Today’s pancake journey takes us to Jolly Old England. I promised you week of international pancakes and I am trying deliver; thereby proving that all nations– indeed all cultures, have some version of a pancake in their food traditions. Great Britain is certainly no exception. This is Toad-In-The-Hole and it is DAY 2.
I chose this pancake because it is classic pub food. It has the oddball name though, and I'll admit that is part of its allure to me. It is traditionally made with pork sausages (bangers) and a rich batter of flour, milk, and eggs. As this batter bakes, it gets puffed up, Yorkshire pudding style. The result is a beautifully browned, raised crust that encompasses the meat.
Do you ever hang out in pubs? I don’t know about where you live, but updated versions of the classic pub are popping up like toadstools all over Los Angeles. I was recently in one of the self-proclaimed “gastro-pubs†and noticed Toad-In-The-Hole being served.
Now I have a confession, until that day I had a very mistaken idea of what a true-to-the-Brits Toad-In-The-Hole actually was! I’d always called the egg that is fried in the hole in the middle of a piece of bread by the moniker Toad-In-The-Hole. But that’s incorrect. That dish is properly called Chicken-In-A-Basket, or Eggs-In-A-Basket. So when I saw a proper version of Toad-In-The-Hole being served my first shocked thought was, that looks nothing like a toad to me!
Well then, why’s it called Toad-In-The-Hole if no toads are involved? Great question! Well, as is so common in these stories. The answer to that question is that no one really knows for sure where the name came from. Theories (of course) abound. With the most common theory being my initial reaction that it must somehow bear a resemblance to a toad sticking its head out of a hole; however as I said, I think we can rule this theory out because it’s simply ridiculous. If they wanted to name it by the creature and environment it most resembled I am quite sure they would call this dish Worms-In-The-Mud!
I have also read that there was an 18th century pub game that involved tossing disks into holes across a table. It was called “Frog in the Holeâ€, which eventually morphed into “Toad in the Hole". However, this theory seems equally shaky to me, as it in no way explains how the name of a game became associated with a recipe.
So sadly we are left with a rather disgusting possibility that may not be fit for proper society– but I will pass the information along in the interest of scholastic fairness and let you decide for yourself. Before I continue let me just say this story is a bit too potty-mouthed for my taste. Other than heck, gosh and hell and an occasional damn. I honestly believe there are more intrelligent ways of making a point than resorting to cuss words. It's not that I am a prude, it just seems so unnecessary to me– in general.
But I am a grown up so I can determine when inappropriate language is well– appropriate. This is one of those times, because the only way to tell this story is by using words that Sup! considers less than dainty!
It seems most plausible that the name Toad-In-The-Hole may be is a slightly more polite corruption of "Turd-In-The-Hole".
So turd or toad, I just don’t know. Both are indeed off putting, but if you try to find the humor in the story it makes the whole thing more palatable. Because truthfully there is nothing disgusting about this dish. In fact it’s quite comforting and delicious.
At least one thing is for sure in my mind; this dish probably started as a way to stretch a small amount of meat into feeding an entire family. Because when you make this you will see that the batter absorbs all of the sausage juices and fat, making for a rich and delicious one-pot meal.
I made this recipe with standard breakfast sausages. Not quite an authentic "banger", but a reasonable subtitute nonetheless. I also prepped the hot pan with vegetable oil rather than the more traditional meat lard or bacon fat. Though I stayed true to its history by including a recipe for a traditional onion sauce, I strayed once again by serving this with very non-traditional cherry tomatoes. The bright hit of acid from the tomatoes works nicely with the soft full-mouth flavors of sausage and "pudding".
Toad-In-The-Hole with Onion Sauce & Cherry Tomatoes serves 4 CLICK here for a printable recipe
- 3 T unsalted butter
- 2 medium onions, halved and thinly sliced
- 1â„2 c madiera wine
- 1 c chicken stock
- 1 T worcestershire sauce
- coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2 large eggs
- 1 c milk
- 1 T dijon mustard
- 1 T plus 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, separated
- 3 T vegetable oil
- 8 american breakfast-style fresh pork sausages, casings removed
- 1 T chopped fresh rosemary
- cherry tomatoes (optional)
Melt the butter in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Cook the onions, stirring, until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Cover; cook over low heat to very low and continue to cook, stirring often until brown and jammy, about 25 minutes.
Slowly add 1 tablespoon of the flour while stirring and then cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in the wine, stock, and Worcestershire sauce. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until thick, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and let it sit until serving at which time re-heat the sauce.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, 1/2 cup water, and mustard; season with salt and pepper. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup flour. Let stand 20 minutes.
Coat a 13 x 9-inch or 3 1/2-quart baking dish with the oil; heat in the oven 10 or 15 minutes, until smoking hot. Remove from the oven. Pour the batter into the dish. Arrange the sausages on top; sprinkle with rosemary. Bake until puffed, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately with gravy and some (optional) cherry tomatoes on the side.
SERIOUS FUN FOOD
Greg Henry
SippitySup





Comments
I know I always thought a
I know I always thought a Toad-in-the-Hole was an egg sitting in the center of a slice of bread which actually makes more sense, doesn't it? But that's us Americans! But once you started on all of those suppositions you created some nasty visions in my head; but I love your savory, luscious version of this dish. I think you just brought pub food up a notch.
Soo...when can I come over
Soo...when can I come over for brunch?
A Toad In A Whole By Any Other Name
You cracked me up with this post tonight, Greg. I also used to think "toad in the hole" was the same as Eggs in a Nest (see my post tomorrow, you'll laugh at what I did last weekend). It must be a southern thing because everyone else seems to recognize it as this sausage dish.
But your explanation of the possible origins was educational and fun. Edfuncational?
Wonderful Brunch Dish!
My family would be in heaven if I served this for our Sunday Brunch!
That's a different pancake
That's a type of pancake you can eat anytime huh!? It looks yummy. Thanks so much for this. :-)
Toad in the hole is no
Toad in the hole is no breakfast dish....Its a dinner dish or even sunday lunch!!
To my eye though the batter has not risen as it should...here is a recipe for yorkshire pudding batter that is gauranteed to jump out of you oven.
I have converted it into cups for you guys as well!!
2 cups flour plain
2 cups eggs (beaten)
2 cups milk
pinch of salt
2 tablespoons oil
put flour and salt into a bowl (no need to sieve)
add eggs and mix as best you can.
slowly add milk and oil and continue mixing until a smooth batter is formed, If there is a few lumps left dont worry it will still work.
To cook it follow the above recipe however i would turn the oven down after about 15 minutes or the batter has risen to set it and stop it from burning,
This recipe is from 8 years of making sunday lunch of roast beef and yorkshire puddings at work!
I hope you try it as i think it will be quite a different batter to the one in the original post.
Anyway happy cooking.
Nick
Toad in the hole
Hate to say it folks but that looks more like an omelet with sausages in!
A true british 'toad' has a batter that behaves like yorkshire pudding batter - big and fluffy that grows around the sausages as it cooks, to the point that you cant necessarily see them! If I had a picture I would show you.
Hope you will take my criticism as constructive and not be offended, cos I love that people from other countries cook British food!
Jackie
Hmmm...
Never heard of this, but it looks good, and love the gravy you made to go with... I love the crispy edges...
ribbit..ribbit
I'm not sure I ever knew what Toad in The Hole was. I think this looks wonderful and will be giving it a try one of these weekends. Thanks for the recipe.
Tasty Recepie
i have never heard about them!They looks and sounds soo yummy!I'm dying to try it!
The real deal
I too was confused when I saw the pic of this post! I was like "I thought it was the egg in a frame" so thanks for showing the proper toad in the hole. Like you I think it should be called worm in the mud. Either way it looks like a hearty & fun breakfast to me!
I agree that there are better
I agree that there are better ways to express one self than cussing ( with the exception of rush hour traffic :))
Your post made me laugh so hard, I so love coming here!
I am a pancake-loving prude . . .
. . . who appreciates the history behind the food. Half the fun is learning how these dishes get their unusual names, even if it turns out that it's none too appetizing. In this case, I don't care! I just want a big ol' serving.
You never cease to make me giggle
with your posts! I love to read every one of them!
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