red wine

cabbage soup with chestnuts and pancetta

Boiled cabbage. There I said it.

That’s because I have more selfishness for you. This time it’s selfish cabbage soup with chestnuts and pancetta. I said I was going to only cook things that appealed to me at the most basic level for a while and I meant it. Cabbage appeals to me. It's not a glamorous vegetable. Many otherwise intelligent people shun cabbage. Especially boiled cabbage. But to me it's one of those elemental foods I've been trying to get back to all week. Besides, I've included chestnuts and pancetta to soften the shock of boiled cabbage.

You see, I believe cabbage can help me reboot! I've been feeling like my blog is getting away from me. So I've spent the last few posts trying to focus on the foods I love. Because lately I've put too much of my attention on exterior forces: numbers, popularity, publicists, trends. Then there’s FoodBuzz, I found myself bending to the new realities there too.

Don’t get me wrong. Numbers are important to a blog, and I'm kind of a numbers wonk. Publicists also play an important role in the success of a blog. And FoodBuzz. I bet nobody loves FoodBuzz more than me. I credit FoodBuzz (along with TasteSpotting and FoodGawker) with being the glue that brings food bloggers together and transforms us into a community. In fact its this very glue that I love most about blogging. So I'm not dissing any of these outside influencers.

But just because those entities do so much good for our community doesn’t mean they're always right when it comes to what's best for us as individuals. What we do with this community is entirely up to us. What’s a community if not a collection of individuals with shared interests and the means to share them? What’s a blog if not a reflection of its individual author?

Sippity Sup Continues »

Chesnut, Pancetta & Cabbage Soup

Cabbage Soup with chestnuts and pancetta
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 20 raw chestnuts
  • 6 c water
  • 1 T salt
  • 1 cavolo nero or savoy cabbage, tough outer leaves removed
  • 2 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 7 oz pancetta, sliced thin and cut crosswise into ribbons
  • 1 large onion, cut in 1/4" dice
  • 3 clv garlic, peeled and minced
  • 2 t rosemary leaves
  • 1 c red wine
  • 0 salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

Find the flat side of each chestnut and cut a large X with a sharp paring knife all the way through the skin. Be very careful, it's easy to slip on the surface of the chestnut. I wear a silicon glove. Place chestnuts on a shallow baking pan and place in the oven to roast for about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on size of nuts. Shake pan several times to rotate chestnuts so they will cook evenly. Peel roasted chestnuts as soon as they are cool enough to handle. Once they cool completely, they are difficult to peel. Roughly chop the peeled nuts. Set aside. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a large stock pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Add the chopped cabbage and cook about 15 minutes. Turn the heat off and cover the pot to keep warm. Warm the olive oil in a very large skillet set over medium heat. Add the pancetta, and cook stirring often, until it just begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often about 3 more minutes, until the onion softens. Add the rosemary and garlic, cooking another 2 or 3 minutes. Using tongs move about half of the cabbage to the skillet with the onion mixture. Add the wine to the skillet and cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid is evaporated. Turn off the heat and set aside. Using an immersion blender puree the remaining cabbage and its cooking liquid in the stock pot. Add the reserved onion mixture, stirring to incorporate. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Using the immersion blender, blend the soup just a little bit to get a variable texture. It can be as rough or smooth as you prefer. Add half the reserved chestnuts and bring the soup to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Serve the soup hot with an garnish of remaining chestnuts and a drizzle of olive oil.

Notes:

serves 6 This soup is particular beautiful if you can find a deeply purple cavolo nero cabbage. Which is not the same thing as a red cabbage. Use green savoy if a cavalo nero is not available. Source: Adapted from The Food of Italy
Spiced Salmon with Wine Braised Shallots, Edamame & Sunchoke Puree from Sippity

I hope to tear down a few walls here today. I plan to do it with an unsual recipe for Spiced Salmon with Wine Braised Shallots, Edamame & Sunchoke Puree, I adapted from Holly Peterson, CIA.

The wall that's about to tumble today is the old belief that red wine is for meat and white wine is for fish. 9 out of 10 people you ask will agree with this premise. And there's a lot of conventional wisdom (and even some science) supporting this malarkey. But like all conventional wisdom (and all malarkey for that matter), it's never as simple as the simpletons would have you believe. It’s a mantra we've heard regularly, so we tend to stick to it rigidly– even when our own palates tell us otherwise.

Sure white wines are generally a good choice for fish. Fish itself is lighter and more delicate in flavor than meat dishes. One of the first 'rules' in pairing food with wine is the proper balance of ‘weight’ and ‘texture’ between the food and wine, so at the most basic level it makes perfect sense to choose white wine with fish and red wine with the heavier textures found in meat.

Sippity Sup Continues »

Spiced Salmon with Wine Braised Shallots, Edamame & Sunchoke Puree

Spiced Salmon with Wine Braised Shallots, Edamame & Sunchoke Puree
Prep time: 60
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 1.5 lb sunchokes, also known as jerusalem artichokes
  • 1 medium yukon gold potato
  • 3 T unsalted butter, divided
  • 0 coarse salt, as needed
  • 1 t whole black peppercorns
  • 1 t cumin seeds
  • 1 t coriander seeds
  • 1 t mustard seeds
  • 2 t sugar, divided
  • 8 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1.5 c light, fruity red wine, such as zinfandel
  • 1 c fresh or frozen shelled edamame
  • 0.5 c chicken stock
  • 0 freshly cracked black pepper, as needed
  • 1 t extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 t mint leaves, minced
  • 4 skinless salmon fillets, about 5-6 oz each

Directions

Make the sunchoke puree: Fill large saucepan with water. Peel sunchokes and potatoes. Cut them into 2-inch chunks and put them in a saucepan with just enough milk to cover, then add about 1-inch more of water. Add a generous pinch of salt and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until sunchokes and potatoes are very tender, about 12 minutes. Drain well. Transfer sunchokes and potatoes to processor; add butter and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. May be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand uncovered at room temperature. Rewarm over medium-low heat before serving. Prepare the spice rub: Add black peppercorns, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, mustard seeds 1 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1 1/2 teaspoon salt to the bowl of a mortar and pestle. Grind the mixture well, but not completely to a fine powder. Pour it into a wide shallow bowl and set aside. Braise the shallots: Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a 10-inch saute pan set over medium-low heat. When the butter melts add 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the shallot slices and stir to coat well. Cook about 3 minutes until the shallots begin to soften. Add the wine, and continue cooking, stirring often, until the wine has evaporated and the shallots are deeply red and jammy looking. About 45 minutes. Cover and keep warm until serving. If the edamame are frozen, briefly blanch them in boiling water. Drain. In a 1 1/2 quart saucepan set over medium heat, warm the edamame 1/2 cup chicken stock with a pinch of salt and black pepper. About 2 minutes total. Just before serving stir in 1 teaspoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon minced mint leaves. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. Roll each salmon fillet in the ground spice mixture until well coated on all sides. Place each fillet onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Place the sheet onto the middle rack of the oven and bake 20 to 25 minutes, until barely cooked through and still a bit jiggly or rare. A few moment longer if you prefer the fish cooked through. Do not overcook however. To serve: Place a cup or so of the sunchoke puree on each plate. Nestle a fillet up against the puree and drape some of the shallots across the top. Spoon 2 heaping tablespoons of edamame onto each fillet with a drizzle of olive oil and serve immediately.

Notes:

serves 4 Source: Inspired by CIA instructor Holly Peterson

Potato Crusted Filet Mignon with Arugula & Pomegranate Sauce

Potato Crusted Filet Mignon with Arugula & Pomegranate Sauce
Prep time: 45
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 2 c merlot, or other red wine
  • 8 oz pomegranate juice
  • 4 oz balsamic vinegar
  • 1 c pomegranate molasses, or substitute with standard molasses
  • 1 (6 oz) package of arugula leaves, cleaned and dried
  • 0 vegetable oil
  • 0 salt and pepper, to taste
  • 2 medium russet or other starchy potatoes
  • 2 T unsalted butter
  • 2 extra thick fillet mignons

Directions

Make the sauce: Heat all the ingredients in a heavy bottomed sauce pan set over medium heat. When the mixture comes to a low boil, lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces to a syrupy consistency, about 1 hour. This recipe makes more sauce than you will need. You may store leftover sauce in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Prep the filets: Prehreat oven to 400 degrees F. Wilt the arugula in a scant amount of vegetable oil, season with salt and pepper. Transfer the arugula to a colander, pressing on it to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Roughly chop and set aside. Peel the potatoes. Using a mandoline with a julienne blade, slice the potatoes crosswise into 2" matchsticks. Then very roughly chop them to get a nice variety of sizes from 1/2" to about 1 1/2" long. Bring a medium-sized pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the potatoes about 20 seconds. Drain them well. Transfer them to a paper towel lined plate and pat dry with more paper towels. You want them as dry as possible. Lay out a section of plastic wrap on the work surface. Make a circle of potatoes about twice the size of your filets and about 3/4" thick. Season one of the filets on both sides with more salt and pepper. Be generous. Place the meat onto the center of the potatoes. Top it with half the wilted arugula and another 1/2" of potatoes. Then use the plastic wrap to assist you in fully encasing the meat with potatoes by carefully pulling it up and around the meat sealing the plastic wrap tightly on the top. Repeat this process with the other filet and place them in the freezer about 10 minutes before proceeding. Heat about 1/4" vegetable oil in a 10-12" cast iron or heavy bottomed oven safe skillet. Heat the oil to shimmering and test the temperature with a few stray shards of potato. They should get golden brown in about 1 minute. Adjust temperature if necessary. Remove the filets from the freezer and carefully unwrap them. Then invert each one onto a large spatula and carefully peel off the plastic wrap. Not all of the potatoes will stick, and that is fine. But you may need to press a few shards into place to assure an even, fairly thick coating. Gently slide the filet into the hot oil. Then immediately repeat the process with the second fillet. Let the filets cook two or three minutes with out moving them. Once the potatoes are golden brown very carefully flip each filet, and transfer the skillet to the preheated oven. Cook the meat until the interior temperature reads 120 degrees on an instant read thermometer for rare, 125 degrees for medium rare. About 5-7 minutes. Transferring them to a cutting board to rest about 7 minutes. They will continue to cook a bit as they rest. To serve: Gently reheat the pomegranate sauce. Adding the butter and stirring constantly as it melts. Once it has fully emulsified, cut each fillet in half, taking care to keep the potato crust intact. Transfer both halves of each fillet to a warmed dinner plates. Spoon a couple of tablespoons onto the plate and serve immediately.

Notes:

serves 2