Market Matters- Fava Beans & Morel Mushrooms 'Cuz I Couldn't Decide

05 May 2010
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favas and morelsThis was supposed to be Sunday's post! But the cruel madness of a low-life hacker upended all of that. So in the immortal words of Carlotta here's to you, ya bum! "Good times and bum times, I've seen 'em all and, my dear, I'm still here. Flush velvet sometimes, sometimes just pretzels and beer. But I'm here. I've run the gamut from A to Z. Three cheers and dammit, c'est la vie. I got through all of last year and I'm here! Look who's here! I'm still here!" GREG

It's spring at the Hollywood Farmers Market. The choices are mind-boggling.

The array of beautiful bounty would indeed amaze you. I couldn't decide. In the end I made two choices. After all, I am only human. The choices I made are two of my favorites. In fact both have shown their glowing faces at Sippity Sup already this spring!

But they called to me. I swear. I actualy heard them call to me.  When I answered back the farmer who ran the stand winked at me, and threw in an extra handful of morels! Sweet soul that he is.

I imagine these beauties call to him night and day. So I guess he knew what I was going through.

With such beautiful ingredients I decided to go with simplicity. I decided to make pasta. I decided to make a fresh linguine. I know I have always said I prefer dried pasta with "hard" durum wheat. And generally I do. But it's spring. I just felt that the soft supple textures of fresh pasta suited my mood and my ingredients.  So there... you never know where my mind will wander (and my shopping list will follow).

onion confitFor this pasta I am going to do little else than sauté these beautiful vegetables in a bit of butter, then deglaze the pan with some dry vermouth. I am using the Paula Wolfert method to barely cook the fava beans. It's the best solution for this delicate green goddess.

But to add a bit of complex sweetness I am turning to another genius. Because I decided these flavors need a base, something to tie them to the fresh soft pasta. I am using Thomas Keller's onion confit recipe from Bouchon as the base for the pasta sauce. Sure it takes 3 hours and lunch will be horribly delayed. But it's springtime. A late lunch (early supper?) maybe just the thing the season calls for.

Sautéed Favas and Morels with Onion Confit and Fresh Linguine serves 4 CLICK here for a printable recipe

 

  • 2 1⁄2 lb spanish or yellow onions
  • 8 T unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • 2 t kosher salt
  • 6 lb unshelled fava beans
  • 1 lb fresh morel mushrooms
  • 3 T unsalted butter
  • salt and pepper to tatse
  • 1⁄2 c dry vermouth
  • 1 lb fresh linguine
  • 3 T fresh italian parsley, chopped
  • parmesan cheese to taste

Onion Confit:
Cut off the tops and bottoms of the onions and cut the onions lengthwise in half. Remove the peel and outer layers. Cut a V wedge in the bottom of each half to remove the core and pull out any solid flat pieces from the center. Lay an onion half, cut side down, on a cutting board with the root end toward you. There are lines on the outside of the onion; cut along these lines (the grain) rather than against them to help the onions soften more quickly. Holding the knife almost parallel to the board, slice the onion lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, following the lines of the onion. Once you cut past the center of the onion, the knife angle will become awkward: Flip the onion onto its side (toward the knife), return the knife to the original position, and finish cutting the onion. Separate the slices of onion, trimming away any root sections that are still attached. Repeat with the remaining onions. (You should have about 8 cups of onions.)

Warm 1/4 cup of water in a large pot over low heat. Add the butter and whisk gently to melt it. Add the onions, salt, and bouquet garni, stir to combine, and place a parchment “lid” (a piece of parchment, cut to fit) on top, pressing it against the onions.

Cook very slowly, stirring the onions every 20 to 30 minutes at first, more often toward the end of cooking, for about 2 hours. The onions will wilt and steam will rise, but they should not brown. Check the onions after about 30 minutes: If they seem lost in the pot, transfer to a smaller pot and cut down the parchment lid to fit. If there is a lot of liquid remaining at this point, you can turn up the heat slightly to cook a bit more rapidly. After about 2 hours, the onions will have softened but should not be falling apart; there still may be liquid left in the pot. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Allow the onions to cool in their liquid. Transfer the onions, with their liquid, to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to a week. Drain the confit before using.

fava and morel linguineFavas and Morels:
Remove all the fava beans from their pods. Place the fava beans in a heat proof bowl. Pour enough boiling water over the beans to cover by about 1-inch. Let the beans sit undisturbed until the water has cooled enough so as to handle the beans.

Start peeling the beans by using your thumbnail to nick a slit in the skin. Squeeze slightly, and the inner bean will pop right out. If possible start with the smaller beans working to the largest beans. Place the peeled favas in a bowl and set aside.

Cut the morels in half lengthwise and set aside. In a large saute pan melt 3 tablespoons of butter. When the butter melts and begins to get foamy add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often about 5 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and some pepper. Cook an additional minute or two more until the pan nearly dry. Add the vermouth, deglazing the pan. Cook about 2 minutes then add the favas, stirring to combine. Turn off the heat, until ready to serve.

Bring about 3 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add a good heaping of salt and add the fresh pasta. Stir gently to keep it from sticking. Since it's fresh, it will cook in 3 or 4 minutes. Do not let it overcook! Fresh pastas with egg are often made with "soft" flour with less gluten than the "hard" durum wheat flour used in the best dried pasta.

While the pasta cooks add about 2 cups of the onion confit to the fava and morel mixture. Reheat them together gently.

Once the pasta is cooked use tongs to move it from the water to the fava, morel and onion pan. It's good to being a bit of the water along. In fact you may even need to add a bit more of the pasta water to achieve a good consistency of sauce. Pour the contents of the pasta pan onto a serving platter and garnish with parsley and Parmesan. Serve hot.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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MORELS!!!

Oh how I love these little guys! Paired with the fava beans... it sounds delightful.

Also, the inclusion of the vermouth is brilliant. I need to start cooking with it more (instead of drinking it all the time). :-)

A Thought For Food (not verified) | May 27th, 2010 at 8:52 am | Reply

Fava rite time of year

I saw your fava post (and I couldn't comment for some reason) and I changed to your method of cooking the fava beans second time I made the dish.

I agree about fresh pasta, but this local pasta company is the exception. They sell the pasta frozen and it's the best I've had so far. I don't know what their secret is, but they manage to make a fresh pasta that still has a bite to it and perfect texture.

You have, of course, added much sophistication to springtime farmer fare, as always.

Anglela@spinachtiger (not verified) | May 10th, 2010 at 8:10 pm | Reply

I'm at a loss for words right now

That sounds so good. Talk about umami, damn, I want a bowl right now. Too bad we're making sandwiches from Mother's Day's leftover ham. A boy can dream. Thanks. Thanks for spoiling dinner.

papawow (not verified) | May 10th, 2010 at 8:09 pm | Reply

I have been happily binging

I have been happily binging on favas since the season started: antipasti, salads, pastas. All delicious. But I haven't had a single morel this year. Once again, you've reminded me of what I need to be picking up at the farmer's market.Your pasta looks delicious.
Thanks!
-E

Erin (not verified) | May 10th, 2010 at 8:21 am | Reply

OMG - 2 of my favorite

OMG - 2 of my favorite farmer's market treats in one post. I've struck it big time, and I am off for my first experience at the Alhemeny Farmer's market in a few minutes - you have me inspired! You're recipe sounds amazing and now I've already got a good list started for produce - Thank You.

OysterCulture (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 6:25 am | Reply

So what you're telling me is.

So what you're telling me is. That if I convince the dudes at the farmer's market that I'm crazy, I'll get free stuff. Hmmm. I like your tactics.

And, of course, this recipe! What a great way to use favas and morels. Good stuff.

Joanne (not verified) | May 8th, 2010 at 4:18 am | Reply

BTW...I loved your opening...forgot to mention earlier!

In fact I loved your opening so much I just read to Mr. Hubby & my 8 year old.....the reading was followed by heavy applause! Thought you'd like to know!

Ciao again, Devaki

Devaki (not verified) | May 7th, 2010 at 7:58 pm | Reply

I learned so much....

Dear Greg - I just have to tell you - I learned so much from this post. For one thanks to you I know know the direction to head when I am looking to fix onion confit :) Also morels and fava beans...WOW!

What flavors! You never cease to amaze, my friend :) I am just reaching over with my fork right now....

Ciao, Devaki @ weavethousandflavors

Devaki (not verified) | May 7th, 2010 at 7:55 pm | Reply

Morel!

Good lord those morels are gorgeous, they brought tears to my eyes. When I lived in Pittsburgh I had them growing in my back yard. Great post! BTW the confit works as well or better with shallots or even garlic (don't consume too much of the garlic or you will suffer later) ;-)

Jeff (not verified) | May 5th, 2010 at 5:54 pm | Reply

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