mozzarella

Mushroom, Goat Cheese & Mint Hand Pies

Can you say Mushroom, Goat Cheese & Mint Hand-Pie? I ask because it might seem like an unusual combination of flavors. Especially for a pie. But actually mushrooms, goat cheese and mint are an inspired combination. I should know because Russ Parsons from the LA Times inspired me to include this trio in a quesadilla way back in 2010. It was a culinary highlight that year, and a top post here at Sippity Sup.

In fact the combination of mushrooms, goat cheese and mint was one of the highlights of 2011 for me too. Because last year I made a mushroom, goat cheese and mint omelette, I put mushrooms, goat cheese and mint on a turkey burger, I even tried my hand with mushroom, goat cheese and mint muffaletta. I just didn't include any of those experiments on this blog. Mostly because as good as they were, none of them stood quite as tall in my mind as did that first Mushroom Goat Cheese & Mint Quesadilla.

The trick is how to bring these flavors back to Sippity Sup in a way that suits the new year and all the things that interest me in 2012. Pie is high on that list. I love savory pies because the combination of a tender, salted crust and a hearty filling is so elementally simple yet endlessly varied. Pies are the culinary equivalent of a well-loved blanket. But what about hand-pies? They are smaller and more portable, making them terrific addition to the busy beginning of a new year. I like to call them palm-sized pastries. I think they are the perfect pouch for mushrooms, goat cheese and mint to snuggle into. GREG

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Mushroom, Goat Cheese & Mint Hand Pies

Mushroom, Goat Cheese & Mint Hand Pies
Prep time: 60
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 basic savory pie recipe
  • 1 t flour for rolling surface
  • 2 T unsalted butter
  • 1 lb button mushroom, sliced
  • 0.5 t kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
  • 2 T shallots, peeled & minced
  • 2 T mint leaves, minced
  • 0.25 c fresh goat cheese
  • 0.25 c low-moisture mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch dice

Directions

Choose and prepare the Basic Savory Pie Pastry recipe. Divide dough in half, shape it into 2 evenly-sized squares about 5-inches wide and 3/4-inch thick. Wrap them in plastic. Refrigerate dough for at least 1 hour (or up to 2 days), or freeze for up to 1 month.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out both squares of cold, but un-frozen dough separately, one at a time, into approximately 11-inch squares. Then trim them cleanly into a 10-inch square. Cut each 10-inch square into quarters, giving you eight, 5-inch square pieces of pastry. Transfer them to 2 parchment lined baking sheets, 4 to a sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and keep refrigerated while you make the filling.

Heat oven to 425 degrees, with racks in the upper and lower thirds.

Melt the butter in a medium-sized skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the sliced mushrooms and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms have given up their moisture, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook until the they have softened and the mushrooms are quite tender, about 5 more minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the mint and the goat cheese until the mushrooms are well coated in a thick creamy sauce. Set aside.

Get the pastry squares from the refrigerator. Working with the pastry square in place, pile the mozzarella cubes, evenly distributed, onto the center of each square leaving about a 1-inch border all around. Place about 1/4 cup of the mushroom filling on top of the mozzarella on each of the squares. Working one at a time fold up all four corners around the filling, so that the points meet near the center but do not touch (leave about 1/4 inch of space between them). Press lightly to distribute the filling somewhat, being careful not to let any escape. Repeat with the remaining squares of filled dough.

Brush the exposed tops and edges of the dough of each hand pie with the egg wash and sprinkle with kosher salt. Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until pies are golden brown and filling is set, about 25 to 30 minutes. Cool slightly on a wire rack. Serve warm.

Cannelloni with radicchio and walnuts

What's with the wacky weather? Hot one day, cold the next. I live in Southern California so I have come to expect these crazy fluctuations this time of year, but honestly what is a seasonal cook like me supposed to do?

How about Cannelloni al Radicchio? The perfect dish for 100 degree weather and wild Santa Anna winds right?

You see I've got cannelloni on the brain because it seems like just yesterday that I awoke to a chilly morning leading to a rainy afternoon. So I curled up with a new cookbook. I chose The Glorious Pasta of Italy by Dominica Marchetti to warm my soul that morning. You see it's been sitting on top of my book pile all summer waiting for my attention. Chronicle Books sent it to me so I knew it was bound to be a winner.

Have you ever opened a book to the exact page you wanted (without even knowing what you wanted)? Well that's what happened that cool morning last week. Cannelloni al Radicchio swept me in and would not let me out of its warm embrace. So I went out into the cold, cold rain and picked me up some radicchio. But by the time I got home, this and that and some more of the other thing happened. Meaning, there just wasn't time to make egg pasta, homemade béchamel and all the other lovely ingredients that make this recipe such a seasonal winner.

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Cannelloni al Radicchio

cannelloni with walnuts
Prep time: 120
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 2 T extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 shallots,halved & thinly sliced
  • 2 heads radicchio, quartered through the stem end, cored & finely shredded
  • 1 T kosher saly, plus more as needed
  • 1 pn black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 1.5 c whole cows milk ricotta, drained
  • 8 oz fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into small dice
  • 1 oz batch fresh egg pasta, cut into lasagna noodles
  • 3 c bechamel sauce, slightly heated
  • 1 T unsalted butter
  • 1.5 c parmigiano-reggiano, grated
  • 0.25 c walnuts, coarsely chopped

Directions

Warm the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan placed over medium heat. Add the shallots and stir to coat them with the oil. Sauté, stirring from time to time, for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the shallots are soft and translucent but not browned. Add the radicchio and sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and a generous grind of pepper. Cover the pan, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook the radicchio for about 8 minutes, or until wilted. Uncover the pan and use tongs to toss the radicchio. Cook for another minute or two, or until the radicchio is purple-brown, wilted, and just tender. Remove from the heat and let the radicchio cool to room temperature in the pan. Remove a handful of the radicchio and set it aside to garnish the cannelloni.

In a large bowl, work the ricotta with a fork until it is creamy. Fold in the mozzarella. Add the radicchio in the frying pan to the cheese mixture and fold to distribute evenly.

Spread a clean tablecloth or several clean dish/tea towels on a clean, flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, the béchamel, and the radicchio-cheese filling. Place a large bowl filled with ice water near the stove for briefly immersing the cooked lasagne noodles to remove excess starch.

Heat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5. Lightly coat two 8-by-12-in/20-by-30.5-cm baking dishes with the butter.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Carefully drop in 4 or 5 lasagna noodles, taking care not to crowd the pot. Boil the pasta for about 1 minute; fresh pasta cooks quickly and the lasagna noodles should be slightly underdone. Use a large skimmer to remove the lasagna noodles from the pot and gently immerse them in the bowl of ice water. Use the skimmer to remove the noodles; let them drip and then spread them out on the tablecloth. Continue to cook, cool, and spread out the lasagna noodles until you have cooked and cooled all of them.

Spread a thick layer of béchamel sauce (about 3/4 cup/180 ml per dish) in the bottom of each prepared baking dish.

Place a lasagna rectangle on a clean work surface. Spoon about 2 tbsp of the radicchio-cheese filling onto the center, and spread it out with the back of the spoon, leaving a border all around. Roll up the pasta rectangle, cigar style, and place it, seam-side down, in one of the prepared baking dishes. Continue to fill and roll the cannelloni, arranging 10 cannelloni in each dish.

Divide the remaining béchamel between the 2 baking dishes, spreading it over the filled cannelloni. Strew a little of the reserved radicchio over the top in uneven clumps. Sprinkle the Parmigiano cheese and then the walnuts (if using) over the cannelloni. Cover the dishes with aluminum foil.

Bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for an additional 20 minutes, or until the cheese and béchamel sauce are bubbly and the top is golden brown. Serve the cannelloni piping hot from the oven.

Simplify: The radicchio filling may be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Store-bought dried cannelloni or dried lasagna noodles may be substituted for the fresh ones. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cooking.

If you do not want to make homemade pasta dough and stretch it into sheets, you can substitute store-bought fresh egg pasta sheets, available at gourmet food shops, Italian food stores, and well-stocked supermarkets, and cut them into lasagna noodles. 

Notes:

Béchamel Sauce

This is a good all-purpose white sauce. In this book, it is used in several recipes, including Lasagne Verde alla Bolognese and Cannelloni al Radicchio. You can vary it by adding shredded cheese (at which point it becomes a Mornay sauce), by perfuming the milk as it heats with a fresh bay leaf or other herbs, or by stirring pesto into it, as in the recipe for Nonna's Zucchini and Mushroom Agnolotti with Pesto Béchamel.

Makes about 3 cups/720 ml

  • 3 cups/720 ml whole or 2-percent milk
  • 4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup/30 g unbleached all-purpose/plain flour
  • 1 tsp kosher or fine sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Do not let it boil over. Remove the pan from the heat. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the hot milk in driblets, whisking constantly and taking care to avoid lumps and scorching. When all of the milk has been added, cook the sauce, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, for 10 to 13 minutes, or until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Season with the salt, pepper to taste, and the nutmeg, and remove from the heat.

Simplify: The sauce may be stored in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat it in a saucepan over low heat, adding a splash or two of milk if necessary to loosen it.

Source: The Glorious Pasta of Italy by Domenica Marchetti
Arancini

Arancini, Italian fried rice balls. I have done it again. I stole a recipe. This time my victim was Paula at Bell'alimento.

It's not really my fault. You see I had leftover asparagus risotto from a restaurant in the refrigerator. I had eaten all the asparagus out of it. And while it would have been delicious all on its own, without the asparagus, simply re-heated. I never got around to that. It was getting dangerously close to toss it in the garbage time. As I may have said before, nothing stresses me out more than wasted food.

So here I am at Bell'alimento (I'd encourage you to read her blog but that would be redundant. Of course you already do. Don't you? Of course you do). So where was I? Oh yes, I was stalking Bell'alimento,  she posted about Arancini. Well in case you don't know Arancini are fried rice balls and are utterly addicting. Considered street food in Italy they make a fantastic hand-held appetizer for a casual meal, or to accompany a glass of wine. You can dress them up with a marinara sauce and serve them on a plate as a first course. You can stuff 'em with just about anything.

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