Market Matters- Grilled Peaches with Bellini Zabaglione

28 Jun 2009
Posted by Greg Henry
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fresh summer peachesI don’t know how to break this to Georgia, the supposed peach tree state. And to my friends in Bedford, NY that think New York peaches are “all that” – they are going to be devastated!

But California ranks first in the U.S. in the production of peaches, producing 71% of the total U.S. crop. We produce nearly 100% of the peaches destined for the can, and an impressive 50% of the fresh market peaches. These facts are facts. And from these facts we can deduce that California must grow some pretty damn good peaches. Case closed.

Peaches are at the very height of perfection right now in California, so I ran down the hill to the Hollywood Farmers Market and picked a peck of them for this week’s Market Matters post.

egg yolks in double boilerDid you know…?

During World War I, peach pits were gathered, ground and then used as filters in gas masks.

Peaches were brought to California by Russian immigrants and soon became well established during the gold rush when settlers began growing and preserving them for commercial sale to miners.

The peach belongs to the rose family.

China is the original home of the peach tree.

There are two categories of peach, Clingstone and Freestone, distinguished by the ease with which the edible area pulls away from the stone (pit).

sabayon in an ice bathThere are over 200 varieties of peaches, each with their own specific harvest time, flavor and color characteristics.

I realize you are probably thinking, “cut to the chase, Greg, all this qualifies as useless information”. But as I have said before, I think useless information is very useful. It comes in handy at dinner parties, business lunches, and trips to the grocery store, the dog park, and even the dentist’s office. Anywhere you have an audience that thinks it might be rude to interrupt you.

But the simple, useful truth about peaches is they are delicious.

Speaking of simple. I am going to pair these simply delicious peaches with perhaps the simplest of all desserts. But don’t confuse simple with boring. Because I am making delightful, delicate Italian treat known as zabaglione.

whipped creamBut you may know it as sabayon, zabaione, zabajone, sambayón, sabajón, or ponche de crema. Even that classic Christmas concoction known as eggnog is not too far off the original zabaglione (not the kind in the carton, though...).

No one really knows where zabaglione originated. Some credit San Bajon, a 16th-century monk from Turin, with the dessert’s invention and name. Others believe the Venetians or the Medici family in Florence came up with it.

Technically, a zabaglione is a caudle, a hot, wine-fortified drink made as a healing draught for a sick person. The noun later morphed into the verb “to coddle,” meaning “to treat with extreme or excessive care or kindness.” In it’s chilled form it starts to become very “pudding-like”.

The basic recipe is simple to memorize. It’s a 1:1:2 ratio of egg yolks, sugar, and wine. Then the mixture is lifted and lightened through the incorporation of an airy, whipped substance. Traditionally egg whites, but more commonly these days, cream.

Marsala is the traditional wine to use in this dessert. But Sup’s! going to mix it up and use prosecco and a bit of peach juice.

Prosecco and Peach. What’s that remind me of?

Ah, yes. A Bellini Cocktail.  Which according to Wikipedia “was invented sometime between 1934 and 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry's Bar in Venice, Italy. “ It started as a seasonal specialty of the bar, so I think it’s the perfect inspiration for this very seasonal peach dessert. Grilled Peaches with Bellini Zabaglione.

5 large egg yolks
1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp sugar
1/4 cup honey
1/3 cup Prosecco
2 tbsp peach juice or nectar
3/4 cup heavy cream, chilled
2 freestone peaches, halved and pitted
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted


Heat grill or grill pan. Prepare an ice bath; set aside. Make the zabaglione: Combine yolks,1/4  sugar, honey, Prosecco, and peach juice in a large metal or heat proof glass bowl.

Set the bowl over a large pan of simmering water. Whisk constantly until the mixture is very frothy, thick and has expanded in volume, about 10 minutes. Place bowl in ice bath; let cool completely.

Place cream in a large bowl, and beat until stiff peaks form. Fold whipped cream into egg-yolk mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, and place in refrigerator at least 20 minutes.

Line grill or pan with heavy-duty foil. Brush peaches with butter; sprinkle with the remaining 1 tbsp sugar. Grill cut side down until peaches are tender and sugar is caramelized, 6 to 7 minutes. Divide sabayon among four dishes, and top each with a peach half. Serve.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup



I adapted this recipe from Martha Stewart Living
 

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I am a southern girl and

I am a southern girl and always loved peaches swimming in a homemade peach cobbler.. mmm with brownsugar crumble on top and loads of butter too. MMMMM always had to add milk or heavy cream to make it delicious and cool it off enough to eat right then. MMMm Great memory of childhood. I don't have very many of those.

Posted by Gwen (not verified) | Jul 9th, 2009 at 2:06 pm | Reply

This looks perfect!

Wow Greg. This looks amazing! I love simple desserts that highlight seasonal fruit and this is perfect. I will definitely give this a try when peaches make their way to the North Oregon Coast. About a month away from our season. Thank you once again for your great posts. Now I'm off to figure out stumble upon. (finally got some time to set down!)

Posted by Dana Zia (not verified) | Jun 30th, 2009 at 7:04 pm | Reply

You had me at Prosecco...

and I am a Peach! Born in Smyrna, GA yallllllllllll.

Side Note: Your CAPTCHA spam filter TOTALLY got me. I incorrectly answered
1 + 0 = ? Apparently, the answer is not 2.
Crap now it is harder 7 + 5 =?

Posted by Culinary Sherpas (not verified) | Jun 30th, 2009 at 11:30 am | Reply

there is nothing more

there is nothing more delicious and simple than grilled peaches.

i love your twist.

i mean, can any recipe go wrong with heavy cream and pressco?

:)

Posted by Reginald @ Ceramic Canvas (not verified) | Jun 30th, 2009 at 6:59 am | Reply

Actually, I loved all of the

Actually, I loved all of the trivia. Very interesting. As someone told my mom once after I spent a half hour talking about Northern Renaissance Painting at her office party "Her education really comes in handy at cocktail parties".

This dessert is AMAZING!! It so reminds me of Italy and we drank Prosecco all summer long there so your change is perfect. Wow! I know someone who is going to really love this!

Posted by Jamie (not verified) | Jun 29th, 2009 at 12:52 pm | Reply

I love California peaches.

I love California peaches. YUM. Fruit desserts are perfect for the summer.

Posted by Wendy (not verified) | Jun 29th, 2009 at 11:54 am | Reply

nice bellini twist

I just enjoyed a bellini for brunch on Saturday for the first time in awhile. So, with that lovely flavor still in mind, your zabaglione looks fantastic!

Posted by lisaiscooking (not verified) | Jun 29th, 2009 at 9:52 am | Reply

How Sneaky of you

to incorporate Harry's signature drink into a dessert dish. Isn't that place also credited with the origination of beef carpaccio? I understand it is a cool spot to visit but uber expensive.

Posted by Nick | Jun 29th, 2009 at 9:16 am | Reply

This looks fabulous!

(I do believe I might be drooling.)

+Jessie

Posted by The Hungry Mouse (not verified) | Jun 29th, 2009 at 8:06 am | Reply

A perfect summer dessert! I

A perfect summer dessert! I love the idea of this zabaglione with Prosecco and peach juice!

Posted by Natasha - 5 Star Foodie (not verified) | Jun 28th, 2009 at 8:05 pm | Reply

Peaches come from a can:

They were put there by a man in a factory downtown. Millions of peaches. I'm a little sad that I don't have access to fresh peaches like you do. I truly enjoy them and I would love to try your recipe!

Eric

Posted by Eric (not verified) | Jun 28th, 2009 at 4:54 pm | Reply

Zabaglione is one of my

Zabaglione is one of my favorite desserts. I also love Bellinis. Great combo!

Posted by Shari (not verified) | Jun 28th, 2009 at 2:17 pm | Reply

I love this!

Hey, I am all about this useless info, loved the background story. My mother-in-law and I got tipsy making zabaglione at Christmas, and I am not sure if we made it stronger than normal, but phew, I had to sit down. I love the prosecco substitute, this sounds like such a lively sophisticated grown up dessert. Drat, now I will have to have a dinner party to make this. I only say drat because I have to find the time.

Posted by OysterCulture (not verified) | Jun 28th, 2009 at 1:59 pm | Reply

I love how the peach is just

I love how the peach is just swimming in the zabaglione. That's actually the first time I head of zabaglione. These are perfect for a lazy afternoon. See I learn something new every time I read your posts. Love it!

Posted by Jenn (not verified) | Jun 28th, 2009 at 1:58 pm | Reply

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