Market Matters- Sunchokes: If You Can Pureé Em... You Can Soufflé Em!

01 Nov 2009
Posted by Greg Henry
sunchokes

There is autumn in the air. I got a whiff of someone's first fire of the season when I awoke this morning. Which put me in the mood for something seasonal from the Hollywood Farmers Market for the week's Market Matters.

I had already decided I was going to make a soufflé today. Because I have been wanting to do a post addressing some of the issues people have with soufflés. I just didn’t know how I was going to incorporate a soufflé into my Market Matters post, especially now that I my taste buds had a need for something autumnal.

But the truth is, choosing an unusual ingredient for my soufflé only reinforces my theme for today– and that theme is quite simply; despite their big, bad reputation, soufflés are a piece of cake! Well, I hope not literally cake, but you know what I mean.

Because soufflés are not difficult. Soufflés are a roux and egg whites barely mixed together and baked until golden. As I am sure you already know a roux is very easy to infuse with just about any flavor. So I decided to infuse mine with the sweet, nutty essence of sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes) and pecans. Doesn’t that sound just like the weather outside?

souffle ingredientsThe thing that gives soufflés the aura of difficulty is the way they rise dramatically over the rim of the dish that they are baked in. I am here to discuss a very simple way you can make this happen, so put those fears aside. You can achieve this rise quite easily with a parchment “collar” rising about 1-inch over the rim and tied around the dish. If you fill the soufflé dish all the way to the top of the collar, and take care not to over mix the egg white and roux combination. I guarantee you can get this effect.

However, this is a Sunday at home. The BF and I do not care one tiny bit how far my soufflé rises over the rim. But we do expect it to be impeccable in the ways that matter the most. Taste and texture. So in that case I am not going to bother with the collar, because I have an even easier solution in achieving a light as air soufflé. Use a larger dish!

souffleMy recipe calls for a smallish 5-cup soufflé dish. But I baked it in a larger 8-cup dish. The uncooked soufflé filled about 2/3 of the dish. After I baked it puffed up about 2 inches. Not enough to rise over the dish– but for this casual lunch for two, I was not interested in putting on a show. I was interested in taste and texture. Though I guarantee you had we had friends in for this little lunch I would have put the extra effort into using the collar and getting that 2-inch rise to come up over the rim. My point is you have a choice. Whichever choice you make is of little importance. What matters is the taste and quality of the final product. So if you understand the basics of a soufflé you can take it in almost any direction.

Every soufflé is made from 2 basic components: A roux-like “base” mixed with well-beaten egg whites.

The base provides the flavor and the egg whites provide the "lift". When it comes out of the oven, a soufflé should be puffed up and fluffy, and it will generally fall after 5 or 10 minutes. This is expected, so do not consider a fallen soufflé a disaster. We don't eat a soufflé until after it has fallen anyway. The dramatic rise is easy to achieve with the collar I mentioned because it helps direct this lift upward, but is not mandatory. So save your energy for the things that are mandatory in a good soufflé.

Soufflés should not be overcooked. They should not be dense, or heavy. But they should have a certain heft on the palate that comes from well-paired ingredients.

Soufflés get their structure from eggs, but they should not be eggy. All the best recipes I have seen achieve this balance with a 4-egg yolk to 5-egg whites ratio. Don’t try and economize and throw that extra yolk in the mix, or skip one of the eggs whites. The soufflé will become a bit cake-like and dense. Certainly you can think of another use for that extra egg yolk…

A soufflé’s structure may come from eggs, but its flavor is carried into this structure by a simple and classic roux, which is nothing more than butter and flour.

But the beauty of a roux is its ability to carry other flavors along with it. You can make a soufflé any flavor you like just by adding the flavor components to the roux. Common additions include, cheese, jam, banana, lemon, and chocolate. But there are no rules. If you can pureé em... you can soufflé em! I think I just made that up...

So here is my pairing of flavors.

Sunchoke Soufflé with Toasted Pecans serves 4 CLICK here for printable recipe

 

  • 4 T unsalted butter
  • 1⁄3 c pecans, toasted and finely chopped
  • 1⁄4 c plus 3 t grated parmesan cheese
  • 1 lb sunchokes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 1⁄4 c flour
  • 4 egg yolks
  • kosher salt
  • 1 t rosemary leaves, minced
  • 1 t thyme leaves, minced
  • 1⁄2 t sage leaves, minced
  • 5 egg whites

prepping a souffle dishPre-heat oven to 400 degrees F. Cut a length of parchment paper big enough to wrap around a 5-cup soufflé dish, then fold it in half and tie it in place using twine. You want this collar to stick up about 1-inch above the rim. Alternatively you may use a larger soufflé dish and skip the collar though you will not get a dramatic rise over the rim. Whichever you choose, melt 1 tablespoon of butter and brush the bottom and sides of the souffle dish and collar with it. Add 2 T of pecans and 2 T of Parmesan cheese; rotate the dish to thoroughly coat the sides and bottom. Set aside.

Combine the milk and sunchokes in a medium-sized saucepan, and bring the mixture to a boil. Immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered about 30minutes. The sunchokes will have become quite tender.

When fully cooked reserve 1 1/4 cups of the hot milk and strain the rest off the sunchokes. Let them cool slightly before proceeding.

Using a food processor puree the cooled sunchokes until very smooth. Pass the puree through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl. Use the back of a spoon to push as much of the puree through as possible. Discard the solids.

Melt the remaining 4 T butter in a medium-sized sauce pan set over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook whisking the whole time for 2 minutes. Slowly add the 1 1/4 cups reserved warm milk a little at a time as you whisk. The mixture should be smooth and free of lumps. Then add the sunchoke puree, Whisk to incorporate and remove the pan from the heat.

sunchoke souffleWhisk in the egg yolks one at a time until smooth. Whisk in salt, herbs and remaining pecans and Parmesan.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat egg whites into stiff peaks. Then gently fold the sunchoke mixture into the egg whites taking care not to defalted the egg whites. You need not thoroughly mix them together. A folding motion is better. Spoon the mixture into the prepared dish. It should come almost to the top of the collar if using to get a good rise above the rim. But it will still rise and be delicious if your dish is a bit bigger and the mixture does not fill the dish all the way to the top.

Bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes. Serve immediately.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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sun chokes

I call them Jerusalem Artichokes and I love them.
What a unique idea for using them. I made a scalloped vegetable dish with Brie and carrots and mushrooms and smoked salt. Will be posting that soon.
love the blog,

Posted by Pat Crocker (not verified) | Nov 12th, 2009 at 9:44 am | Reply

oh man!

That souffle looks to die for delicious. I have been so busy cooking, everything has been on hold. I only get home to crawl into bed, but have been itching to get back into cooking, and this looks like a good way to break the cooking fast.

Posted by OysterCulture (not verified) | Nov 7th, 2009 at 7:42 pm | Reply

Sunchoke Soufflé

Ahha! So those are sunchokes! I see them at the market here in Nantes all the time and had no idea what they were (slaps forehead). And I love soufflés and making soufflés (I'm the egg white girl). This is one fabulous recipe. Beautiful soufflé!

Posted by Jamie (not verified) | Nov 5th, 2009 at 6:28 am | Reply

And I thought.....

that a souffle was a move that the "Masked Avenger" used in professional wrasslin'

Looks great, Greg. I haven't been brave enough to try one yet but your step by step guide makes me think I should give it a try.

Posted by Chris (not verified) | Nov 4th, 2009 at 4:46 pm | Reply

What a terrific idea! I've

What a terrific idea! I've roasted sunchokes and fried them but have never thought to make a souffle! It sounds just perfect!

Posted by Natasha - 5 Star Foodie (not verified) | Nov 2nd, 2009 at 6:49 pm | Reply

What a great idea

I just bought some of these at the market today, I have yet to decide what do so with them, but this may be the winner. Either way, if I don't make this now I will definitely be making it some other time.

Posted by Frenchie (not verified) | Nov 2nd, 2009 at 4:36 pm | Reply

I would have never thought to

I would have never thought to put sunchokes in a souffle. I usually use it in a soup or as a puree. Great job, and the souffle looks great.

Posted by Jason Sandeman (not verified) | Nov 2nd, 2009 at 7:09 am | Reply

Gorgeous souffle

What a gorgeous souffle Greg. I don't think I've ever eaten a sunchoke, so I've learned so much here. I totally agree with you about using a folding motion to incorporate the egg whites in the mixture. If only I lived next door and could come over for a little taste....
Sam

Posted by My Carolina Kitchen (not verified) | Nov 2nd, 2009 at 4:19 am | Reply

The souffle looks delicious.

The souffle looks delicious. From the photo the texture looks perfect. I haven't experimented with sunchokes yet, but now I want to!

Posted by sarah (not verified) | Nov 1st, 2009 at 8:59 pm | Reply

How Creative!

I wouldn't think to put sunchokes in a souffle! But somehow that sounds like it could be quite tasty.

My favorite paring with sunchokes is black truffle oil, and I'd imagine that a few drops would add to the flavors in this souffle.

Posted by The Wind Attack (not verified) | Nov 1st, 2009 at 8:43 pm | Reply

oh yes...

I think you are right. A few drops of truffle oil could go all the way! Only a few drops though. That stuff can be so insidious. You know there is nothing natural or even vaguely related to truffles in truffle oil. It is a trick of chemistry mixed with olive oil. No truffles involved (really I promise), but it can add a heady indulgence. GREG

Posted by Greg Henry | Nov 1st, 2009 at 8:49 pm | Reply

Hi, come on over to my blog

Hi, come on over to my blog and see your Over the Top award. While you don't have to feel compelled to give out other Over the Top awards, I just wanted to recognize how much I love your blog.

Posted by Ninette (not verified) | Nov 1st, 2009 at 8:25 pm | Reply

Wow...it looks absolutely

Wow...it looks absolutely gorgeous! I never would have even imagined using Jerusalem Artichokes in a souffle...how unique! You never fail to inspire me :D

Posted by girlichef (not verified) | Nov 1st, 2009 at 7:43 pm | Reply

Oh wow. That souffle looks

Oh wow. That souffle looks great. I definitely one of those that are intimidated in making souffles of any kind. I'm so much better at eating. But I I did make a promise to myself early this year to try out. When that time will be I do not know.

Posted by Jenn (not verified) | Nov 1st, 2009 at 7:08 pm | Reply

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