lemon juice

Crudo of yellowtail with kumquats and jalapenos

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I have some funny sounding words to throw at you for today's Market Matters from the Hollywood Farmers Market. Crudo & Kumquat.

You probably know what kumquats are. But do you love them? I bet you do, or at least would if you knew what to do with them. They are one of the lesser known and most misunderstood members of the large and diverse citrus family. The  funny thing about a kumquat is it's most prized for it's sweet skin. They are mostly enjoyed by simply popping one into your mouth and eating it whole. When you do this you will experience a rush of flavor. They are that intense. Like little flavor bombs. I see kumquats as the "bon-bon" of the citrus world.

I decided these "flavor bombs" deserved some special attention. Especially this time of year in Southern California when kumquats are at their peak. In Googling around for kumquats, I came across the word sitting next to another funny word. Crudo. Which, like sashimi is simply raw fish. Crudo may not be the prettiest sounding name to English speaking ears, but crudo has been music to the tastebuds of Italians for generations. Especially in regions like Puglia and Marche. There, thin slices of raw fish are flavored with whatever ingredients at hand– often in combinations far bolder than you might find at the best sushi bars.

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Yellowtail Crudo With Kumquats & Jalapeño

Home » Yellowtail Crudo With Kumquats & Jalapeño
Prep time: 30
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 jalapeño
  • 1 T red onion, minced
  • 1 t kosher salt
  • 0.25 c white wine vinegar
  • 0.25 c water
  • 8 oz sushi grade yellowtail
  • 3 kumquats
  • 1 pn fleur de sel, or to taste
  • 1 T fresh mint leaves
  • 1 fresh lemon wedge
  • 1 oz extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Slice the jalapeño and place in a bowl. Add the red onion, sprinkle with kosher salt and toss together, then set aside.

In a small sauce pot, combine the vinegar and water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, pour pickling liquid over the bowl of chilis and onion. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, slice the fish into 1/4-inch slices and arrange on a plate. Season each slice of fish with a few grains of fleur de sel, to taste.


Slice the kumquats thinly, picking out and disgarding any seeds, and place a few on each slice of fish. Add 1 or 2 pickled chilis to each piece of fish, along with abit of pickled minced onion.


Thinly slice, or chiffonade, the mint by stacking the leaves and sprinkle the mint over the entire dish. Squeeze a wedge of lemon on the fish. Drizzle a fine stream of good olive oil and serve immediately.

Source: Adapted from Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen
sardine sandwich with pickled red onion

Sardines? Egads no! They look like fish, they smell like fish and they taste like fish. That's enough information to get many of us to swim for the hills. If there was ever a little fishy in need of a makeover it's the sardine. Un-loved and under-appreciated do not begin to describe the loathing attached to this surprisingly healthy and completely delicious tasting fish. I'll start the makeover with a sandwich that I know you'll love, if you just let yourself get past all those fishy miscoceptions. Sardine Sandwich with Horseradish Cream & Pickled Red Onion

Sardines are super tasty. Really they are. Oh, believe me, I know what you’re thinking. Even the very word seems a little unappetizing. Sar-deeeens. Just the phrase sardine sandwich can clear a room to the point of echos. Say it out loud and see for yourself. "Sardine Sandwich... anyone? anyone?"

But now I'm going to ask you to do something. I'm going to ask you to listen to my case for sardines. Especially canned sardines. First off, they're terrific from an environmental perspective. Seafood Watch rates sardines as a "Best Choice", because they're an abundant, fast growing fish that's low on the food chain and able to sustain its population. Sardines feed solely on plankton. Which may sound gross but what that means is they don’t eat other fish which may contain mercury or PCB’s. Unlike that canned tuna we're so fond of, sardines aren't bio-accumulating these toxins.

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Sardine Sandwich with Horseradish Cream & Pickled Red Onion

Sardine sandwich
Prep time: 5
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 0.25 c rice-wine vinegar
  • 1 t sugar
  • 1 t black peppercorns
  • 0.5 small onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 T mayonnaise
  • 1 T prepared horseradish
  • 0.5 t fresh lemon juice
  • 2 sli pumpernickle bread, toasted
  • 2 leaves red lettuce
  • 4 oz canned sardines packed in oil, drained plus 2 tsp reserved oil
  • 1 roasted red bell pepper, cut into thin strips
  • 1 pn each kosher salt and black pepper

Directions

Bring vinegar, sugar, and peppercorns to a boil in a small saucepan. Add onions and remove from heat; let sit for 30 minutes, then chill. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, horseradish, and lemon juice; spread mixture over each slice of bread, and top each with 1 lettuce leaf. Divide sardines evenly between sandwiches, and top with pepper and pickled onions. Drizzle with reserved oil, and season with salt and pepper.

Source: From Saveur Magazine
Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad and Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto

The Hollywood Farmers Market inspires me. This Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad & Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto is proof.

I didn't wake up this morning thinking that this was what I wanted for lunch. But a trip up and down Ivar filled my bag with all the ingredients (except the garbanzo beans) that I needed to fully realize this recipe. I guess it's been sleeping inside me for some time. Waiting for its moment.

It's moment came when miner's lettuce showed itself to me. It was right there. Just across the street from the Hollywood branch of the public library. Saying, "Look at me, I am an ingredient you've read about but have never used before. Lettuce make some trouble".

It was practically a illicit proposal, I'll have you know. I mean I always knew greens were hot. But these greens were smokin'! How could I resist? I am mean if lettuce could talk, this lettuce was screaming, "Take me as I am, or watch me as I go."

So I countered, "If beauty were time, you'd be eternity." After all, if you know me at all then you know "I can resist everything except temptation!"

GREG

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