sweet potatoes

making latkes

Happy Hanukkah! Now, I'm not Jewish. But I feel happy to send you this greeting no matter your religious associations. Because around my house we like to say I am Jewish adjacent, that's because my partner is Sephardic. The differences between Sephardic Jews and Ashkenazi Jews are partly cultural and partly religious. These two branches of Judaism separated at one time by geography still retain many of their distinct culinary traditions.

One of these Ashkenazi culinary holiday traditions is the latke– joyously served as part of a Hanukkah celebration.

The Gentiles among us may ask "What makes a potato pancake, or more simply a potato fritter, a latke? "Well my reading tells me that a latke is much more than a pancake made from fried potatoes. In fact the potato latke is symbolic. It's a potato pancake on the outside but it represents the "humble man's" neshamah or what we in English might describe as a soul.

Geez (pardon the expression) that's a whole lotta holiday pressure to put onto one little pancake? But it does explain how the latke came to represent an integral part of this holiday for most Ashkenazi Jews.

But potato latkes aren't as traditional an element in the Sephardic Hanukkah tradition. In fact weren't even originally a part of Ashkenazi Hanukkah cuisine either.

Sippity Sup Continues »

Sweet Potato Latke

sweet potato latke
Prep time: 20
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 large sweet potato, about 1 lb
  • 1 medium sweet potato, about 1/2 lb
  • 0 salt and white pepper, to taste
  • 0.5 c all purpose flour
  • 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
  • 0 vegetable oil for fryer, as needed
  • 2 cg applesauce
  • 3 scallions, finely sliced
  • 1 cg sour cream

Directions

Using a box grater, or the equivilant sized grating disc on a food processor, grate the sweet and the russet potato. Combine them both in a large bowl. Season with salt and a pinch of white pepper. Toss to combine.

Add flour and stir the mixture together well to distribute the flour evenly. Add eggs continuing to stir and mix. In a large cast iron skillet or non-stick frying pan set over medium heat, heat about 1/4" deep of vegetable oil. While the oil heats form the potato mixture into 3-inch rounds that are about 1/2-inch thick, squeeze out as much of the moisture as you can as you form them.

Using a spatula so that the latkes do not fall apart carefully add them to the hot oil, working with 2 or 3 at a time. Fry until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. Remove to a paper-towel lined plate and season with more salt. Repeat this procedure with all of the grated potato mixture, adding more oil to the pan as necessary. Serve with applesauce, green onions and sour cream.

sweet potato gratin

I started this Sweet Potato Gratin without a recipe. Heck, I started it without a plan. All I knew was I wanted sweet potatoes like my mother used to make. My mother used to make sweet potatoes with maple syrup and caramelized onions. Hers were done in a mash. They were delicious but in my opinion they didn't take advantage of the very thing sweet potatoes do best. Sweet potatoes caramelize like no vegetable I know. In other words they need to be baked or roasted.

But as I started prepping I decided that a sweet potato gratin might be the direction I wanted to go. I had already boiled and sliced the potatoes. I had already slow cooked some Sweet 100 tomatoes. Caramelized onions were filling the house with their marvelous fragrance.

Was it too late to turn this into a gratin? Well I didn't prep a gratin pan. I already had a cake pan lined with parchment and drizzled with maple syrup all ready to go. I even had laid out an attractive layer of potato slices. But still I stopped what I was doing and ran to the computer. Just what was a gratin, I wondered.

Well it turns out a gratin is typically a vegetable baked with cheese and topped with crunchy breadcrumbs. Hmmm. Was I past the point of no return in making this into a gratin. Well yes and no. I had big chunks of potato and no plan for cheese. But I had some excellent aged goat cheese in the fridge and who says gratins can't have chunky potatoes!

Sippity Sup Continues »

Sweet Potato & Onion Upside Down Gratin

Sweet Potato & Onion Upside Down Gratin
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 7 c cherry or grape tomatoes
  • 2 T olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  • 1 lb small sweet potatoes, about 2-inches diameter at widest
  • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 T maple syrup
  • 1 T thyme leaves
  • 5 oz aged (hard) goat's cheese, sliced
  • 2 T unsalted butter
  • 1 c panko breadcrumbs

Directions

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Halve the tomatoes and place them cut-side up on a baking-sheet. Drizzle over some olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in the oven to dry for 1 hour & 15 minutes to dry. Too much juice will make the gratin difficult to unmold.

Meanwhile, cook the whole potatoes, with their peels in boiling salted water for 15 minutes. They should get a bit soft, but not thoroughly cooked. Drain and let cool. Trim a bit of the pointy ends off each potato, then cut into 3/4-inch thick rounds.

In a medium sauté pan cook the onion over medium heat with 2 tablespoons oil and a big pinch of salt , stirring often, until lightly caramelized to golden brown. About 18 minutes. Once you've prepared all the vegetables, brush a 9" cake pan with a bit of oil, then line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.

Pour the maple syrup into the cake tin and tilt it to spread evenly over the bottom. Scatter half of the thyme leaves on top of the syrup. Lay the potato slices close together, cut-sides down, on the bottom of the tin. Gently press the onion and tomatoes into the gaps and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Spread the slices of goat's cheese evenly on top. At this stage you can chill the gratin for up to 24 hours.

When ready to bake. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Bake the gratin for 25 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 350 degrees F and continue baking for another 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked.

While the gratin bakes prepare the breadcrumbs. In a small skillet set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the panko and toast, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining thyme leaves, and a pinch of salt. Set aside.

When the gratin is finished cooking remove it from the oven and let rest for two minutes and no more. Hold an inverted plate firmly on top of the pan and carefully but briskly turn them over together, then carefully lift off the pan.

Sprinkle each individual serving with toasted bread crumbs. Serve warm.

sweet potato salad

I'm on day five of a week long series dedicated to the summer salad. So far all of my salads have been a bit special. Salads that could work as a main course– or salads that feature a special ingredient. But today I have a salad that is a side dish. Meaning it's supposed to play second fiddle to whatever else is served on the plate.

Which doesn't mean it's not special in it's own simple (quiet) way. Besides, how can a discussion of summer salads go by without a proper nod to potato salad? Today's salad fills that void. But it ain't no plain ole potato salad. It's a Chilled Sweet Potato Salad with Lime and Chili Oil.

Who says sweet potatoes (or even yams) need to be cold weather food? Not me. Why not shake up your ideas about potato salad. So leave the mayo in the fridge and have a look at what I can do with the humble (sweet) potato. My version is a little sweet, a little sour and even a little spicy. It's so me. So of course I love it. But as much as I love it I gotta say it's very second fiddle. Which isn't a bad thing. Except I just got through cooking with Linda of Salty Seattle, right here in my own kitchen. She was giving me a little lesson in molecular gastronomy (is that the right term?).

We were using chemicals like calcium chloride and sodium alginate to create little bouncy balls of pea and mint. They were pretty damn spectacular, but not at all second fiddle.

So as I sit here pecking away at this keyboard trying to explain how or why my simple potato salad deserves your attention I feel a little like the kid whose bird's nest show and tell flopped when Johnny SoAndSo brought a moon rock to class. It almost made me feel sorry for my simple little salad.

But you know what? Just look at the color of my salad. It might not bounce and squirt. But man oh man, does it taste good on the plate with grilled chicken on a hot summer's day.

Sippity Sup Continues »