swiss chard

Uova da Raviolo from Sippity Sup

The word ravioli is an Italian word for a type of pasta. I know you know what ravioli is. Even Chef Boyardee knows ravioli!

But what about raviolo, what do you think that means?

Well at its most technical raviolo is merely the singular of ravioli. Which seems a bit silly to me because who would ever eat just one. A big plate of ravioli is one of life’s great pleasures. I can’t imagine having that steaming plate in front of me and just eating a single raviolo off the plate. Could I? Would I? Should I??

Well maybe I would if that raviolo were as big as the plate, scented with truffle oil and stuffed full of Swiss chard, ricotta cheese and just dripping with the rich intensity of a barely cooked egg yolk.

Uovo da raviolo! That’s Italian for a single fist-sized pillow of fresh pasta. Each enormous raviolo is enough for one person and makes an amazing first course. It’s such a simple idea, but it makes a huge impact at the table. Because each raviolo shrouds a whole, soft-boiled egg yolk along with a ricotta-chard filling. When you slide your fork into it; just like a perfectly poached egg, the yolk oozes out– joining the pool of browned truffle butter, with sage and slivers of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Mario Batali first introduced me to the concept here in Los Angeles at Osteria Mozza. But my recipe is much more of an amalgamation. I shamelessly stole parts of this recipe from three great chefs. The afore mentioned Mr. Batali, Lidia Bastianich, and Michael Chiarello. The result is an impressive first course not nearly as difficult to make as you might think.

Sippity Sup Continues »

Raviolo with Egg Yolk in Truffle Scented Sage Brown Butter Sauce

Raviolo with Egg Yolk in Sage Brown Butter Sauce
Prep time: 60
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 3.5 c flour, plus more as needed
  • 4 large eggs
  • 0.5 t extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 lb swiss chard, stemed and roughly chopped
  • 1 lb whole milk ricotta cheese, strained of excess moisture
  • 0.25 t freshly ground nutmeg
  • 8 large egg yolks
  • 0.5 t sea salt, plus more as needed
  • 0.25 t fresh ground black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 1 large egg beaten with 2 tablespoons water
  • 4 T unsalted butter, cut into chunks
  • 4 T sage leaves, thinly sliced crosswise
  • 0 parmigiano-reggiano cheese, to taste
  • 0 white truffle oil, to taste (optional)

Directions

To make the pasta: Mound 3 1/2 cups of the flour in the center of a large wooden cutting board. Make a well in the middle of the flour and add the eggs and the olive oil. Using a fork, beat together the eggs and oil and begin to incorporate the flour, starting with the inner rim of the well. As you expand the well, keep pushing the flour up from the base of the mound to retain the well shape. The dough will come together when half of the flour is incorporated. Start kneading the dough with both hands, using the palms of your hands. Once you have a cohesive mass, remove the dough from the board and scrape up and discard any leftover bits. Lightly re-flour the board and continue kneading for 5 or 6 more minutes. The dough should be elastic and a little sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature. Roll out the pasta dough to the thinnest setting on a pasta rolling machine. From the thin pasta sheet, cut 12 circles with a 6-inch diameter. Set 6 of the circles on a sheet tray dusted with flour, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. To make the filling: Prepare an ice bath. In a large pot of salted boiling water, blanch the chard for about 3 minutes. Drain, then quickly plunge it into the ice bath to stop cooking. Drain again, then squeeze it in you fists to remove as much moisture as possible. Transfer it to a food processor. Add the drained ricotta to the food processor, pulse to combine. Add the nutmeg, sea salt, pepper and 2 egg yolks. Run the machine until the mixture is well combines. You may need to scrape the sides of the bowl once to assure it is evenly incorporated. Spoon the blended mixture into a pastry bag fitted with 1 1/2-inch round tip. Pipe a ring of the ricotta mixture about 1/2-inch from the edges of each of the 6 dough rounds that were set aside on the tray. The goal is to create a well to hold one of the 6 remaining egg yolks on each of the dough rounds.Brush the egg water mixture around each of the 6 dough rounds. Top them with the remaining 6 dough rounds and carefully seal the edges, taking care not to break the egg yolks inside. Move the tray to the refrigerator while you prepare the sauce. To prepare the sauce: Heat a heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the butterchunks and the sliced sage, whisking frequently and watching carefully. You will notice the butter will get foamy, and then the milk solids will begin to brown. Once that starts, remove skillet from the heat. The butter will go from brown to black quickly, so set the skillet on a cool, heat proof surface to slow cooking before the butter turns black. Smell the butter; it should have a nutty aroma, and be caramel in color. To finish the dish: Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large stock pot and add 2 tablespoons salt. Lower the heat to a simmer and let the bubbles subside. Gently, using a wide flat spatula, lower each raviolo into the water. Cook them for about 2 minutes. Remove the, gently from the water and place them one at a time into the skillet with the brown butter sage sauce, use a spoon to coat each one well with the sauce. Repeat with remaining raviolos. Placing each one them carefully onto each of 6 serving plates. Drizzle remaining sauce evenly on each plate, making sure to include some of the fried sage as well. Garnish generously with a grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and an optional drizzle of truffle oil. Just a whiff of oil is all that's needed. Truffle oil can be quite insidious when used with a heavy hand.

Notes:

serves 6
ingredients for pork loin stuffing

I finally did it. I broke the spell and actually cooked. I don't mean reheated, or cold poached or relied on default memories of pastas long loved. I mean sat down, thought it out and created a completely original recipe using all of my faculties.

I had my synapses working in both directions. And we all know that synapses are essential to neuronal function, and without neuronal function there would be no such thing as really good cooking. Because neurons are specialized cells that pass signals to individual target cells. And neurons use synapses as the means by which they pass along pertinent information.

Information such as: "Gosh these pork loin chops look fabulous". And because the neurons I was using to view those loin chops at the meat counter this morning were able to share that information with other neurons in my brain the inkling of a recipe was born.

And I want you to know that without synapses the information I gleened by staring at those beautifull loin chops would have just sat in the receiving neuron never actually meeting its destiny. And in this case the destiny of that information may have started with a mere visual cue, but that cue was able to travel back and forth between neurons, telling my body what actions to take to transform those fabulous pork loins into the luscious, delicious, (if I say so myself) recipe that required all my cognitive skills to bring to you today! I think I even spelled it all correctly...

Sippity Sup Continues »

Stuffed Pork Loin Chop with Swiss Chard, Bacon, Sage and Chianti Sauce

stuffed pork loin chops
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 3 T olive oil
  • 3 clv garlic, lightly smashed
  • 2 lb swiss chard, center veins removed
  • 0 salt and pepper to taste
  • 4 sli bacon cut crosswise into 1/2” strips
  • 1 c day old rustic style bread, crust removed and cut into rough pieces varying between 1/4” and 1/2”
  • 3 T pine nuts
  • 8 pieces of oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes cut into 1/4” dice
  • 8 sage leaves, cut crosswise into very thin strips (chiffonade)
  • 1.5 c fruity red wine (such as a chianti)
  • 0 additional sage leaves, left whole
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 2 T italian parsley, chopped
  • 20 small round red potatoes
  • 2 medium shallots, peeled and cut in half
  • 1 sprig
  • 2 boneless pork loin chops, 2 inches thick
  • 4 additional slices bacon (left whole)
  • 1 T vegetable oil
  • 2 more sage leaves, finely chopped as garnish

Directions

The Stuffing Heat the olive oil in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the smashed garlic cloves to the hot oil and swirl them around the pan. After a moment, remove the garlic cloves and discard. Add the Swiss chard, and a little salt and pepper. Cook stirring and tossing continuously until it is barely wilted, about 4 minutes. Put the chard into a colander to drain. When slightly cool use a paper towel to press out as much moisture as possible. Chop the chard and add it to a mixing bowl. Using the same skillet, wipe the bottom and sides with a paper towel and set it over medium heat. Once the pan has reheated Add the cut bacon strips to the pan, stirring occasionally. Once it begins to brown, but is not yet crisp remove it to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Reserving the bacon fat in the skillet still set over medium heat. Add the bread cubes and pine nuts to the skillet and cook giving the pan all of your attention until everything is toasted and golden brown. Then add the bread, pine nuts and cooled, cooked bacon to the same bowl as the Swiss chard. Add the diced sun dried tomatoes, sage chiffonade, and a pinch of pepper (salt is probably not necessary, but check). Set the stuffing aside. Chianti Sauce Add the red wine, one whole sage leaf, one sprig of thyme, and chopped parsley to a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil then lower the heat and cook until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Strain the herbs out and set the sauce aside. Potatoes Put the red potatoes, shallot halves, the remaining sprig of thyme, the sprig of rosemary and a good amount of salt into a large pot. Add enough cool water to cover the ingredients by 2 inches. Bring the pot to a boil and cook about 10 minutes. The potatoes should be cooked through, but still quite firm. Drain the potatoes and then immerse them in cool water. Set aside in the cool water while you prepare the pork. Pork Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Working with one pork chop at a time, lay one on it’s side in front of you and insert the tip of your knife into the center cutting a pocket into the chop. Making sure to leave 3 sides intact. Season the insides with salt and pepper and fill its cavity with about 1/4 of the chard stuffing. Press the meat closed around the mixture, pressing to evenly distribute the stuffing. Lay the chop flat again and top with four or 5 whole sage leaves. Wrap the pork with 2 strips of raw bacon, covering the sage leaves and winding the bacon around the chop slightly overlapping. Make sure you enclose the stuffing completely. Use toothpicks to secure the ends of the bacon slices. Continue until both chops are stuffed and wrapped. Find a pan with shallow sides (such as a cast iron skillet) that is ovenproof and large enough to hold both of the chops and all the potatoes. Use this skillet to warm the vegetable oil on a burner set to medium. Lay the chops in the pan in a single layer; cook 6-8 minutes, turning the as needed to assure even browning of the bacon. Add the potatoes to the pan surrounding the chops. It’s ok if the potatoes cover the chops somewhat. Move the pan to the preheated oven and cook another 5-7 minutes, until the pork has reached an interior temperature of 140 degrees F for medium rare. Move the chops to a cutting board and let them rest about 8 minutes. In the meantime put the potatoes on a warm serving platter. Once the pork has rested, slice each chop on a diagonal, across the grain into 1/2-inch thick slices. Top the potatoes with the sliced pork and drizzle about 1/2 of the Chianti sauce over the chops and toss the chopped sage across the platter. Serve warm with the remaining sauce passed at the table.

Notes:

serves 4