE the dish.
This sounds great — I have a head in the vegetable drawer, begging to be turned into this lovely side dish!
We had this as a side to veal Marsala, it was the perfect side and oh so good.
Would this clash with a nice Bistecca alla Fiorentina?
Hi Greg — I have been craving cauliflower and this recipe sounds perfect!
LL
you know, i have cauliflower in my fridge at this very moment and was planning to make some sort of curry with it but nooowwwwww .…
I was thinking of making this dish. Like minds, like stomachs, I guess.
This sounds crazy good! I’m going to try it *with* the anchovies. I always put anchovies in my spaghetti sauce. Of course you can’t taste them there either, but it does add to the sauce.
Roasted cauliflowers are my absolute FAVE! So easy to whip up and devour. I’ve been seeing a ton of recipes with anchovies lately…it’s got my palate whet. If that makes sense. :-p
Some people have a hard time believing that anchovies don’t impart a fishy flavor to a dish. It’s a shame because it’s so good. You almost have to sneak it on people.
I was quick to bookmark this since you (might) know it has all my favorite ingredients. I only enjoy cauliflower when it’s roasted but I’ve never tried it with anchovies. I’ll be making this…and soon! Thank you, thank you!
I have so grown to love cauliflower & its many ways. Can’t stand hearing about your 80 degree weather though when we are lucky to hit 15 😉
It’s always great to find good recipes for cooking veggies and this one looks stellar! Will definitely give it a try.
Would Bette Midler’s character in Beaches without Barbara Hershey’s character. Doubtful. I find that many of the most intriguing ingredients are the Barbary Hershey ingredients–the ones that bring out the best in the starring ingredient. Anchovy, while rather upsetting alone, melts into the background and gives umami kisses to all it comes in contact with. Thank you, anchovies, for being strong enough (literally and figuratively) to play a supporting role. 🙂
Not too much, right? 😉 At any rate, this sounds amazing. Love the lemon/anchovy/cauliflower 1–2‑3 punch, Greg! I generally steam/saute cauliflower and then hit it with just a bit of cream and nutmeg, but I like the bold flavors you’ve brought to the table!
Greg: what a rich post (love Twain’s definition of cawliflower)! Being from Southern Italy, I have tasted this delicacy in different forms…thank you for the reminder to add anchovies and lemon juice. Sicilian cuisines is under-appreciated unfortunately. It is one of the most sophisticated ones in Italy (having so many cultural influences from all over the Mediterranean). I adore it. (BTW, I slow roasted some cawliflower over the week-end and it was like candy…you are so right to present this version)
I make mine with butter, olive oil, garlic, fennel seed and porchini mushroom powder. It’s like delicious, savory candy. Can’t get enough. Your version sounds divine as well!
Greg, in or out of vogue, adored or despised, cauliflower is one of my favorite vegetables. And, still, I hardly every make it! It gets forgotten somehow. Thank you for refreshing my memory with this zesty roasted version.
This looks wonderful Greg — giving it a try this week!
It’s nice and chilly where I live. This sounds like a great vegetable concoction.
Wasn’t George Bush talking about broccoli? Either way, he was dead wrong because I love them both. Either one under a great cheese sauce is heaven but I have a feeling my husband would so prefer it your way! He loves these flavors (one of his great comfort foods is spaghetti with anchovies, garlic and olive oil, the Italian way. Beautiful dish!
Art of the cauliflower — love the art reference and admire the research that you include in your posts. I’m all for a cheeseless gratin that looks this satisfying!
When I think of Sicilian, I always think of raisins. I wonder if they would work here?
Hi Greg — I love the look of this dish. Cauliflower is one of my favourite vegetables, and I love this treatment with the lemon and anchovies.
Thanks for stopping by my blog and your comment about the monkfish. I am generally quite particular about my fish choices, because of the diminishing seafood resources, but I didn’t know that about monkfish. Normally, when I can get it my preferred choice is wharehou which is a local New Zealand fish which is caught here according to a quota system we have here for managing our fish stocks. I’m not sure where the monkfish comes from when we get it here, but it is now definitely off my list — thanks for the info.
Sue 🙂
I adore roasted cauliflower! I can just imagine all of those flavors together and how your house must have smelled once it came of out the oven — pure heaven! Thank you for sharing!!
“I look to its roots for inspiration.” So simple, but so smart!
This is my favorite way to eat cauliflower and if you mix it with pasta, it’s even better!!
It looks wonderful! If I wasn’t making a cauliflower gratain tomorrow I would make this. Dr. Food is such a baby and picked a recipe he has his heart set on. pffffft. I love anchovies so this recipe looks right up my alley.
Gonna give this a go! Without the anchovies though. Is that a crime?
… but it is a shame. Why not try half the anchovies. It’s kinda like certain stewed greens or baked bean recipes. You could leave the pork out, but since you don’t really taste it and you just notice the way it pulls the flavors together, there is no reason to leave it out. Anchovies work similarly. But I do understand that some people have a dislike for anchovies. GREG
I love cauliflower mixed with other vegetables and stir fried.
…and we love cauliflower and anchovies. Mental note: Try soon!
That looks fabulous! Nuff said.
I love cauliflower. I love it mashed like a potato, (or potatoe if you are Bush‘s old VP) in fritters, baked, au gratin, and many other ways. I contend that if you don‘t cook the crap out of it, it will always be a great dish!
You know my love for cauliflower…I sneak it in everywhere. This sounds like a great side dish.