My first impression of the new cookbook Dinner: Changing The Game by Melissa Clark is that it might be an aggressive example of what marketing geniuses call “on-trend”. Caramelized Brussels Sprouts, check. Crunchy Chickpeas, check. Labneh, check. Harrisa, tamarind, and za’atar, but of course. Do you love Sichuan, Thai, and Middle-Eastern? Well, all the current darlings of the culinary globe are colorfully represented. There’s even a whole chapter dedicated to topping some yummy something with an egg. Oh and just in case this book should lose some of its market share to Molly Gilbert – they expertly chose to put a sheet pan supper right on the cover.
But this book cannot simply be dismissed as another timely collaboration between a great cook and the marketing geniuses attached to her apron strings. Because the truth is Melissa Clark has an uncanny grasp of what people want in the moment – and she always has. Unlike many writers who might choose to put both seitan and newly chic butcher cuts of steak in their books because they think they’re supposed to, Clark actually gets the rhythm of how people eat these days. More importantly, she knows how cooks want to spend their time in the kitchen. This means Dinner: Changing The Game is a cookbook you’ll want to take seriously.
Dinner: Changing The Game by Melissa Clark
There are more than 200 recipes in Dinner and none of them are fluff. This isn’t to say you won’t have to put some effort into finding just what it is you want for “dinner”. It’s easy to get distracted by all the choices and all the differing styles. I decided to spend some time with the book before I committed to a direction for this post.
The sausage recipes in this book (there are nine) immediately caught my eye. But as I flipped through the pages I began to get excited by a chicken dish loaded up with all the flavors of your favorite take-out pizza. Now that sounds creative! Of course, I’ve also been looking for an approachable Sichuan recipe to get an introduction to bold flavor combinations. I found a Crispy Salt & Pepper Pork with Sichuan Peppercorns on page 85 that fits the bill.
As I said the choices in this book are very diverse and appealing. But are they too diverse and too appealing? Hmmm…
Sometimes when I’m feeling overwhelmed I find it best to motivate myself with a real-world application. So, in the case of this cookbook, I decided to have a real-world dinner for eight. What better way to put this book to the test?
It’s been unseasonably warm in Los Angeles and a casual outdoor event seemed a logical choice. After all, the first al fresco dinner party of the season is always a festive occasion. With my parameters set, I found it much easier to navigate the book. The weather seems to suit a Mediterranean menu, so I put my focus onto recipes with a Middle-Eastern flair. Besides, I’ve been diddling with an extra jazzy za’atar mix and this menu seems like a good time to unveil it.
“Each recipe in Dinner is meant to be dinner—one fantastic dish that is so satisfying and flavor-forward it can stand alone—or be paired with a simple salad or fresh bread on the side. This is what Melissa Clark means by changing the game.”
That’s a quote from the publisher, so you know it’s true. I, however, found the range of choices well-suited to a larger event of family-style passed plates and had no trouble choosing three compatible recipes to suit the tastes of my guests. I figured whether they filled their plates with just one choice or went all-in—this would be a Dinner worth sharing with friends. GREG
Horta Salad with Feta and Olives and Pomegranate Quinoa with Crunchy Chickpeas
Za’atar Chicken with Lemon Yogurt (Adapted for Skewers)
I was sent a review copy of Dinner: Changing The Game by Melissa Clark. All opinions are my own. Also, I never heard back from the publicist about sharing recipes. So out of an abundance of caution, the only recipe I’m passing along today is my own recipe for the Za’atar I used in the chicken marinade.
Ingredients
- ½ cup dried thyme
- ½ cup toasted unhulled sesame seeds
- ¼ cup ground sumac
- 2 tablespoon dried marjoram
- 2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon ground anise
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon ground cumin
Directions
Stir all ingredients together. Seal and store up to 3 months.
Save
This is great!
What a wonderful menu for a dinner party, it’s 8 am and I’m licking my lips as I look at your gorgeous pics. What lucky dinner guests. Since there are only two of us, a sheet pan dish is only worth it when we have company, having only two small pieces on the pan seems a little sad.
I have not gotten into za’atar as the rest of the world, but then again I have only tried a store bought version (a gift) but I am excited to try your beautiful recipe.
Hmm…am wondering what makes it jazzed up. Is it the inclusion of anise, cinnamon and cumin? Don’t recall those in za’atar, but it sounds great!
I like your recipe Greg! Food is a really crowded space these days. Enjoy~ Bijouxs
I do love her, but am fascinated by that recipe for za’atar. I have never seen a recipe with that many ingredients! Do you suppose this is her take, or does she offer that it is authentic to some cuisine or other? So curious am I!
The za’atar recipe is my own“jazzed up” version. Clark did not include a recipe for za’atar in the book (as far as I know) but she did call for the ingredient in several recipes. I figure za’atar is like curry, there are a million possibilities. GREG
Melissa Clark does know her stuff — always enjoy reading her in the NYT. Haven’t looked at her new book yet, but it sounds like a winner.
This does sound like a jazzed up za’atar and Melissa’s book sounds fabulous to me! I love a variety things to choose from and this sounds like a book to add to my collection. Thanks for that!
I wish I’d been one of your dinner guests! This sounds like a fabulous cookbook.
I have a lot of recipes saved from Melissa Clark of the New York Times. This cookbook looks interesting, oh no another cookbook.
Interesting! I’ve never heard of her. Everything sounds good, though, I’ll have to take a peek at Amazon.
Interesting! This book is on my list. I made Melissa’s Apple Buttermilk Loaf Cake recipe (a book launch promo) a few weeks ago and must say it was quite good! Looking forward to trying more recipes from the book. Thanks!
Melissa never fails to stimulate me to try something new in the kitchen. I look forward to her column most Wednesdays in the NYT — and now, it seems, I need yet another cookbook…