Judi's Bistro- Twice Baked Potatoes

09 May 2010
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twice baked potato

Happy Mother's Day to all you mothers, and all you sons and daughters too. Because Mother's Day is a day to honor our mothers, sure– but it's also a time for all us sons and daughters to pause and reflect. So that's what I have for you today, culinary reflections on my mother. In fact, starting today I have 7 posts in a row. A week's worth of reflections and recipes from my mother: Judi Jo Ann Bond Henry.

The 1970’s were when my own awareness of food began to develop. My mother was a fantastic cook. She probably learned most of her skills during this same period and I’d bet that Julia Child, Simone Beck and the whole Mastering the Art of French Cooking craze were her primary sources of inspiration.

While other kids were scarfing down “Tuna Twist”, “Mug-O-Lunch” and “Shake-A-Puddin”, my mom was serving us Bouillabaisse, Duck a la Orange, and Mousse de Foies de Volaille. She even taught my little brother and me how to make perfect little crêpes so that she could have 2 or 3 pans going at once for her famous dinner parties!

I recall bringing celeriac rémoulade to school in my lunch box. I knew the difference between a béarnaise and a hollandaise. We did not eat meat cooked beyond medium-rare (even pork) ever! So in many ways, you see, these are my comfort foods.

making Twice Baked PotatoesBut my mother could also be a bit of a Pop-Princess. She dressed like Mary Richards (she and Mary had the same figure). She rocked to the Eagles, Elton John and Queen. To my pre-pubescent horror, my mother wore bikinis (other mothers did not wear bikinis)!

She was “with-it” in other ways too, even when it came to food. High trends (sake, sushi, fondue, Cuisinart) and even low trends (Jell-O salad, smiley face cookies, crunchy tacos, the Joe Namath popcorn popper) none escaped my mothers attention and curiosity. Hence we kids were exposed to all of this as well. Yes even sake!

So, needless to say the popularity of that big, cheesy, 1/2 pound, twice baked, piping hot, crunchy topped, Idaho potato was not missed at the Henry house. In fact it became a staple.

I remember my mother saying that they were a lot of work. She said it like it was a chore far exceeding her talents in the kitchen. But we knew better, ‘cuz she always said it with a twinkle in her eye. And like so many cooks before her, be it a cheese soufflé or grilled cheese with tomato soup, ultimately my mother cooked to please people. So it was that the Twice Baked Potato became that culinary specialty always requested by all three of my mother’s children when she asked “…and what would you like for your Birthday dinner?”.

screen grab for Potato Boats video on Sippity SupI actually tear up thinking about it now, because sadly my mother passed away far too young in 1993. But that damn potato lives on in my mind and in my heart.

Over the years I’ve hipped it up some. I have taken my mothers recipe and made it fit into my life, how I eat and how I entertain!  I have a video I made last year highlighting my updated version of this great classic. It didn’t take a genius to figure it out either. I instinctively knew how to make it lighter, more sophisticated and even a bit of fun. But I never, ever let it lose sight of its roots.  Something so right can be tweaked, but it cannot stray too far from its soul! Just like the son who remembers his mother and her kitchen in 1970’s. Click here for a printable recipe of my appetizer-sized version with truffle oil, or click on the screen grab above to watch the video.

Judi's Bistro recipes from my motherBut today, in honor of my mother I have her version. This is the version she called "fancy", which meant it showed itself at dinner parties and major holidays. But click here if you want to see her "kid's version" which uses cheddar instead of Gruyere and has a lot of bacon in it too. I know all of this because after my mother died my (wonderfully smart) brother took it upon himself to collect as many of my mother's recipes as he could and put them together in a cookbook he called Judi's Bistro. So thanks to him both versions of her Twice Baked Potato recipe have been saved. All these years later it's a blessing to have such a book. And it's from this book that I will be bringing you seven days in a row of my mother's recipes. Happy Mother's Day mom.

Julia Child once said “I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then I just ate.” My mother turned 32 in 1972, we moved to Farmington Hills, MI about the same time. My mother got a big suburban version of a French kitchen. We had bentwood bistro chairs in apple green; there was a Parisian Boulangerie print paper on the walls. There was even a wood-burning oven (on top of state of the art gas and electric appliances in a deep coppery brown).

My views on the world, our family, even my own self began to develop during these years, through a particular point of view, heavily influenced by my mother. It wasn’t always easy…whose youth really is? But that point of view, that particular point of view always included family, friends and food.

I don’t know when Julia turned 32, or even when she may have made that particular comment I mentioned earlier. But in my mind it will forever tie my mother and Julia Child together in a way that makes me both proud and grateful. (watch video)

My Mom's Twice Baked Potato Boats (Fancy Version) Serves 8 CLICK here for a printable recipe

  • 4 large baking potatoes
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 1 c gruyere chese, grated
  • salt and white pepper to taste
  • ground nutmeg, to taste
  • 8 oz sour cream, plus more if needed
  • 2 T chives, minced

Potato BoatsWash and Dry the Potatoes, then prick with a fork in a couple of places. Place them on the center rack of a 375 degree F oven. Bake for 30-40 mins, until done.

Cut each potato in half and scoop out pulp into a bowl, taking care not to break the skins. You’ll have 8 “boats”. Mash the potatoes and beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Beat in the remaining ingredients. Add in the additional 2 oz of sour cream if necessary to make them fluffy. Add salt and white pepper to taste.

Using a spoon, fill the potatoes to level. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large tip with the remaining potato mixture. Swirl the remaining potato mix onto each “boat” in a decorative manner.

To serve: Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. bake the boats about 25 minutes until heated through and golden brown on top. Serve warm.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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Beautiful Post + Memories

What a beautiful post. I've recently started to go through my grandmothers recipe box. My family memories are of course tied to the food I ate, so reading these recipes written in my grandmothers beautiful handwriting brings back so many memories. Thanks for sharing yours.

Jessie Bea (not verified) | Jun 23rd, 2011 at 11:49 am | Reply

Success!

My family and I enjoyed this recipe, it turned out great. And I loved the idea of designing the filling!

Anina banana (not verified) | Mar 29th, 2011 at 7:47 pm | Reply

This is just lovely, Greg. A

This is just lovely, Greg. A beautiful tribute and the cookbook is a wonderful way to remember your mom. I must say you were lucky! I was one of those kids eating Hamburger Helper and Shake-a-Puddin! Your house sounds like it was mighty tasty and very special indeed. Great cheesy potato, both versions!

Jamie (not verified) | May 19th, 2010 at 6:36 am | Reply

What a beautiful way to pay

What a beautiful way to pay tribute to your mother. I hope that my children will look back on my cooking the way you do on your mom's. I would be proud of that kind of legacy. I'm looking forward to getting caught up on this series! See you Friday!

Fuji Mama (not verified) | May 12th, 2010 at 4:02 pm | Reply

A lovely Mother's Day Tribute

Thank you so much for sharing your memories of your mother and her most beloved recipes! From these, we get a hint of a lovely and well-loved person and your undoubtedly delicious childhood!

Tangled Noodle (not verified) | May 11th, 2010 at 8:42 pm | Reply

Evil, Just Evil!

Oh Greg, you know I just cannot eat this anymore? Well, I would prob take another hit of insulin to try it. Just not make a habit of it see. It looks that good. So bad, and evil.

Jason Sandeman (not verified) | May 10th, 2010 at 8:27 pm | Reply

Really lovely post. I think

Really lovely post. I think I would have loved your mom...and those potatoes
look out of this world. It's wonderful that you did a cookbook for your mom, how cool is that!

deana@lostpastremembered (not verified) | May 10th, 2010 at 5:56 am | Reply

Yay! You're back!

So glad the jerk/hacker didn't get the best of you, or your blog. Love reading these memories of your mother. So does this mean my kids, too, will be mortified when they're old enough to realize that not all moms wear bikinis? ;)

Dawn (KitchenTravels) (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 7:58 pm | Reply

That's exactly what that

That's exactly what that means for this little shy boy! GREG

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 8:05 pm | Reply

I keep on clicking back to

I keep on clicking back to your site from Foodgawker or Tastespotting or some such. Speaks to the allure of your photos.

This looks like a killer recipe. Indulgent. Well...moms know best.

Angela (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 6:59 pm | Reply

I'm just glad you're here! GREG

I'm just glad you're here! GREG

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 7:34 pm | Reply

That's so neat that your

That's so neat that your mom's recipes are in a book. You can always cook up something that reminds you of years gone by. I look forward to the recipes you'll be posting for the week.

Jenn (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 6:41 pm | Reply

This dish looks Judi-licious

Great tribute post, Greg, and it's easy to see why you are such a vivacious and entertaining cook. I didn't get to blog/comment this weekend but this was the first post I came to because your twitter posts were taunting me.

When you mentioned the kind of dishes your mom was making when other kids were being served horrible tuna twists, etc, it reminded me of the scene from the movie Better Off Dead when the mother is serving the new French exchange student french fries, french toasts, and french dressing. Not sure why I made that connection but it made me laugh. I bet your mom laughed a lot, didn't she? I just get that from your descriptions of her.

Chris (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 2:34 pm | Reply

You honor your mother wonderfully

With your own grace and style, as well as this tribute. I love her name, what a grand name...as yours jgreghenry...

Chef E (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 10:21 am | Reply

Cooking love

Wonderful tribute to your mom. Cooking is so much more than the actual what of the ingredients and the why of the technique it's the love and the memories that food creates. I hope one day my own boys have such fond memories of me.

WizzyTheStick (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 9:00 am | Reply

wonderful childhood...

you were so lucky to have a good cook in the family at a young age. i wish i would have had that. my inspiration comes from no one cooking in the house.
that has to be the perfect photo of a twice baked potato. nice.

vanillasugar (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 8:43 am | Reply

Twice baked, much loved

I love the fact that your brother collected your mother's recipes into a book like that - what a wonderful thing to have. And what wonderful potatoes. I have, of course, met them here before in their mini, truffled form, but it's lovely to see them in their original glory too.

The Daily Spud (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 5:07 am | Reply

:)

What a beautiful tribute to your mom. You are passing on the love she showed you with cooking to the rest of us.

kat (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 4:22 am | Reply

Thanks

that's very sweet of you to say. GREG

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 8:59 am | Reply

salut greg joli et touchant

salut greg joli et touchant hommage de ta mere !
et bravo pour cette recette de pomme de terre soufflées ! Pierre de Paris

Pierre (not verified) | May 9th, 2010 at 4:07 am | Reply

Merci Pierre!

Merci Pierre!

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 8:58 am | Reply

lovely!

Aw, what a great tribute to your mom! I'll bet she's beaming in the heavens, with a twinkle in her eye to see this.

That potato is just STUNNING. I love that little puffed up things...almost like marshmallows!

Sophia (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 9:49 pm | Reply

Yes the eggs give this a

Yes the eggs give this a great texture. Think gnocchi! GREG

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 8:57 am | Reply

These potatoes are just

These potatoes are just gorgeous, thank you for sharing your mom's special recipe and it is such a great tribute to her!

5 Star Foodie (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 8:45 pm | Reply

What amazing memories you

What amazing memories you have of your mother. I love that you have a cookbook of all her recipes, I have a little file of all my mom's it brings me comfort when I miss her.
Twice baked were always a favorite at our house also!

Sarah (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 8:35 pm | Reply

Long live these great old

Long live these great old recipes! GREG

jgreghenry | May 9th, 2010 at 8:56 am | Reply

The apple doesn't fall far from the tree

Seems you were greatly influenced by your mother's style and culinary skills. Sounds like an idyllic life and this was a beautiful, warm and entertaining tribute to her. Only thing I missed was a photo of Judi.

Love the fancy version, especially those toasty peaks. I was surprised to see egg yolks in the ingredient list -- makes it all the more rich tasting I imagine.

Joan Nova (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 5:59 pm | Reply

yes

My mother was extremely influenced by the French way of doing things, hence the eggs. When cooked properly the eggs give this version an almost pillowy gnocchi-like texture. I debated a photo but despite my mother being a ravishingly beautiful woman (I am not exaggerating– she was movie star pretty) she would not have liked a photo of herself out on the web. I may rethink that later in the week, we'll see... GREG

jgreghenry | May 8th, 2010 at 6:18 pm | Reply

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