Manadrinquat Marmalade. I found out I don’t know squat about quats!
I mean I know kumquats. I am quite familiar with loquats. Ditto limequats, and orangequats. I have even eaten dishes prepared with the least quatly named of the quats the calamondin.
But I gotta admit I never even heard of the quat I quaffed recently from the Hollywood Farmers Market. It’s called a mandarinquat, and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that this little fruit is a cross between a kumquat and a mandarin. And I didn’t need to be a genius to decide to choose these as the subject for my weekly Market Matters post. After all, it’s citrus season, and I mean look at these little beauties! They’ve got Sup! written all over them.
The farmer who grew them said, they are best eaten raw– simply popped in your mouth like a kumquat. He said they were sweeter than a kumquat, with the same yummy skin as a kumquat. Sounded pretty good to me. So I left the market with a couple of pounds, quite pleased to suggest to all of you to do just that.
But when I got home I encountered some unforseen circumstances. Namely they don’t really pop in your mouth all that easily. That’s because they are bigger than a kumquat. Too big to eat in one bite, even for a big mouth like me. So you gotta bite ’em in half. But you see, they are quite juicy so I got an eyeful of that sweetly acidic squirt. It hurt…
The next issue (for me) is seeds. It is quite a seedy little citrus. So I found myself covering my eye with one hand, and spitting seeds into the other– which is not only comical, it made actually tasting the fruit next to impossible. So I had just eaten my very first mandarinquat of my not so you life, and I had no idea what it even tasted like. This is not the makings of culinary nirvana in my mind.
So I moved on to the second mandarinquat of my not so young life almost immediately. This time I wised up. I took it to the kitchen and cut it in half. Then I picked all the seeds out and (finally) popped (one-half) a mandarinquat in my mouth.
And it was good. Quite good… but not as good as a kumquat. That certain herbal quality that I love in kumquats was replaced with a rather bland sort of sweetness that was rather ordinary tasting. It sorta reminded me of a mandarin… but not as good. Besides, these things are so pectin filled that they verge on slimy. I did not really like eating them raw.
So much for my planned post about just popping them in your mouth. That plan was down the drain. It was time to plan a new plan!
The obvious problem was what to do with these little fruits. They are so darn pretty. I think I should try and choose something that highlights their gorgeous orangey red color. But they also have a certain sweet and sour quality that reminds me of something. What is that something?? It’s something with a bitter edge that’s cloaked in super sweet Sunday go to meetin’ clothes.
As I was wiping the last of the pectin induced miry mess from my lips– it hit me. The key to my problem lies in the pectin. I should make a jam or a jelly. Better yet a marmalade! Because marmalade is exactly what these fruits taste like anyway!
Manadrinquat Marmalade
Well, I couldn’t make just any marmalade. I decided to make a fancy marmalade! I ran out and plucked a Meyer Lemon from the tree behind the pool. I wanted to bring some of the more complex citrus flavor I felt was missing in the mandarinquat when I popped it in my mouth all by itself. Speaking of complexity I also decided to add a bit of cinnamon to layer an exotic note into this jam, err I mean marmalade. So today I am presenting you with Mandarinquat & Meyer Lemon Marmalade with Cinnamon. I think I invented it! Try googling… and while you are googling, there is no need to double-check the word quaff. I am well aware of its actual meaning, so just let it go and allow me some literary license.
Mandarinquat & Meyer Lemon Marmalade with Cinnamon makes 1 quart CLICK here for a printable recipe
- 1 1â„2 lb mandarinquats, washed & dried
- 1 meyer lemon, washed & dried
- 1 q water
- 4 1‑inch pieces of cinnamon stick
- 3 c sugar
Working over a bowl cut all the fruit in half and remove the seeds. Then slice the mandarinequats, peels and all into 1/4‑inch strips allowing the peels, pulp, and juice to collect in the bowl. Repeat the process with the Meyer lemon, but slice its strips at 1/8‑inch. Discard all seeds.
Bring fruit, peels, juice, water and cinnamon sticks to a boil in a large saucepan. Cook for 5 minutes. Turn off heat, cover, and let cool. Refrigerate overnight.
The next day uncover the citrus mixture, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until thickest peel is tender, about 20 minutes. Add sugar and bring mixture to a boil, stirring often. Cook until it registers 220 degrees on a candy thermometer, about 20 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool about 15 minutes then transfer the marmalade to an airtight container. Remove the cinnamon sticks pieces and cover, letting it come to completely cool at room temperature. Refrigerate overnight before serving. Marmalade will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 month.
SERIOUS FUN FOOD
Greg Henry
SippitySup
Another star post Greg. I love your passion, vision, and your desire to execute the old time recipe. I think it would be smashing if you did it the old fashioned way with the copper mixing bowl for the egg whites.
Greg, I love the story of Romanoff’s and so glad to know who to attribute the “seated in Siberia” to. The old pictures and the story of the food was great fun. I can remember desserts prepared table side — everything felt so elegant then. Look how everyone was dressed to the nines.
I’ve never attempted a chocolate souffle, but I know when you’re in Panama you will carry it off with great style and panache.
Sam
Such a great story and LOVED the photo’s. I especially loved the one of Sophia Loren and Jane Manesfield. You have the most amazing blog in the whole blosisphere!! Can’t stop reading you. Happy Holidays my friend.
Loved the background in this story…and those pics. Oh the glamour of old Hollywood! Make this souffle in January please. 🙂
Always wonderful to hear about the history behind a restaurant and/or a recipe! And yum, that souffle. Looks gorgeous.
I definitely need to try more souffles. I will have a lot of egg whites soon to use up, so I may give this a go.
I had my first at taste of LA years ago. It’s the only thing I remember eating. Making this has been on my white board for months. And, now that my standing mixer with a 450 watt motor arrived TODAY, I can go for it.
Cool story! And the chocolate souffle is fabulous!
Fabulous story. I love it. Also love that classic picture of Sophie Loren staring at Jayne Mansfield’s chest (that’s her, right?). Great story leading to a great dessert; I have been dying to make a chocolate soufflé but sadly never have. Yours looks simply luscious!
I definitely have to try this recipe. Also, the women in the photo are Sophia Loren and Jayne Mansfield
What a fun read about a different era. I’d love to have been a fly on the wall and watched al the action, but even better would have been to sampled the amazing food in person. I’ve never made a chocolate soufflé, but for some reason I now have a craving! Thanks for sharing.
I loved the story…wonderfully told with great photos… Loved your post, and good luck in Panama!
I hope that you and your friend have an amazing time in Panama. I have never made a souffle believe it or not! I’ll trade you some macaron lessons for a souffle lesson!
I don’t know if I’ve ever actually eaten a proper chocolate souffle, let alone made one. I suspect that I’ve just eaten desserts that thought they were souffles but, in fact, were nothing of the sort. It seems that I make just have to try making this sometime (need any company in Panama, perchance?)
I had a chocolate souffle once for my birthday. it was probably the best dessert I’ve ever had. Then again it was at Morton’s so that explained a lot. I’ve been wanting to try to make my own for suck a long time. i was so close ot make some a few weeks ago. Maybe for new years I will.
I’ve never made one, just from the kitchen urban legends of messing them up. Maybe one day I’ll try.
That first black and white photo is amazing. The unabashed beauty of the blond woman and the disapproving cleavage glare of her “friend”. The ghost of an elegance and time long forgot. So many things going on in that picture. I’d love to get a print of that. Any clue as to it’s origin?