
I read someplace that there are more oyster places on Tomales Bay than there are gas stations. I don’t know if that’s true or not, and I didn’t come to Tomales Bay to count gas stations. I came for grilled oysters, so (to be safe) I filled the tank in Petaluma. I even peed in Petaluma so I wouldn’t have to be on the lookout for a gas station for its other great purpose. I came for oysters straight from the cool clean waters of Tomales Bay. I knew I didn’t want to be distracted by any superfluous activities.
When it comes to oysters, I’ve always considered myself a purist. I like raw and flawless. If I’m lucky enough to get them straight out of the water (as you do in Tomales Bay) then I don’t even bother with mignonette sauce. Raw oysters served that fresh, have always been the height of my oyster obsession. I’ve certainly enjoyed fried oysters in my po’ boys and the creamy oyster stew from Antoine’s in New Orleans’ French Quarter. Both are classic preparations that I’ve even tried to recreate at home. But to me “cooked” oysters– like barbecued, grilled or even baked– were always a second choice. Something inlanders had to settle for because they couldn’t always get quality oysters.
In other words, for most of my life, I’ve been an oyster snob. Then some years ago I read a quote from James Beard: “Many gourmets, or so-called gourmets, tell you that to eat an oyster in any fashion except directly from the shell is to show ignorance of gastronomic tradition and the rules of good taste. This is nonsense.”
Nonsense? Really?
Grilled Oysters
Yes really. In Tomales Bay, grilled oysters are a local specialty. A specialty they take seriously. All of the oyster shacks that line the bay do some version of grilled oysters – and they always have. I bet even the gas stations might be able to serve up a pretty good version. Because the oysters in Tomales Bay are that good.
You’ll find grilled oysters in Tomales Bay at a lot of places. Some are well-known like Hog Island Oysters and Tomales Bay Oyster Company. Others are smaller and perched less conspicuously at the end of rickety looking piers such as Boat Shack at Nick’s Cove. My particular favorite is The Marshall Store. They have several choices of grilled oysters to try including BBQ, Bacon and Worcestershire, Rockefeller, and Chorizo Butter.
It’s hard to choose a favorite, so I won’t, but I do like the Grilled Oysters with Chorizo Butter. The spiced butter smooths out the oysters’ sharp brininess and the chorizo offers a hint of sweet smoke.
Since I can’t always make the 8‑hour drive to Tomales Bay, I’ve attempted my own version of Grilled Oysters with Chorizo Butter. Let me stress that this is not the same recipe as you’ll get at The Marshall Store. I suspect they use Mexican chorizo. Spanish-style, cured chorizo works too and I find it easier to work with– so that’s where I started with this recipe.
My version of Grilled Oysters with Chorizo Butter is delicious, but there’s nothing quite like an oyster roadtrip. Going to the source reminds us to appreciate our oceans and to take care of them so that they can continue to provide the tasty tidbits I love so much. Of course, going to the source also means you’ll be enjoying the freshest, most delicious oysters imaginable.
Ken and I recently set out for the Mendocino coast. A stop at The Marshall Store was a high priority of our roadtrip. Whether you’re coming from the north or the south, the only way to get to Tomales Bay is along California’s iconic coastal drive – curvy Highway 1. It’s easy to work up an appetite while navigating the white-knuckle, hairpin turns and taking in the ocean vistas, lush meadows, pungent eucalyptus groves, and awe-inspiring redwood forests. GREG
I received compensation in order to bring information to this blog about visiting the California coast. All opinions are my own.
Beautiful shots! I’ve been trying to make it to Point Reyes for years, including Tomoles. Now it’s looking even more tempting.
Stumbled this, what a great recipe to liven up those oysters. I used to eat them all the time in Florida but kind of lost my taste for them after “an incident” involving a stunt at a party we were having. The chorizo butter is genius!
AS you know from my posts, I love oysters in many forms, and grilled is one. I’m glad James Beard was able to help you see the light that cooked oysters can be good. I like the chorizo butter idea, but if they use Mixican style chorizo, it is raw… right? How do you think that would work, as I can’t eat the cured variety?
In their version the chorizo seems to be precooked before mixing it with the butter. They probably saute it and drain it before cooling and mixing it with butter. GREG
Thanks, Greg. I will give that a try.
Raw oysters are the best, but I do admit a weakness for fried oysters. Can’t get enough of them! Never tried them grilled — sounds like a wonderful idea. Thanks!
I popped into The Marshall Store for BBQ oysters just a few weeks ago on my way back to Washington. It was my first visit and I loved it. The oysters were terrific. 🙂
I adore fresh Oysters! They are hard to find here in the Sonoran desert though 🙁 I’ll have to keep my eye out for some good ones. Is it Oyster season then?
Oh, boy, do these look terrific—and so flavorful. I remember visiting my parents in Scotland and my dad slurping oysters off a boat near where we were to catch a ferry. I think I’d prefer yours!
Wow…what an awesome trip! I’ve never heard of Tomales Bay, but now I need to figure out how to get there. We had grilled oysters in New Orleans several years back, and they were incredible. Absolutely my favorite way to eat oysters! And the chorizo butter? Holy deliciousness, Batman!
I guess I would fit your definition of an oyster snob, I like them raw without any kind of sauce. My husband is always looking for something new to grill, maybe oysters would fit the bill? Thanks as always for expanding my culinary horizons!
I think you will like ’em grilled too. GREG
Our next progressive dinner is all about New England and I’m having the gang over for the main course! I love the grilled oysters and plan to add it to my seafood bake table (we’ll eat outside, with the table covered in newspaper and seafood piled in the centre)! Can’t wait to share this delicious take on oysters!!!
We’ve been to Antoine’s too, it was an amazing experience!
Sounds so fun! GREG
Sooooooo sexy!
Chorizo butter! It’s delicious just to read it! Such beautiful pictures, Greg. As always.
I love oysters, I heard some rumors that Hog Island Oysters are closing because of some environmental problems with the costal commission. Please tell me it isn’t true because I love their oysters. I will try your recipe for sure,
You may be thinking of Drakes Bay Oyster Company and I believe they did close. Their lease with the National Park Service over the estuary at Point Reyes National Seashore was up and the estuary will be returned to its natural state. The lease holders and the community at Point Reyes fought hard to keep the oyster farm open. I’m not all that familiar with the details, but it seems going in the company knew the lease would end. I guess they hoped for an extension. GREG
As you probably know from your days in the south, Southerners don’t typically get fancy with mignonette sauce for their oysters. Just give us some saltines, a slice of lemon, and some cocktail sauce. However, I love oysters just about any way you serve them. I’m living vicariously through you in this post, knowing that in a few short weeks, I’ll be making that same trek and stopping at The Marshall Store for some grilled oysters with chorizo butter! Have a great trip!!
Ok, I’m not big on oysters, but these I might eat til I pop!
I LOVE oysters raw, but with a mignonette sauce! Now I will have some different ways to enjoy them!!