blackberries

Melon with Blackberry Sauce & Pistachios

Melon with Blackberry Sauce & Pistachios.

Is that really a salad? Well I wittily titled this series "Summer Salads and Some Aren't". Get it? Some are some are not! That's clever writing, huh?

But clever writing or not I still think it's a salad. In fact I'd call it a breakfast salad. Perhaps a new culinary category– but delicious nonetheless. Hey! This could even be a dessert salad...

Okay, so now we have determined that this is indeed a salad. But not all salads need a vinaigrette. Some salads are sauced. In the case of this melon and blackberry salad the dressing is simply blackberries with some lemon juice and a bit of sugar. I infused the sauce with some fresh lemon verbena leaves as well. I think the herbal quality makes this sauce more suited to a sophisticated salad than a banana split sundae.

You could use any melon you like in this salad. You could even mix your melons (now I'm blushing). I chose galia, a green fleshed musk melon that is super sweet this time of year. I made mine into perfectly shaped little melon balls (blushing again) but slices or chunks taste just as delicious.

Crunch is a texture all salads need in some measure. I made that point yesterday when I introduced this week long series of Summer Salads. I also explained exactly what a salad was in my mind. This salad gets its crunch from pistachios. Besides the green color works so well with the melon flesh (now you're blushing).

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Melon Salad with Lemon Verbena Blackberry Sauce & Pistachios

melons and blackberries
Prep time: 45
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 c blackberries
  • 2 T granulated sugar
  • 1 T fresh lemon juice
  • 6 lemon verbena leaves
  • 1 (3 1/4 to 3 1/2 lb) galia melon, or similar
  • 0.25 c shelled unsalted pistachios, toasted and roughly chopped

Directions

Set 1/4 cup of the blackberries aside as garnish. Add the rest to a blender with the sugar and lemon juice. Process until smooth. Adjust the consistency slightly with water if necessary. Press the pulp through a fine meshed strainer into a small saucepan. Discard solids. Again adjust consistency if necessary. Add the lemon verbena to the blackberry sauce, and gently heat without boiling about 4 minutes. Let the sauce cool completely, then remove the lemon verbena leaves. Divide the sauce between 4 serving bowls. Halve the melon crosswise and remove seeds. Scoop the flesh using a melon baller into uniform balls. Arrange the melon on top of the sauce in each bowl, top with reserved blackberries and pistachios.
Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto

I was in a creative mood when I made these Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto. You might even say I was getting a little experimental– as I was trying to recreate a restaurant dish without actually having the recipe.

In the end my recipe has a lot of steps and ingredients, which means it's not for everyone I know. Still, I am not here to apologize for that because this recipe is really just an introduction to what I really want to talk about. Scallops.

Scallops themselves should be simple to make. But they aren't always, are they?

Scallops should be served rare, if you cook them all the way through you are destroying their delicate nature. An overcooked scallop is a rubbery waste of money. But just because I won't submit to an overcooked scallop does not mean I want it improperly cooked either. In fact I like quite a bit of crunchy crusty searing on my scallops.

But how to best achieve this?

Well, choosing good scallops is the first step. Many scallops today are artificially pumped up and waterlogged by a chemical called STP. If possible get scallops without this additive. The proper term for an STP free scallop is "dry". Ask your fish monger if you are unsure. I have a whole post devoted to scallops and STP here.

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Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto

Scallops with mushroom risotto and blackberry sauce
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 0.5 lb fresh blackberries
  • 0.5 c red wine vinegar
  • 0.5 c water
  • 0.5 c brown sugar
  • 0.25 t red pepper flakes
  • 1 pn salt
  • 3 T unsalted butter, divided
  • 0.5 lb guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1-inch by 1/4-inch batons
  • 1 olive oil
  • 2 medium shallots, minced
  • 8 oz shiitake mushroom capps, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 0 salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 c short grain rice
  • 0.25 c dry white wine
  • 4 c vegetable broth, warmed on stove
  • 3 T flat leaf parsley, minced, plus more as garnish, optional
  • 0.5 c parmesan cheese, grated
  • 4 large (dry) sea scallops

Directions

Make the sauce: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat, combine the berries, vinegar, water, brown sugar, red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt. When they begin to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, stirring often to keep the berries from sticking to the bottom and burning; about 30 minutes. The juices will thicken slightly, add 1 tablespoon butter, stirring until incorporated. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool.

Strain pulp through sieve to remove seeds, being sure to rub all the berry pulp you can through the mesh. Discarding solids. Set aside.

Brown the guanciale: Toss the guanciale pieces into a cold cast iron skillet. Turn the heat to medium and cook, undisturbed until the gaunciale browns some. Shake the skillet and continue to cook until the pieces are crispy all over. Use a slotted spoon and transfer the guanciale to a paper towel lined plate. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the fat. Reserving the skillet for the scallops.

Make the risotto: Place a large saucepan over medium heat, add 1 tablespon olive oil and the shallots. Cook and stirring often until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms release their liquid and are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the rice and stir until the grains are well-coated and opaque, 1 to 2 minutes.. Stir in the wine and cook for 1 minute to evaporate the alcohol. Pour in 1 cup of warm broth. Stir with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed all the liquid, then add another 1 cup. Keep stirring while adding the broth a cup at a time, allowing the rice to mostly absorb the liquid before adding more. You may not need all of the broth. Taste the risotto and adjust seasoning; it should be slightly firm but tender and creamy. Stir in the parsley, butter, and cheese.

Sear the scallops: Season the scallops generously with salt and pepper. Place a the skillet containing the remaining 1 tablespoon guanciale fat over medium heat. When the fat is hot, add the scallops, and sear for 2 minutes, without moving them around. When the bottoms of the scallops look nicely browned, turn them over and sear the other side for 1 minute. Using tongs, carefully transfer the scallops to a platter lined with paper towels to blot some of the oil.

To serve: Mound the risotto in the center of each of 4 plates, set 1 scallops on top. Dot the blackberry sauce on the center of each scallop and drizzle more around the plate to taste. Garnish with guanciale and parsley. Serve warm. You may alternatively arrange the ingredients on a serving platter and let guests help themselves.

Source: Inspired by Kado Restaurant in Los Angeles
Blackberry Ketchup

Yep Really.

I am still wrangling with my obsession with summer fruit. This time it's blackberries. In fact if you yourself were a member of the bramble berry family, you might want to take out a restraining order against me. Because blackberries bring out the Glenn Close in me, and together we will not be ignored. So rather than ignore either one of us, I thought I would play a little summer catch up and use blackberries in ketchup (yikes I am bad writer...).

Now I want to be clear. This condiment is much more ketchup than sauce. And it's certainly not jam because it has a big vinegary bite. There is also enough complex spice in it to make it much more compatible with grilled meat than vanilla ice cream.

But this is no ordinary ketchup concoction. Tomatoes aren't even invited to this show, because the real stars here are the darkest and most luxurious of all the summer berries. The aptly named blackberry.

It's easy to make too. Once you have tasted it I know you'll think of all sorts of ways to serve it. But I wanted to pay honor to its ketchup-y nature so I used mine on a bun with grilled sausage. In this case classic garlic sausage with crunchy red onions and peppery watercress– oozing with intensely flavored blackberry ketchup. Sweet, and spicy with enough umami to make you scream oh, mommy!

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