You Say Caprese And I'll Remember

23 Feb 2009
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slow roasted caprese salad with burattaSo here’s how my mind works. Grab a pen because I paid people good money to get to the bottom of this.

I recently roasted some less than spectacular off-season tomatoes. I made a fairly time consuming, but very delicious, panzanella salad. I called it a winter panzanella because I roasted those off-season little buggers to try to coax as
much sweetness out of them as I could.

This is great trick. But based on some of the emails I received I need to point out that I am not a genius. This method is not something I “invented”. I’ll say it again. I AM NOT A CHEF.  I cannot save you culinarily.

But there is one thing I do know. There are very few tricks in cooking (read life) that have not been tried before. I first had winter tomatoes slow roasted like this at Babbo in New York City a very, very long time ago. Not the 1800s long time
ago. But Bill Clinton was President and my 401k looked pretty healthy. Healthy enough to pay for overcooked tomatoes in a city across the country from where I actually lived.

But I have digressed.

I keep saying roasted, but that implies a high temperature; which is not the case here. So, do as I do…not as I say. Okay?

What I “do” is I cook the tomatoes well past baked. But not as far as “sun dried”. They get crinkly, their sugars really bloom and the consistency approaches jam. Jam in skintight jammies! I like them best when that “jam” is still a bit juicy and runny. So when you pierce those “jammies” the goodness oozes out onto the plate.

roast tomatoesYou can experiment with how to best achieve this. It generally takes me about 3 hours in a 225 degee oven. As tomatoes vary in size, ripeness, density etc. the timing may be a bit different for you. So use your own judgment and don’t blame me if you can’t pull it off. I am not your mommy.

But this is all just exposition to what I am really talking about here; and the very reason you are reading these words. You want to know how my mind works. Well, I am getting to that.

I also encountered a winterized version of a summertime classic, the caprese salad, last year at Pizzeria Mozza-- here in Los Angeles. That recipe was re-created in the LA Times (remember when you loved it…) quite a while ago, and it is the basis for the luscious creation I have brought to you today. This recipe also substitutes mozzarella for sweet, creamy burrata. I love burrata! You should too.

Should I say more about the recipe? I don't know. Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton. Maybe my mumbo jumbo is just so much static... so read the recipe.

Okay…where was I? You should know I am drinking wine right now…

Oh yes....how my mind works. Well. Here it is. I am a steel trap. Say something to me and I remember it. Cook me something and I’ll enjoy it (completely). Be my friend and reap the consequences. Love me…and you have me for life.

I remember the plot details of almost every book I have ever read. My BF is sometimes shocked because he’ll pull out a book we read 15 years ago and say. “I never read this”. And I’ll say, “yes you did and here’s what happened!”

A great example of this is the book The Reader. Which (thank the literary gods…) the movie is so like the book. When PIE (that’s the BF) and I were watching The Reader. I accidentally spilled the beans. (Hmmm…I am getting hungry) about the Nazi horror. He screamed (in a really sweet loving way) “HOW DID YOU KNOW THAT, AND WHY DID YOU TELL ME?”

“Because”, I said “WE READ THE BOOK!”

Which is the end of the story.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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winter caprese

The salad sounds delicious...

Very few ideas are not at least inspired by another idea including recipes...

I still love Russ Parsons' column...

Sara (not verified) | Feb 27th, 2009 at 11:07 am | Reply

Russ

Is fantastic and my sole inspiration when I started my weekly Market Matters. GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 27th, 2009 at 11:17 am | Reply

My favorite salad

Greg, you've done it again. Caprese is my favorite salad. It's so simple, yet you can do so much with it. I love your interpretation. Thanks again for a wonderful post.

Eric

Eric (not verified) | Feb 25th, 2009 at 8:52 am | Reply

caprese

I made the oven roasted tomatoes today, and it was a PERFECT treatment for some excess grape tomatoes I had that were slightly past their prime. I tossed them over some whole wheat pasta for lunch. DELICIOUS!

Thanks for the great inspiration as always-

Liz (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 2:21 pm | Reply

Liz Speaks!

Yay! I just know I know which Liz this is! GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 2:43 pm | Reply

Again

You manage to tell a story that is multi layered and tells us something about yourself. All the while you cloak this story in a recipe. It's a talent you have and a joy to read.

Abi-GAYLE (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:40 pm | Reply

Gayle

I never know when you are teasing me...GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:50 pm | Reply

Jammy Tomatoes

You may not be a chef but you cook up wonderful things with your words. I mean, jammy tomatoes in skintight jammies, who wouldn't want a piece of that!

The Daily Spud (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:21 pm | Reply

Ms. Spud!

I am glad somebody caught that little bit a "wordsmithing" on my part. I chuckled about that silly turn of phrase all night. GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:53 pm | Reply

You are a ridiculous person

Nice pic on Food Gawker. This looks yummy, and I greatly dislike raw tomatoes (so does Nick), but not as much as cilantro.

Sara (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:15 pm | Reply

imafoodblog

Haven't I already talked to you guys once about not liking things? You guys are called imafoodblog not imsomekindsafoodblog. GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 1:56 pm | Reply

Caprese

What a beautiful presentation. I make those dried tomatoes when I have a lot laying around. I pack them in Extra Virgin Olive Oil and stick them in the fridge. They are great adds to pasta.

Holly Hadsell - El Hajji (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 12:27 pm | Reply

ahhh...

Too many tomatoes. I wish I had that problem, sadly I have no garden. GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 12:28 pm | Reply

Alex

Welcome. I plan on future visits to Just Cook It GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 24th, 2009 at 10:39 am | Reply

caprese

WOnderful post. I love the idea of intensifying the flavour in the salad by doing this. Thanks for stopping by Just Cook It, saying hello and introducing me to Suppity Sup

Alex (not verified) | Feb 24th, 2009 at 3:25 am | Reply

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