eggs

Posted by Greg Henry
Lemon Buccellato

Here we go. This is the first day in my quest to become a better baker. All the best bakers use weight measurements. So I got myself a kitchen scale. You can get one too if you want to follow along and become a better baker. I chose the EatSmart Precision Pro Scale. I have even added this scale to my OpenSky Shop so it is easy for you to add a scale to your life too. Just CLICK here. To make it even easier, I have a 10% off coupon code you can use. Just type SIPPITY10 in the coupon code box at check out.

There may come a time when my baking skills outgrow this scale (keep your fingers crossed).

But in the meantime I chose this scale because it seems like a great entry-level piece of equipment. You got to learn to crawl before you walk... so I chose a scale that's easy to use, that's reliable and is digital. Besides, at $27.99 (even before the discount) it cannot be beat for function and form. Because let’s face it, this scale is sleek and good-looking. Sup! likes that.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Lemon Buccellato with Blackberries, Cream and Vin Santo

Buccellato is a traditional cake to celebrate the spring in Tuscany. It's an ancient recipe dating back to medieval times. Today there are as many versions as there are cooks, and the term has taken on a generic quality that typically means rustic cake. This lemon version is slightly sweet with a bread-like crumb. The dense cake is soaked in Vin Santo before being served with blackberry sauce and cream.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Chocolate Beet Pound Cake

So you wanna eat more veggies? You keep saying you do. But I am starting to doubt your strength of commitment in this area.

Take my personal favorite veggie. The beet. Both beetroot and beet greens are very powerful cleansers and builders of the blood. Beets are loaded with vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and C. The greens have a higher content of iron compared to spinach. They are also an excellent source of calcium, magnesium, copper, phosphorus, sodium and iron. So they are very very good for you. Yet you resist eating them.

I am not your mother however, and this is not a nutrition blog. It’s an “I am crazy in love with food and you should be too blog” But who says love can’t be good for you?

And because I have a healthy love/love relationship with beets I come here and push them on you whenever I can.

I have used them in a salad, an interesting, spicy salad that even included the beet greens. You looked the other way.

I tried to cajole you with the prettiest pasta you’ve ever seen. I even steeped beets in rum hoping to get you to enjoy them at cocktail hour. But still you beat back my beets!

Harrumph… is all I have to say.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Chocolate-Beet Pound Cake with Hazelnuts & Crème Anglaise

This cake is dense and rich and mildly sweet. It's a true pound cake, with lots of butter and eggs so don't expect a true chocolate cake. The chocolate takes a back seat in this version. And though the beets may seems odd, they make this cake very moist.

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Posted by Greg Henry
red spinach

Winter is the height of the season in Southern California for many of the greens we all love.

Kale, Spinach, Rapini, Chard, Mustard, Pea Tendrils. You see them this time of year at the market. They are so beautiful, like masterful Baroque still-life paintings of the Dutch Golden Age.  The intensity of detail of these greens can almost be off putting. Intricate shapes, complex gradations of color; thick, lush and vibrant. Cooking with them just makes you feel like an artist.

But if you are able to look past all the variations of green greens, you might notice another type of green entirely. And that green is RED!

You may be familiar with Red Leaf Lettuce. It’s a pretty alternative to the Green Leaf Lettuce you find in your local supermarket. Aside from its striking red blush, it tastes fairly similar to its more common green brother. Though, I swear it gets all black and slimy much quicker than the green guy.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Soft Boiled Eggs with Red Spinach on Toast

This is another Eggs Benedict stand in. You can't have too many of these in my opinion. This recipe replaces the fatty ham with the luscious full mouth taste of walnut oil. I used red spinach, which can be hard to find. But it's so much sweeter and nuttier that I use it whenever it's in season. Regular spinach would be fine. As would most any tender young flavorful green.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Sup! Loves Cook Books: Turquoise A Chef's Travels In Turkey

I have made this cook book available in my OpenSky Shop. Just CLICK here to be taken straight there.

“Food Porn” just what does that mean? Where did the phrase even come from? I find the casual use of that term mildly disturbing and a bit inappropriate. It’s not that I am a prude in any way (at all), but it does seem a bit disrespectful to actual pornography. Because it indicates a snobbish sort of elitism– a bit of tongue-in-cheek wryness designed to let the reader know just how hip we foodies think we must be. Do we really need to let the world know how cool and open-minded we are by embracing "pornography" in this superior way? Oh the irony of it, because (it seems to the world) that we foodies see pornography as – well, bourgeois.

Though to be fair, I suppose the term got its start because many of the same carnal (animalistic) instincts are tickled by both varieties of “porn”. Still “food porn” can embarrass me in a way that the other kind cannot.

Understanding the etymology of the term might help me embrace it and come to know what it means. Which may help me see why I find the term so ridiculous.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Zucchini Fritters with Dill

These little fritters are a popular Turkish meze. They are good hot or at room temperature served with lemon and Haydari sauce (see recipe section).

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Posted by Greg Henry
Salmon loaf en croûte


I have so many little people to thank for this recipe!

I never could have done it were it not for the bold pioneers who went before me. Although the inspiration for this recipe may come from many, I have decided to take all the credit myself! And if I cry and sniffle a little whilst taking all the credit, people will cheer me on as an underdog. The little guy who beat "the man".

That's me– The Little Engine That Could!  I believe this is the way you get ahead in the world, n'est-ce pas?

Because truthfully I did have many an inspiration when I sat down and started putting this recipe together. One of the primary "little people" involved in this dish is a quaint cook named Daniel Boulud. Perhaps you've heard if him? He runs a charming little self-named cafe on an island somewhere. It's a bit off the beaten track on East 76th Street, I believe. If you ever find yourself in that part of the world you must pop in. Tell him Sup! sez Hi...

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Posted by Greg Henry
Salmon Loaf en Croûte

This recipe takes a Fernand Point haute cuisine classic from the 1950s and simplifies it by filling the croûte with a beautiful salmon loaf. The result is super delicious and spectacular to look at– but deceptively easy if you use store bought pastry sheets.

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Posted by Greg Henry
chocalte chip cookies

Everyone thinks they make the best chocolate chip cookies. These are crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside. So I guess that makes these the best chocolate chip cookies.

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Posted by Greg Henry
chocolate souffle

In 1941 a new sort of fantasy restaurant opened in Beverly Hills. It was all pomp and circumstance. A man LIFE magazine branded “the most wonderful liar in 20th-century U.S” owned the restaurant. The restaurant was Romanoff’s. The liar was Michael Romanoff.

Michael “Mike” Romanoff arrived in Hollywood about 1927 and introduced himself as Prince Michael Dimitri Alexandrovich Obolensky-Romanoff, nephew of Czar Nicholas II. Everyone in Hollywood knew he wasn't a Prince, but in a town full of pretenders, it hardly mattered, and "Prince Michael" enjoyed great success as a restauranteur.

By the time he opened Romanoff’s in 1941 he was very well connected to the movie folk of old Hollywood. David Niven was a very close friend, and in his book Bring on the Empty Horses Niven devotes an entire chapter to the colorful “Prince” Romanoff.

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Posted by Greg Henry
romanoff's chocolate souffle

In 1941 a new sort of fantasy restaurant opened in Beverly Hills. It was all pomp and circumstance. A man LIFE magazine branded “the most wonderful liar in 20th-century U.S” owned the restaurant. The restaurant was Romanoff’s. The liar was Michael Romanoff.

Michael “Mike” Romanoff arrived in Hollywood about 1927 and introduced himself as Prince Michael Dimitri Alexandrovich Obolensky-Romanoff, nephew of Czar Nicholas II. Everyone in Hollywood knew he wasn't a Prince, but in a town full of pretenders, it hardly mattered, and "Prince Michael" enjoyed great success as a restauranteur.

By the time he opened Romanoff’s in 1941 he was very well connected to the movie folk of old Hollywood. David Niven was a very close friend, and in his book Bring on the Empty Horses Niven devotes an entire chapter to the colorful “Prince” Romanoff.

It was connections such as these that allowed his restaurant to open with instant success. The first location was 326 N. Rodeo Drive, and it was so popular that Romanoff had trouble appeasing his high profile diners. It seems there were only 4 booths across from the bar and these were quickly deemed the “A” tables. Squabbles developed between the stars and industry moguls about getting one of those four tables during the prime lunch and dinner hours.

The Prince’s answer was to move to larger quarters at 240 S. Rodeo Drive. There he had 24 custom booths designed, all of equal proportion. Despite his forethought and planning he was soon faced with the same problem. Despite the booths' similarities, the four booths to the left of the entrance became the choice tables and the most sought after. This is the restaurant where the the phrase “seated in Siberia” started and came to mean any table other than the four on the “good side” of the staircase.

The food was French and first rate. Romanoff may not have been a Prince but his extensive travels and impeccable taste showed themselves well at Romanoff’s. Specialties included coulibiac of salmon, bouillabaisse Marseillaise, and a particularly showy saddle of lamb presented tableside on a silver cart.

Desserts were a must at Romanoff’s and were high drama. Flaming versions of cherries jubilee and crepes Suzette were popular, but the house specialty was a then practically unknown little confection: a chocolate soufflé. They were served in individual ramekins and were the perfect ending to a sumptuous meal. I have chosen this as my dessert item when I go to Panama to lead a cooking demonstration highlighting recipes from the great restaurants of Hollywood.

Romanoff’s success lasted well into the 50s. His clients were quite loyal and returned again and again throughout the years. However, as tastes began to change, the diners at Romanoff’s began to look like the “old guard” of Hollywood. The younger crowd preferred a more casual ambiance and soon only the regulars showed up.

Romanoff also began to espouse his political opinions at the restaurant. He developed a friendship with J. Edgar Hoover and other highly placed Republicans. He even began to spout anti-communist propaganda to diners at the tables. The smart set found this offensive, especially considering the toll that the McCarthy trials were having on this creative community. Even the old guard stopped by less and less.

Romanoff had influential friends, which was the key to his success, and as they abandoned him he fell deeper into debt. An attempt to recreate the magic of Romanoff’s in Palm Springs ended badly when his newly opened casual bistro in called Rocks had a disastrous opening.

In 1958 an act of Congress signed by President Eisenhower allowed Romanoff to achieve his lifelong dream. He became an American citizen. The restaurant limped along until 1962 when Billy Wilder, Jack, Benny, Jack Warner and Otto Preminger put financial backing behind longtime Romanoff’s maitre d’Kurt Niklas to open a new restaurant. This restaurant was called The Bistro and remains a Hollywood powerhouse to this day.

Romanoff's closed on New Years Eve of that same year.

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Posted by Greg Henry
Original Cobb Salad

The Brown Derby is perhaps the most well known of all the iconic restaurants of old Hollywood. Partly due to Lucille Ball and the famous scene between her and the actor William Holden in the I Love Lucy television series of the 1950s.

So, naturally when I am in Panama presenting recipes from classic Hollywood restaurants to Boquete Gourmet I want to include a recipe from this restaurant. It should be fairly easy for me too, because I own the old cookbook from Marjorie Child Husted, The Brown Derby Cookbook. But in flipping through this book I can see one thing right off the bat. Our styles in eating have changed drastically since the era of the Golden Age of Hollywood. It’s hard to imagine Brad Pitt or Halle Berry sitting down to some of the dishes featured in this book. The food is both fussy and simplistic if that’s possible. I mean many of the dishes call for pastry cream and elaborately turned (but grossed overcooked) vegetables. But they are simple in the fact that they are not much more creative than some sort of meat and potatoes presentation with a cream sauce.

The book is interesting from a historical perspective but I don’t really want to cook anything from this book.

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Posted by Greg Henry
cobb salad

It seems that the famous Cobb Salad was invented at the Brown Derby by the owner as a midnight snack for a special patron. It has since been copied and adapted through the generations. It has morphed countless times and falls into the category of the chop salad that can feature pretty much any ingredient your mind can think of.

It seems back in 1937, Bob Cobb, then owner of The Brown Derby, was alerted that Sid Grauman had shown up at the restaurant looking to be seated. It was quite obvious that he was too drunk to be seated in the main dining room, but too important to be turned away. Bob pulled Sid into the kitchen to get the man fed. It was quite late and Bob knew the refrigerators were full of partially prepped ingredients from all the meals that had been served that night. Opening a huge refrigerator, he hurriedly pulled whatever his hands first touched. A head of iceberg lettuce, an avocado, some romaine, watercress, tomatoes, some cold breast of chicken, hard-boiled eggs, chives, cheese and some of the restaurants own version of an old-fashioned French dressing. He started chopping perhaps to distract Sid, or perhaps he had a plan.

Whatever the case The Cobb salad was born. The next day to repay his friend’s kindness Sid Grauman arrived at the restaurant for lunch and heartily asked to be served “The Cobb Salad”.

Cobb's midnight invention became an overnight sensation with Derby customers, people like movie mogul Jack Warner, who regularly dispatched his chauffeur to pick up a carton of this salad.

How true this story is I cannot say, but it has become part of the lore of Hollywood. Which makes this salad the perfect choice for my evening in Panama featuring legendary recipes from famed Hollywood restaurants. The version I have decided to present is very close to what Bob may have served Sid and has earned the moniker The Brown Derby Original Cobb Salad.

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