Posted by Greg Henry
Trumps was a 1980s food destination in Los Angeles. The term foodie got its start in the excessive eighties and Trumps became a foodie Mecca. The simple, streamlined South Western influence of the architecture was just a façade for the extravagant tastes and flavors that Chef Michael Roberts was presenting to the Hollywood players that stopped in night after night.
Many credit Trumps for finally putting Los Angeles on the culinary map because it was as sophisticated and imaginative as any Manhattan eatery and had the extra allure of the grandest of Hollywood pedigrees. Agents, actors, directors lunched there because the room was flooded with the magical glow of the Los Angeles sun. Everyone looked good, which is massively important if one of the prime purposes of dining is to see and be seen.
But the main attraction was the food. It was adventurous and ever changing. The oh so sophisticated creative community demanded new tastes and unusual combinations. An emphasis was placed on food with a certain glamorous flair, but always slightly exotic. Quesadillas stuffed with grapes and Brie was served with a sweet pea “guacamole". So you get the idea…these new and creative taste sensations were embraced proudly and with a vengeance. We foodies rejoiced and some of my earliest experiences with the truly gourmet happened at Trumps and during this decade.
Though the restaurant came to define the 80s, nothing lasts forever. Trumps quickly closed shop about 1992 when the chef decided he had had enough. I was lucky enough to be treated to a (unknowingly) final meal there right before they closed the doors for good.
Well, I am going to breath new life into a classic Trumps appetizer. I am bringing back a simple Canapé of plantains and caviar with a black bean puree. This appetizer is really just a creative look at the classic blini with caviar. But the bold flavors, combined in a very confident and unusual manner, were what made this dish so fresh and provocative.
Sippity Sup Continues »