Happy Mother’s Day to all you mothers, and all you sons and daughters too. Because Mother’s Day is a day to honor our mothers, sure– but it’s also a time for all us sons and daughters to pause and reflect. So that’s what I have for you today, culinary reflections on my mother. In fact, starting today I have 7 posts in a row. A week’s worth of reflections and recipes from my mother: Judi Jo Ann Bond Henry.
The 1970’s were when my own awareness of food began to develop. My mother was a fantastic cook. She probably learned most of her skills during this same period and I’d bet that Julia Child, Simone Beck and the whole Mastering the Art of French Cooking craze were her primary sources of inspiration.
While other kids were scarfing down “Tuna Twist”, “Mug-O-Lunch” and “Shake-A-Puddin”, my mom was serving us Bouillabaisse, Duck a la Orange, and Mousse de Foies de Volaille. She even taught my little brother and me how to make perfect little crêpes so that she could have 2 or 3 pans going at once for her famous dinner parties!
I recall bringing celeriac rémoulade to school in my lunch box. I knew the difference between a béarnaise and a hollandaise. We did not eat meat cooked beyond medium-rare (even pork) ever! So in many ways, you see, these are my comfort foods.
But my mother could also be a bit of a Pop-Princess. She dressed like Mary Richards (she and Mary had the same figure). She rocked to the Eagles, Elton John and Queen. To my pre-pubescent horror, my mother wore bikinis (other mothers did not wear bikinis)!
She was “with-it” in other ways too, even when it came to food. High trends (sake, sushi, fondue, Cuisinart) and even low trends (Jell-O salad, smiley face cookies, crunchy tacos, the Joe Namath popcorn popper) none escaped my mothers attention and curiosity. Hence we kids were exposed to all of this as well. Yes even sake!
So, needless to say the popularity of that big, cheesy, 1/2 pound, twice baked, piping hot, crunchy topped, Idaho potato was not missed at the Henry house. In fact it became a staple.
I remember my mother saying that they were a lot of work. She said it like it was a chore far exceeding her talents in the kitchen. But we knew better, ‘cuz she always said it with a twinkle in her eye. And like so many cooks before her, be it a cheese soufflé or grilled cheese with tomato soup, ultimately my mother cooked to please people. So it was that the Twice Baked Potato became that culinary specialty always requested by all three of my mother’s children when she asked “…and what would you like for your Birthday dinner?”.
Over the years I’ve hipped it up some. I have taken my mothers recipe and made it fit into my life, how I eat and how I entertain! I have a video I made last year highlighting my updated version of this great classic. It didn’t take a genius to figure it out either. I instinctively knew how to make it lighter, more sophisticated and even a bit of fun. But I never, ever let it lose sight of its roots. Something so right can be tweaked, but it cannot stray too far from its soul! Just like the son who remembers his mother and her kitchen in 1970’s. Click here for a printable recipe of my appetizer-sized version with truffle oil, or click on the screen grab above to watch the video.
But today, in honor of my mother I have her version. This is the version she called “fancy”, which meant it showed itself at dinner parties and major holidays. But click here if you want to see her “kid’s version” which uses cheddar instead of Gruyere and has a lot of bacon in it too. I know all of this because after my mother died my (wonderfully smart) brother took it upon himself to collect as many of my mother’s recipes as he could and put them together in a cookbook he called Judi’s Bistro. So thanks to him both versions of her Twice Baked Potato recipe have been saved. All these years later it’s a blessing to have such a book. And it’s from this book that I will be bringing you seven days in a row of my mother’s recipes. Happy Mother’s Day mom.
Julia Child once said “I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then I just ate.” My mother turned 32 in 1972, we moved to Farmington Hills, MI about the same time. My mother got a big suburban version of a French kitchen. We had bentwood bistro chairs in apple green; there was a Parisian Boulangerie print paper on the walls. There was even a wood-burning oven (on top of state of the art gas and electric appliances in a deep coppery brown).
My views on the world, our family, even my own self began to develop during these years, through a particular point of view, heavily influenced by my mother. It wasn’t always easy…whose youth really is? But that point of view, that particular point of view always included family, friends and food.
I don’t know when Julia turned 32, or even when she may have made that particular comment I mentioned earlier. But in my mind it will forever tie my mother and Julia Child together in a way that makes me both proud and grateful. (watch video)
- 4 large baking potatoes
- 2 large egg yolks
- 1 c gruyere chese, grated
- salt and white pepper to taste
- ground nutmeg, to taste
- 8 oz sour cream, plus more if needed
- 2 T chives, minced
Wash and Dry the Potatoes, then prick with a fork in a couple of places. Place them on the center rack of a 375 degree F oven. Bake for 30-40 mins, until done.
Cut each potato in half and scoop out pulp into a bowl, taking care not to break the skins. You’ll have 8 “boats”. Mash the potatoes and beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Beat in the remaining ingredients. Add in the additional 2 oz of sour cream if necessary to make them fluffy. Add salt and white pepper to taste.
Using a spoon, fill the potatoes to level. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large tip with the remaining potato mixture. Swirl the remaining potato mix onto each “boat” in a decorative manner.
To serve: Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. bake the boats about 25 minutes until heated through and golden brown on top. Serve warm.
SERIOUS FUN FOOD