Meat & Potatoes: Rosemary Had A Little Lamb (Champvallon)

16 Feb 2010
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making d'agneau champvallon

Meat & Potatoes Day 2 goes continental! Lamb Champvallon.

According to the Larousse Gastronomique, this classic French dish dates from the reign of Louis XIV. It was supposedly invented by one of his mistresses. But which one? There are 14 (quatorze) officially recognized mistresses. That's a lot of ladies to give credit for this dish to.

The French seem to have a lot of these stories attached to their most traditional foods. It's hard to say how much truth there is in any one of them.

Take this recipe known to the French as Cotes D'agneau Champvallon. If it was indeed a lamb dish brought to the King's attention by a mistress, it seems to make sense that her name may have been Champvallon. But most mistresses get short shrift in the history books. I can find no references to any of Louis' lovers with that name.

So I decided it was time for me to take hold of this lore and redefine the history behind this dish to suit my own needs and my own cooking style. While I am rewriting history I think I'll do a bit of tweeking to the recipe too. Something more suited to the modern palate.

prepping the gratin dishI have decided however, that the mistress part of this story is true. But she was not named Champvallon. Nope, that's a very tiny village in Bourgogne. High falutin' Parisan mistresses were not typically country girls. So in my tall tale she has the oh so sophisticated name of Rose Marie.

Because I felt it was time she come out of hiding and took credit for this centuries old recipe. So it lands on me to give the ole girl her due. Afterall, Loius XIV could not have been easy to live with. So my first change is in the herb. I changed it from the traditional thyme to one more suited to our heroine. I chose to flavor my dish with her namesake rosemary; and not just a little either. No this girl's been waiting a long time for recognition and I went big with the herb. It works well with the lamb and the potatoes in my opinion. Besides it's just the kind of thing a girl like Rose Marie would do.

gratin of potatoesSpeaking of lamb. It would have historically been a bone-in chop, most likely a shoulder chop. Most recipes stay true to this idea. Including my inspirational recipe from Daniel Boulud.  But this tough cut of meat would have required hours of cooking time. While I am sure this would be delicious, hours of cooking time does not always fit nicely into my hectic schedule. So I modernized the recipe further by choosing boneless chunks of lamb.

But I didn't stop there with the changes. Afterall, I believe Rose Marie deserves to see her recipe go mainstream. So I also moved some of the cooking to the stovetop. That way I have a little more control over the final flavors. Plus I raised the oven temperature and decided to cook it uncovered, because I like my potatoes to get crisp around the edges. I bet Rose Marie did too.

 

Lamb Champvallon serves 2 with leftovers CLICK Here for a printable recipe

  • 1 lb large onion, thinly sliced
  • 3 clv garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 lb boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 2 1/2 c chicken stock
  • 2 T rosemary leaves, minced. plus more for topping
  • 2 T unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 2 medium idaho or russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch rounds
  • 1/2 c dry white wine
  • 4 T olive oil, divided, plus more as needed

lamb champvallonHeat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring often until fragrant, softened and just beginning to color. Remove the onions and garlic from the pan and set aside.

Add an additional 2 tablespoons oil to the pan. Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. Cook the lamb in as close to a single layer as possible, until well-brown. About 5 minutes per side. If there is too much meat to fit comfortably in the pot, work in batches, adding more oil as needed. Transfer the meat to a bowl as it cooks in that case. When all the meat is cooked return it to the pot and deglaze the pan with the white wine, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom. Then add 2-cups of the stock, the onion mixture and 2 tablesppons minced rosemary. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and cover; stirring occasionally. Simmer until meat is tender and the liquid has reduced and thickened. About 1 hour.

Coat a 12-inch oval baking dish with some of the butter. Set the rest aside. Cover bottom of the baking dish dish with about half the potato slices. Start along the outside edge and work inwards, overlapping each potato slice as you work. Sprinkle the potatoes with a generous amount of salt and pepper.

Pour the lamb and all of its liquid over the potatoes. If necessary add the remaining 1/2 cup of stock to be assured that the liquid come up about 3/4 of the way over the lamb chunks. Top the lamb with more potato slices in a similar fashion as the bottom being sure they overlap. The goal is to seal the meat inside somewhat. Sprinkle with additional rosemary, salt and pepper and a few dollops of butter here and there.

Bake in a preheated 400 degree F oven until top is nicely browned and the edges of the potato are crisp, about 1 hour. Remove the dish from the oven and let it cool somewhat to set up before serving.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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My Favorite Things...rustic..

Rustic, elegant, delicious, one dish.You could serve this to folks who don't eat lamb and change their minds.

Anglela@spinachtiger (not verified) | Feb 23rd, 2010 at 7:40 am | Reply

Top 9 YAY!

Hi Greg - congrats on Top 9! The dish sounds awesome!
LL

Lori Lynn (not verified) | Feb 20th, 2010 at 9:16 am | Reply

Henry VIII was a lightweight!

6 wives? Wimp, I had 14 mistresses! And we didn't even have that little blue pill back then.

:) :) :)

Great post Greg. The potatoes turned out so gorgeous at the end that they look like piped mashed potatoes at a glance. Your talents amaze me.

Louis XIV (not verified) | Feb 18th, 2010 at 8:29 pm | Reply

I loved your story, and that

I loved your story, and that you tried to get to the bottom of the name... could have been a pet name for... who knows who??? Your food instinct is laser perfect thought.. great recipe and perfect photos... love it all!!!

deana@lostpastremembered (not verified) | Feb 18th, 2010 at 4:37 pm | Reply

Loving this meatfest!!!!!!!

Loving this meatfest!!!!!!! And the photos are awesome....

Kitchen Butterfly (not verified) | Feb 18th, 2010 at 12:07 pm | Reply

Historical facts are so dry

Historical facts are so dry and stuffy, it much better to invent your own as this recipe show. It looks absolutely amazing! Thanks for sharing, and I cannot wait to try, its been too long since I made lamb.

OysterCulture (not verified) | Feb 17th, 2010 at 8:08 pm | Reply

One more thing...

The bacon so delicately trying to escape, slipping out of your mise en place grasp! Love it! What great staging you do!

Chef E (not verified) | Feb 17th, 2010 at 2:56 pm | Reply

You elegantly so handle

Your mistress with such a delish twist and care...
My your dish so love you back my dear!

Oh, kind of a poetic compliment...

Love it, and wish I could taste all your dishes :)

Chef E (not verified) | Feb 17th, 2010 at 2:53 pm | Reply

If anyone can change history and recipe . . .

. . . it is you! Poor courtesans - just goes to show that sleeping with a famous guy doesn't necessarily get you any fame (until his wife smashes up his Escalade on Thanksgiving night).

I absolutely love this dish and so will the husband when I make it for him!

Tangled Noodle (not verified) | Feb 17th, 2010 at 7:31 am | Reply

mhmmm....

This just looks utterly delicous. I mean, rosemary and lamb is always a great idea.

Benjamin Emmanuel / Let's Start Simple! (not verified) | Feb 17th, 2010 at 3:10 am | Reply

Love the stories behind food!

Love the stories behind food! This looks so tasty.

Hannah (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:18 pm | Reply

Dang, Greg! I just perused

Dang, Greg! I just perused you last four blog entries. Your pics are mind-blowing. And of course, I love your writing. And sure, I'll come over to eat! Thanks for inviting me. ;)

Ninette (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 5:24 pm | Reply

Looks awesome... and so

Looks awesome... and so comforting for a cold winters night - great job.

Natalie (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 3:06 pm | Reply

Wow, you seduced me into

Wow, you seduced me into wanting lamb all of the sudden. That doesn't happen to often either.

Jenn (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 12:41 pm | Reply

Looks amazing. My real

Looks amazing. My real question is though... where can I find that cool cast iron baking dish?!

You should add that to your open sky store if it isn't already there!

Cheers,
Nick

Nick @ Macheesmo (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:53 am | Reply

Open Sky

You can get the pan in my Open Sky Shop! GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:58 am | Reply

A LoveAffair with Lamb and History

I love history and the romance of thinking about how people lived and ate! Thank you for this post. It made me smile! (oh, and I'll be adding the recipe to my husband's "to cook" pile!)
~kristin

LoveFeast Table (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:08 am | Reply

high fa-lootin

Thats a high fa-lootin' name for shepards pie which in iself is a fancier name for pot pie - looks incredibly good to me - I like the entry in the larousse where they teach the cortesans how to serve properly and the recipe for hippo is not to be missed (I have a very old copy and a new copy they are not the same)

doggybloggy (not verified) | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:06 am | Reply

Hmmm...

Rose Marie may have done some 'herding' but she was no shepherd! GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 16th, 2010 at 8:46 am | Reply

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