I’ve got a lot to cover in 300 words today. So let me start with the five most important words: Apple Gateau from Anne Willan.
There are at least three good reasons you’re seeing those five words today (Apple Gateau from Anne Willan).
The first is. I did a bastardized version of this recipe recently, and it turned out to be rather popular. It may be pumpkin season, but people seem to have apple on the brain. In the post for that confection I mentioned Anne’s Apple Gateau as the genesis for the Apple-Pie Cake that you all seemed to love so much. I was first introduced to it through Martha Stewart’s television show in the 1990s. The recipe I present here today is an adaptation of Anne’s original version.
The second reason you’re seeing the original, so soon after I presented a shortcut version, is serendipity. I happen to have been sent a copy of Anne Willan’s memoir One Soufflé at a Time by her publisher St. Martin’s Press (the very same week I posted my simplified version of Anne’s Apple Gateau). I started reading the book even before the wrapper it came in found its way to the recycling bin. That’s what I call serendipity. The book chronicles a time when cooks like Julia Child and Anne Willan were introducing Americans to classical French cuisine. The book has recently been re-released in paperback, and it’s a read all cooks will savor.
Especially my mom. I wish she’d lived long enough to read this book. Every word in the book reminds me of her. She’s the third reason I spent 14 hours in the kitchen making Anne’s Apple Gateau.
The only way to talk about a memoir I suppose, is to spill a little something personal of my own.
I’ve said this before, but the 1970’s were when my own awareness of food began to develop. My mother was a fantastic cook. She probably learned most of her skills during this same period and I’d bet that Julia Child, Simone Beck and (yes) Anne Willan were her primary sources of inspiration. While other kids were scarfing down “Tuna Twist”, “Mug-O-Lunch” and “Shake-A-Puddin”, my mom was serving us Bouillabaisse, Duck à la Orange, and Mousse de Foies de Volaille. She even taught my little brother and me how to make perfect little crêpes, so that she could have 2 or 3 pans going at once for her famous dinner parties.
I’m coming up on a big birthday. It’s not a birthday that ends in a zero. But it’s a big one none-the-less. On this birthday I will be older than my mother ever was. So you see, this book, those times, and even Anne’s Apple Gateau are woven into the way I think about cooking. This style of cooking is not the latest trendy (gluten-free) thing, it’s not fast or always easy, and I’ll admit there are reasons you shouldn’t eat like this everyday, but as Julia Child once said “I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then I just ate.”
My mother turned 32 in 1972, we moved to Farmington Hills, MI about the same time. My mother got a big suburban version of a French kitchen. We had bentwood bistro chairs in apple green; there was a Parisian Boulangerie print paper, and real brick on the walls. There was even a wood-burning oven (on top of state of the art gas and electric appliances in a deep coppery brown).
My views on the world, our family, even my own self began to develop during these years, through a particular point of view, heavily influenced by my mother. It wasn’t always easy… whose youth really is? But that point of view, that particular point of view always included family, friends and food. If that’s a feeling you can relate to, you’ll love this book– and you’ll love this Apple Gateau. You won’t even care that it takes you 14 hours to make, or that it took me more than 600 words to explain why you should. GREG
You may serve the gateau as is, or garnished with yogurt, crème anglaise or caramel sauce.
Ingredients
- butter (as needed)
- 2 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 6 ½ pound tart apples (such as Granny Smith)
Directions
Heat oven to 175 degrees F. Generously butter a 1 ½‑quart straight-sided souffle dish and a wide strip of parchment paper to form a collar extending at least 3 inches above the rim of the dish. Press the buttered side of the collar against the inside of the dish. Chill until butter is set and the paper sticks to the dish.
Mix sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl; set aside.
Peel, halve and core the apples. Cut each half crosswise into very thin slices, no more than 1/8 inch thick, work in batches placing sliced apples into a very large bowl as you work. A food processor fitted with the slicing blade works very well for this job. Alternately, slice apple halves using a mandoline, or a chefs knife.
Remove the prepared dish from the refrigerator. Sprinkle bottom of with about ½ teaspoon of the sugar mixture. Toss the sliced apples with the remainder until well distributed. Arrange a layer of apple slices in a tightly overlapping circular floral pattern in the bottom of the dish. Repeat with at least a second and third layer of apple running in the opposite directions. This crossed pattern of slices ensures that the cake holds together when unmolded.
Once a stable and attractive base is set (remember this will become the top) continue filling the dish with apples that are laid flat, pressing them down as you work to fill as many gaps as possible. Fill the entire dish and all the way up to the extended collar, which should be at least 3 inches above the rim. (They will shrink down into the souffle dish during baking.) Cover the top with a round of parchment paper. Lay a small stack of plates slightly smaller than the souffle dish to seal and weigh down apples.
Bake on a rimmed baking sheet until apples are much reduced and meltingly soft when pierced with a skewer, 12 to 14 hours. Tear off the top of the paper collar, and let cake cool to room temperature.
Carefully unmold gateau onto a rimmed or slightly slopped platter and remove parchment. The top should be lightly caramelized with syrupy juice running down the sides.
Slice and serve.
I will continue reading, but, I had to stop at gluten-free being characterized as a trend. 99% of us would NOT give up wheat if we didn’t have to choose between it and pain.
Good work, Greg. Look at amazing! Thanks for recipe
Hi Greg, I’m here from Brook’s lovely blog, the Cake Walker.
I was dumbfounded when I started to read your post, what cake recipe takes 14 hours to make? Now I’m super curious! The result is absolutely gorgeous and relatively simple. My husband’s family are huge apple pie lovers so I’m sure they’d love this recipe. I just want to make it because it takes 14 hours! Talk about OTT!
Great apple gateau Greg and thank you for sharing the lovely memories of your mom! Wishing you a wonderful birthday! Cheers!
Hi Greg — is the temp in Fahrenheit or Celsius?
f GREG
What a gorgeous gateau, those layers of apples look simply divine!
I’m not seeing the recipe, where is it posted?
Thanks!
Hmmm. This is a glitch. The recipe should be at the bottom. It was yesterday! I hope I can fix it. In the meantime here is a link. http://www.sippitysup.com/recipe/apple-gateau-anne-willan/ GREG
I loved reading this wonderful post, and what a gorgeous gateau! I have made an apple cake of Martha’s in the past–it came out very heavy, and very pie-like, so I wonder if it was the same one. But this is utter simplicity, and I must try it.
WOW this apple gateau is amazing! I can just imagine the wonderful aromas that fill the house while this is in the oven.
Oh, what a masterpiece! Apple always trumps pumpkin and this gateau is impressive. My mom taught us how to make crepes at an early age, too, and exposed us to all sorts of cuisines. I thoroughly enjoyed your memories of your mom.
I had the pleasure of meeting Anne at a food event — such a wonderful, inspiring woman. I look forward to reading her memoir. This recipe is a true little jewel — one to be shared and savored with family and friends. Beautiful Greg!
As another son who lost his mother-chef so young, your story really hit home. I am grateful to our mothers for what they taught us… mostly that food is so important, intrinsically creative, and fun. My mother never knew of Ann Willan, though… Isn’t that the saddest thing? This apple gateau has been a favorite of mine for a long time. I make little individual ones, too. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and (whenever it is) Happy Big Birthday!
fantastic article.
love seeing this old recipe again. I almost forgot about it. Up north where I lived in superb apple land, I had a pilot light on my gas range- the oven is around 200 degrees all the time. so this worked perfectly.
but now I am south, its hot and no one wants their oven on that long with the a/c running.
soooo, I am contemplating trying this in a crock pot- sounds nuts I know. At my age (old) I am embarrassed to say I never owned one till last year.
I can put it outside in a covered lanai to cook/bake.
If it works I should be able to get it out in one piece after its done, kwim? I will try to flip it out of the crockery insert. what’s the worst that could happen? I could serve it in little bowls w/ your suggested toppings.
thanks.
I bet it will work! GREG
Greg, it has been way too long since I’ve visited you and how glad I am back. As someone who grew up eating “Tuna Twist”, “Mug-O-Lunch” and “Shake-A-Puddin”, I love imaging your mom and you in the kitchen making that fabulous French food. And this Gâteau is sensational, simple yet so sensational.
Take all the time you need — sharing your memories of mom are priceless. I am in awe of this artful gateau!
2 questions: Are you adding butter between the apple layers “as needed”? And do you bake it with the plates still on top? Thanks
The butter is only used “as needed: to coat the dish. Yes bake the gateau with the plates on top. You don’t need more than 2 or 3, they help assure even cooking. GREG
Had to come back again! I can just picture you in the kitchen with my mother! Had she been aware of this, I’m sure she would have made it. And stayed in the kitchen the entire 14 hours whipping up all sorts of things. I also grew up with “coppertone” appliances and great cooking. I love the way you decorated this.
Oh my god this apple gateau is incredible!! Wish I could devour a slice right now — I can imagine how good it would have tasted!
I just showed this picture to the crew and they have insisted that I make it tomorrow. Can’t wait. Thanks so much for posting this.
Beautifully done Greg. I love how this gateau seems to tower but not lean. Lovely backstory as well.
Ok, I see what the 14 hours is. 14 hours of baking, not prep-time, although the prep is not a sneeze either.
You sell this really well, Greg. Loved the post and story about your mom.
Let’s see if I have the willpower to wait 14 hours for this thing to come out of the oven.
WOW…truly a work of art. Mom would be very proud, indeed!
So glad you made this! I remember you discussing this recipe, and I really wanted to see it. And the recipe is so simple! Yes it takes time, and arranging the apples attractively would be a bit fiddly (for me), but it’s a great recipe. Thanks.
Such a great post. I only wish I could give this a try with actual Michigan apples!
Love musing about Moms–esp. half a year from Mother’s day next. You make me want the book.….
This has got to be the coolest thing I’ve seen in months. Gorgeous Greg!
WOW! that looks divine. I wish someone would have given my mom French cookbooks. Instead we grew up with wheat germ in everything, a fist full of vitamins with every meal, washed down with luke-warm cod liver oil thanks to Adelle Davis. 🙂
Just beautiful Greg. Thank you for sharing and recommending Ms. Willan’s memoir. It’s now on my Wish List!
Any list of ingredients that starts with “Butter (as needed)” has my attention 🙂
I actually looked up this recipe after seeing your Apple Pie Crumb Cake. ‘Tis a beauteous thing.
I often think of my mom when I’m cooking/baking and wish I could just call her and say “You’ve got to try this!”
Greg, you’ve pushed all my buttons (in a good way) with this one — Anne Willan, Julia Child, kitchens, mom, Michigan and apple pie! (I’ll have to come back tomorrow to comment on the recipe, I’m too busy sighing just now!)
such a lovely post — I have an apple tree weighed low with apples and will definitely make both versions