Market Matters- Red is the New Greens

28 Feb 2010
Printer Friendly Printer Friendly
red spinach

Winter is the height of the season in Southern California for many of the greens we all love.

Kale, Spinach, Rapini, Chard, Mustard, Pea Tendrils. You see them this time of year at the market. They are so beautiful, like masterful Baroque still-life paintings of the Dutch Golden Age.  The intensity of detail of these greens can almost be off putting. Intricate shapes, complex gradations of color; thick, lush and vibrant. Cooking with them just makes you feel like an artist.

But if you are able to look past all the variations of green greens, you might notice another type of green entirely. And that green is RED!

You may be familiar with Red Leaf Lettuce. It’s a pretty alternative to the Green Leaf Lettuce you find in your local supermarket. Aside from its striking red blush, it tastes fairly similar to its more common green brother. Though, I swear it gets all black and slimy much quicker than the green guy.

red spinachBut unlike green/red leaf lettuce, there are greens at the Farmers Market now that not only differ in their stunning red chromatics…but you will find they have a whole other flavor palate to boot. Perhaps it’s the coloration. I have researched this and cannot find a definitive answer. But, especially among the so-called bitter greens, the red varieties are often milder; sometimes noticeably sweeter. And I mean sweet like honey.

Some say that the autumn leaves that turn red (as opposed to yellow or orange) have a higher sugar content.  I have noticed that deep red beets have a very high sugar content too (sweeter than yellow or orange). Red Life-Savers are sweeter than the green or yellow ones too – I am sure of that. Do you think it's the same for m&m's?

For this week’s Market Matters  from the Hollywood Farmers Market. I have decided to pick up my favorite of these red beauties and prepare a nice brunch to enjoy on the terrace this sunny Sunday in February.

Green Spinach I know you know. But its red veined cousin is an entirely different creature. It is sweet. Almost dessert sweet. It has a honey taste with nutty spinach undertones. It’s quite remarkable.

I’m not going to sit here and try and explain its flavor. It’s too hard for me. Honey and Nuts-- those are my best descriptors. Besides tasting should be a personal experience all your own. I encourage you to have that experience.

I am a big fan of red spinach. You may have never knowingly tried Red Spinach, but now that you have read this I hope you keep your eyes peeled for it. I have noticed it is used frequently in Indian Foods, so you may have had some as an ingredient in a curry or something. Or you may know it by it’s other common names: Malabar Spinach, Ceylon Spinach, Indian Spinach, Vine Spinach, and Malabar Nightshade.

soft boiled eggs with red spinach on toastI am using it this week in a recipe I am calling Soft Boiled Eggs with Red Spinach on Toast. It was inspired by Chef John Ash, who does a much more complex version with fennel bulb, watercress and hazelnuts. I am sure his is crazy delicious. But I like to think that the red spinach has more than enough great taste to justify the simplicity I brought to my version. You can have this one the table in 15 minutes!

In case you haven't figured it out this is another great Eggs Benedict stand-in. It's a much lighter version of that classic too. You can't have too many of these recipes in my opinion. We are replacing the fatty ham with the luscious full-mouth taste of walnut oil. I promise you won't miss the meat.

As I said earlier, I used red spinach, which can be hard to find. But it's so much sweeter and nuttier it really defines this dish, so I hope you can get your hands on some. Though regular spinach would be fine. As would most any tender young flavorful green.

Soft Boiled Eggs with Red Spinach on Toast serves 4 CLICK here for a printable recipe

  • 4 large eggs
  • 4 T walnut oil
  • salt & pepper, to taste
  • 1 bn fresh, young red spinach
  • 2 T lemon juice
  • 4 thick slices rustic bread, toasted
  • 1⁄4 c parmesan cheese, grated
  • lemon wedges for garnish

Place the eggs in a small sauce pan and fill it with enough cool water to cover about 1/2-inch. Bring the pan to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 1 1/2 minutes exactly. This will produce an egg with its white set and its yolk, quite runny. The yolk and squeezed lemon is the sauce in this dish, so do not over cook the eggs. Gently peel them trying to keep the egg in tact. I like them warm for this dish, but you may store them in the refrigerator, covered up to one day.

Add the walnut oil and a big pinch of salt and pepper to a large bowl. Clean and dry the spinach then remove all the thick stems and tear the leaves into big chunks. Add the spinach to the bowl and toss to get it well coated in the oil.

Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat and saute the spinach until it begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Toss in the lemon juice and adjust seasoning. Remove from the heat and cover the pan a few minutes while you begin to plate the dish.

Place a toast on each of 4 plates. Top each one with 1/4 of the wilted spinach and o peeled, whole soft-boiled egg. Sprinkle each plate with some parmesan and additional salt and pepper. Place a few lemon wedges along side for spritzing. Serve warm.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

Comments

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

I need to know this

After all I'm spinach tiger, but I've never had red and red is a favorite color. Now this soft boiled egg breakfast is right for my taste, I mean lemon and runny yolk is gold to me. I like that egg picture so much, I'm surprised you didn't lead with it.

Anglela@spinachtiger (not verified) | Mar 3rd, 2010 at 9:26 pm | Reply

on Market Matters...

...I always lead with a pic of the raw ingredient. GREG

jgreghenry | Mar 3rd, 2010 at 9:29 pm | Reply

The money shot of food p*rn

An amazing recipe, even if I've just learned to get my regular egg's benedict just right. Now you change the rules on me? (haha)

Chris (not verified) | Mar 2nd, 2010 at 7:37 pm | Reply

Red is the color of my true love's....

Red salad is indeed our favorite. Your red-veined spinach is so beautiful! I think part of the different flavor we taste comes from the visuals and what we expect, don't you? And I do think red m & m's have a peppier flavor than, say, the yellow ones.

This egg and spinach dish is beautiful and would make a great Sunday lunch or a weeknight dinner. Delicious! And perfect egg!

Jamie (not verified) | Mar 2nd, 2010 at 5:41 am | Reply

Leave it to you to make me feel guilty!

I need to hit the market tomorrow, I picked up collards, but we desperately need some of these in our house, or just more greens period! I found it last year, so lets go see if the health food market has a replay of one of my favs as well. Yay for red spinach, and your dish!

Chef E (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 11:14 pm | Reply

Red with envy

What a lovely brunch! I've never used red spinach before but it looks like it's time I did. And how interesting with the walnut oil instead of the meat. I'm intrigued! I really do have to try this now.

Cynthia (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 9:35 pm | Reply

Tired of winter greens

Greg,
I am still knee deep in WalMart pre-packaged lettuce! Spring is on its way however. I can feel it in the air. I can't wait for some freshly grown greens. Your soft boiled egg is great, how did you DO that?

Joie de vivre (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 3:19 pm | Reply

which came first the photo or the egg?

Did you mean how did I cook the egg? 1 1/2 minutes exactly... or did you mean how did I take the photo? In which case I gotta say just lucky the yolk drizzled just right! GREG

jgreghenry | Mar 1st, 2010 at 3:40 pm | Reply

Wow!

that looks fantastic! Love the shot of the egg yolk oozing down into the spinach. I've starred this in my google reader and will make and effort to cook this up soon!

The Wind Attack (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 2:37 pm | Reply

We have an heirloom greens

We have an heirloom greens specialist at my FM and I am OBSESSED with his red lettuces. My favorite are the baby Merlot heads. Deep purple red, so good.

Laura (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 2:36 pm | Reply

Red is the New Green

Great piece! I love the info here, I never really took the time to learn about greens and haven't been aware of their seasons. Great food for thought as well as a delicious recipe!

The Cookbook Apprentice (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 1:01 pm | Reply

You are a wealth of fabulous

You are a wealth of fabulous information today. I can't say that I've ever tried red lettuce or red spinach, at least to my knowledge...but after reading this I hope I do! This looks delicious.

Joanne (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 11:19 am | Reply

Oh yeah, Malabar Nightshade

Enlightening as usual, Greg! Eggs and wilted spinach make such a wonderful combo. I love this dish for its meatlessness and how classy it looks compared to an omelet with the same ingredients. I'll look for red varieties and some walnut oil.

Kristen (not verified) | Mar 1st, 2010 at 10:39 am | Reply

Mmmm

Looks delicious! You are so talented with your wonderful food photography!

Martha (not verified) | Feb 28th, 2010 at 7:37 pm | Reply

You are right,

It's good! GREG

jgreghenry | Feb 28th, 2010 at 7:21 pm | Reply

I love the poached egg and

I love the poached egg and greens combo in general, so this looks really really good!

arugulove (not verified) | Feb 28th, 2010 at 7:13 pm | Reply

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Allowed HTML tags: <a><p><em> <strong><ul> <ol> <li><br />
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.

More information about formatting options

By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.