Cioppino & Pasta Best of Both Worlds

12 Mar 2010
Posted by jgreghenry
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Chorizo Stuffed Pasta Shells in Cioppino Sauce

I was in the mood for seafood but the hunky BF wanted pasta.

What’s an over-achieving boot-licker to do?

Well combine both ideas and make everyone happy of course! This is another one of those made up recipes. I can’t take all the credit though, because the BF suggested combining them (and he chose the shell-shaped pasta whose sychronicity with the shellfish made me smile). I emailed my brother for more help and he suggested chorizo. He also chose the wine for this pairing.

Though, I share the credit– and I am not one to “tweet” my own horn (well maybe I am), I still have to say this is one of the best recipes I ever made up.

The word cioppino and the dish itself have become San Francisco classics. Still, its roots (even its name) may be Italian in origin. Which may lay some credence to the tale I have heard told that it was first brought to the American palate in the North Beach section of that great city by the bay.

Fattoria Laila Verdicchio dei Castelli wine pairingBut it's the Mediterranean flair of this tomato based seafood stew that interests me. It seems that quite a few Italian fishermen may have immigrated to the US and settled in the Bay Area of California. Maybe they brought the tradition with them... because a typical fisherman's stew may be the roots of this dish and most likely originated on boats working the waters of the Mediterranean. At this time fishing boats didn't have refrigeration. So they were limited to the seafood they caught and canned foods, like tomatoes. Bread and wine could have survived the journey. So it’s likely these ingredients influenced the nightly meals of the men who worked these vessels.

This explains how it may have come to San Francisco. It even explains the ingredients, but where did the word come from? Well there are two (at least) accepted possibilities.

Ciuppin is a word in the Ligurian dialect of Italian common to the port city of Genoa. It means "to chop". Well, the various leftovers of the day's catch may have needed some chopping to make them acceptable to the stew pot. So that’s one possibility for the name. I also read a less likely story about fishermen on San Francisco’s similarly named wharf “chippin’ in” a bit of this and that from the day's catch to make a communal soup.

Of course we’ll never know. But one thing is for certain. The fishermen who harvested the seas here or abroad probably never had my version served to them. Because I have added pasta shells stuffed with chorizo and clams. Then I baked these shells in a thick version of the sauce that becomes the base of the cioppino, which is poured on top of the pasta shells and served with lots of fresh seafood.

So whether I take all the credit, or I share it with my brother, the city of San Fransisco, the grand tradition of Italian fishermen, or even the hunky BF– it doesn't really matter, beause I am hoping you'll be too busy sticking your face into this fragrant bowl to really care too much.

Chorizo & Clam Stuffed Pasta Shells In Chroizo Sauce serves 4 generously CLICK here for a printable recipe

  • 1⁄2 c olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 3 clv garlic, minced
  • 2 large shallots, roughly chopped
  • 1 fennel bulb, stalks and fronds trimmed off, cored and slices cross-wise
  • 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 1 stalk celery, cut in 1/4" dice
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 sprig fresh oregano
  • 1 t crushed red-pepper flakes, or to more taste
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 2 T tomato paste
  • 3 1⁄2 c dry white vermouth
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 3 c clam juice
  • 2 T worcestershire sauce
  • 2 T vegetable oil, plus more for baking dish
  • 1 T salt for pasta water
  • 1 lb dried pasta shells, big enough to stuff
  • 1⁄2 red onion, cut into 1/4” dice
  • 4 oz cured spanish chorizo, cut into 1/4" dice
  • 2 (6.5 oz) cans of chopped clams, rinsed and drained
  • 1 c fresh (not toasted) breadcrumbs
  • 2 roma tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/4” dice
  • 1⁄2 c roughly chopped italian parsley
  • 1⁄4 c fennel leaves, delicate fronds only, chopped
  • 1 T red wine vinegar
  • 1 lb firm fleshed fish of your choosing cut into 1” chunks
  • 12 large shrimp, peeled and de-veined
  • 12 small clams such as manila, well scrubbed
  • 12 mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
  • 1⁄4 roughly chopped basil leaves
  • 1 (28 oz) can of diced tomatoes

cioppino basePrepare the Sauce
Heat 1/4-cup olive oil in a stockpot set over medium heat. Add garlic & shallots, sweat until softened. Add fennel, carrot & celery; cook an additional 3 minutes. Add thyme & oregano, along with red pepper. Season with salt & pepper.

Add tomato paste, stirring often. Once the paste cooks down, add 1-cup vermouth, de-glazing the pan. Raise heat to medium-high & continue to cook until the liquid thickens. Add an additional cup of vermouth & continue cooking; until the liquid is reduced by half. Add bay leaves, can of tomatoes with its liquid, 2 cups clam juice & the Worcestershire. Lower heat to a simmer & cover the pot. Cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 30 minutes.

Turn off heat & remove herb branches & bay leaves. Using an immersion blender puree the sauce. It should be slightly thick, but smooth & velvety. Bring to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 3 days.

Prepare the Shells
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil a 2-quart casserole. Bring a medium pot of water to boil. Add 1 T salt & the pasta shells. Cook until al dente, about 12 minutes. Stir the shells to prevent them from sticking together. Drain into a colander and rinse with cool water. Set aside.

tomato based sauceHeat 2 T olive oil in a medium-sized sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the onions & cook a few moments. Add the chorizo & the clams stirring until well coated. Pour in 1/2-cup vermouth & continue to cook until the liquid is reduced & the pan is nearly dry. Season with a little salt & pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and toss in the breadcrumbs & clam juice, stirring to combine. Add the tomatoes, 1/4-cup parsley & fennel fronds, mix well.

Drizzle a light layer of the sauce over the bottom of a 9”x13” baking dish. Working with one shell at a time, spoon 1 to 3 T of the chorizo mixture (depending on the size of your shells) into each shell setting them into the baking dish as you work. They should be touching, but not tightly packed. Once the dish is filled, drizzle additional sauce over the shells, be generous, but they should not be swimming in the sauce. Bake the shells until the sauce is bubbling & the exposed areas of shell are just beginning to brown, about 30 minutes. Set them aside, loosely covered.

Prepare the Cioppino
Add red wine vinegar to the remaining sauce and bring to a simmer. Adjust the consistency of the sauce with water. You want it brothy, but not watery. Use your judgment. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Add the fish and shrimp to the pot of simmering base. Cover the pot.

stuffed shellsTo Serve
Spoon several stuffed shells into each of 4 low soup bowls. In a large skillet with lid, heat the remaining 1-cup of vermouth set over medium heat. Add the clams & mussels. Cover & cook; shaking until the shellfish open, about 5 minutes. Discard unopened shellfish; divide the rest among the soup bowls. Strain the remaining liquid into the cioppino & raise the heat. Once small bubbles begin to appear on the edges of the pot turn the heat off, do not let the cioppino come to a boil. Ladle the cioppino over the shellfish & pasta shells making sure to include a variety of fish and shrimp. Garnish generously with remaining parsley, basil & a drizzle of olive oil. Serve warm.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

Comments

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looks great, makes me hungry

looks great, makes me hungry

Posted by Tom (not verified) | Mar 21st, 2010 at 4:56 am | Reply

Brilliant Juxtaposition of Mollusks and Pasta Shells!

I love it! Looks and sounds amazing. Thanks for the history lesson too. I made Cioppino recently and it was so expensive, it is definitely not the rustic sailor stew that it once was.

Posted by papawow (not verified) | Mar 15th, 2010 at 10:00 pm | Reply

OMG

that looks like a super tasty combination. Spanish chorizo is a great sausage and is pretty easy to find in Sweden too. Please check out my online cooking show, Swedish Home Cooking. I'm making Swedish meatballs in the latest episode! Linn

Posted by Linn @ Swedish Home Cooking (not verified) | Mar 15th, 2010 at 2:35 pm | Reply

I love your videos

Even the out takes! GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Mar 15th, 2010 at 3:38 pm | Reply

Fabulous! Seafood, pasta,

Fabulous! Seafood, pasta, and chorizo - all my favorites in one dish! Yum!

Posted by 5 Star Foodie (not verified) | Mar 14th, 2010 at 1:26 pm | Reply

Shell to Shell

Fun, but seriously delicious. Open computer, look at this dish, hear the sea.

Posted by Anglela@spinachtiger (not verified) | Mar 14th, 2010 at 8:15 am | Reply

Wow - this looks insanely

Wow - this looks insanely good - all of my favorite things

Posted by Dana (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 2:44 pm | Reply

Waiting for the babysitter to

Waiting for the babysitter to arrive and thinking I need to order something from the menu that resembles your dish because I am craving it now.

Posted by Unplanned Cooking (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 2:41 pm | Reply

Yum Yum!

Whoa! Fantastic! I have been dreaming of something like this - I adore seafood and this sauce is fabulous! Brilliant to add the pasta shells. Go ahead, Greg, tweet your own horn!

Posted by Jamie (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 1:04 pm | Reply

Lookin good!

I've never had this with pasta shells. Like you said, the best of both worlds. Also I should know better & should have eaten something before I read this post!

Posted by Bianca @ South Bay Rants n Raves (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 12:55 pm | Reply

Suuuwheeet! Greg, you have

Suuuwheeet! Greg, you have really outdone yourself this time. I am wondering what a splattering of saffron would do to this dish?

Now, if I could just convert you to using a scale in ALL aspects of your kitchen... :D

Posted by Jason Sandeman (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 11:39 am | Reply

This is the best-lookin'

This is the best-lookin' soup I want to eat it NOW !!

Posted by tasteofbeirut (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 9:35 am | Reply

2 meals in one

you really outshined on this one. i would def. consider this two meals in one. how fabulous is that?

Posted by dawn (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 8:42 am | Reply

I'll Take Some Pinot With that Pinno

Greg, this looks really really good. My husband loves ciopinno and I've never ever made it. I can't tell if you've made me feel guilty or inspired me! Great post as always.

Posted by Lea Ann (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 6:38 am | Reply

Stuffed Shells

have never looked so good! You dressed this dish up in such a great way!

I think the 'boot-licking' paid off!

Posted by Chef E (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 6:19 am | Reply

fabulous!

Oh Greg, this is gorgeous! You've really outdone yourself here. Can't wait to try it.

Posted by the wicked noodle (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 6:10 am | Reply

Gorgeous

This dish is gorgeous Greg. Looks like you pleased everyone with this one. The shells are beautiful and what a lovely assortment of shellfish and fish. I know the basil gave it just the right flavor too. Great info on the origin of the dish too.
Sam

Posted by My Carolina Kitchen (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 5:29 am | Reply

Almost passed on this, as I

Almost passed on this, as I am not a biog fan of Cioppino - but, add in the pasta and chorizo and I'm in. Looks great - any left? I could be there in a day...

Posted by Katez (not verified) | Mar 13th, 2010 at 3:45 am | Reply

Seriously, let's trade

okay, you make this, and I'll make whatever you want - anything at all. My place or yours, I don't care, just as long as I get a great big portion of shells stuffed with goodness.

Posted by allison lemons (not verified) | Mar 12th, 2010 at 10:45 pm | Reply

Best of both world indeed.

Best of both world indeed. The ingredient list looks a bit intimidating at first glance, but I think I can handle it.

Posted by Jenn (not verified) | Mar 12th, 2010 at 10:08 pm | Reply

I hate chorizo and never use it.....

And I'm a big fat liar;)

Although I haven't found good Spanish chorizo around here.

Posted by Chris (not verified) | Mar 12th, 2010 at 9:55 pm | Reply

Can I cut, or rather 'ciuppin', to the chase . . .

. . . and just ask you to overnight a container of this to Minnesota? This is both a complete meal and a complete post - beautiful photos, great recipe and wine pairing, and cool information about cioppino's elusive origins.

Posted by Tangled Noodle (not verified) | Mar 12th, 2010 at 9:37 pm | Reply

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