Jam-Filled Italian Crostate (or crostata if you prefer). It's hard to walk into any bakery or pasticceria in Italy and not notice these little hand-pies right away. They are usually lattice-topped. But the lattice is typically a bit different in appearance than what we North American's might expect on a lattice-topped pie.

That's because Italians roll out thin strands of dough for the tops of these sweet pastries. They're typically among the most rustic and humble of all the treats these shops offer. But there's a mighty wallop of flavor packed into them.

The crust is often just as sweet as the jam, making this little tart seem more like a big cookie than a pie. In general these sweet doughs are called pasta frolla and they are rich and buttery. I use a recipe adapted from Dominica Marchetti that's enhanced with a little lemon and orange zest. It has a crumbly, shortbread texture when baked, and should not be handled too much in the preparation as it can get rather tough with too much work.

I have seen other interesting versions too. Nancy Silverton uses sesame seeds in the pasta frolla dough in her new book, The Mozza Cookbook with Matt Molina & Carolyn Carreno. I have never seen sesame seeds in the crusts during my travels, but there's something about the idea that just feels right to me. So I have added her version to my must make list.

However, as an introduction to crostate I have decided to bring you a style as close in feeling to the the version I first experienced in Italy. That means the simplest of crumbly, sweet dough filled with the very best jam I can get my hands on.

I don't usually make the jam specifically for crostate. Crostate are often made on a whim, so I use what ever I have on hand– straight from the jar. My advice is always have some good jam around the house. Or better yet, put aside some of your own homemade jam, as I do every summer with the figs from my neighborhood. GREG

It's summer and I can hear you humming a certain tune in your head and that little ditty is crabcakes.

It's a song we all know, but New Englanders claim to have written it.

But out here in California we have a pretty toe tappin' version ourselves. And I am talking about Dungeness crabcakes. Dungeness crabs are the sweet and delicious. Of course all crab is sweet and delicious but I hold a special place on my taste buds for dungeness. It is a sustainable west coast choice and it is regularly found at the Hollywood Farmers Market.

Now people hold some pretty strong opinions about crabcakes, and I fully endorse that. At their best crabcakes should be very crabby, we all agree with that. The traditional cakes of the Chesapeake Bay area are often lump (blue) crab and very little else. But that sort of gem is not commonly found because it can be tricky getting it into the pan, while still holding shape. Which just brings up even more questions. Should you roll crabcakes in breadcrumbs or add breadcrumbs to the mix? Some people cross themselves and turn away just at the mention of breadcrumbs. See what I mean? What about egg? Is that cheating? Well in my mind both the breadcrumb and egg discussions are valid, because they both address texture. But you have to be careful, too many ingredients make a wet, sticky mixture. Which may mold easily and hold its form quite well, but once fried up, you get something close to a hockey puck. It may look beautiful, but its virtues end there.

A seasonal meal: That’s my hook today. Well that and something else I hope you’ll chew on…

First the seasonal meal: I baked sweet spring onions with lemon slices, kalamata olives & rosemary. It became rich and fragrant. I could have eaten it with a spoon straight from the oven. It would also have made a fantastic topping for crostini. But I tossed it with linguine and called it default pasta. Default past with no faults! Get the recipe for Spring Onion Linguine with Lemon Slices Kalamata & Rosemary here.

It’s a terrific pasta recipe. But spring is green. So, here is a recipe for a cold crisp plate of steamed asparagus with goat cheese and arugula sauce. At the last minute I decided maybe this dish was a little too green and threw some radishes on the plate. I felt the presentation needed something surprising. It turns out radishes and goat cheese are perfect partners (kinda like radishes and butter, only better). I am going to get them hooked up again very soon.

Of course a seasonal meal would be lacking without something a bit sweet. So if you CLICK here I have a Norwegian Orange Cake recipe for you. I took the recipe from the LA Times this past Thursday. Sure it’s sweet and highly seasonal, especially in Norway. But I chose this cake for it’s coincidental timing in my life. You see I found out on Wednesday that this June I will be participating in a Culinary Travel Tour to of all places– Norway! The timing of this Norwegian cake in my life was just too eerie. I had to make it immediately.

You may have noticed that I presented a full meal here. I don’t usually do that. But you see I am trying to keep you interested because I have something else I really want to discuss.

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