sherry vinegar

Farro & Tomato Salad with Basil & Anchovies

This is the final entry in my week long series of summer salads. It's a Farro & Tomato Salad with Basil & Anchovies and it comes (practically word for word) from Judy Rodgers.

I tend to be a tinkerer when it comes to recipes (if I follow one at all) but there are some cooks whose style and choices just click with me and the way I like to do things. Judy Rodgers is one such cook. She thinks about food and it's preparation. She gets all wonky about technique. So I know that every step and every ingredient really is all it needs to be. No more no less. I can't improve on that kind of methodology, so I don't even try.

Especially when it comes to an ingredient like farro. It's an ancient grain. But it's new to my kitchen. It's been a staple to the masses since Roman times, but suddenly the chic set has embraced it too. I first had it at one of Mario Batali's New York restaurants in the 1990s (in the form of a pan-fried cake) but this is my first attempt at cooking with it at home.

If you are unfamiliar with farro, well it looks a bit like brown rice. But it's a closer cousin to barley. The best version is the whole-grain version, partly due to all those healthful advantages. When you buy farro look for whole-grains that have been partially processed and have the brown outer hull removed. These are called "pearled", "perlato", "semiperlato", or "decorticato".

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Farro & Tomato Salad with Basil & Anchovies

Farro & Tomato Salad with Basil & Anchovies
Prep time: 20
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 c whole-grain farro
  • 3 c water
  • 1 pn salt, plus more as needed
  • 6 T extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 t sherry vinegar
  • 1 pn freshly crackked black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 1 c halved ripe sweet 100 cherry tomatoes (about 24 tomatoes)
  • 4 salt-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed and cut lengthwise into 3 or 4 strips each
  • 1 small cucumber, sliced
  • 1 handful fresh basil leaves

Directions

Combine the farro with the water and salt in a 2-quart saucepan and cook uncovered at a bare simmer until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. You should get about 2 cups. Drain and spread on a sheet pan so it will cool evenly.

Whisk together the oil, vinegar, and salt & pepper to taste. The vinegar flavor should be barely strong enough to detect.

Combine the farro, tomatoes, anchovies and cucumbers,and toss with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Tear The basil leaves, then fold into the farro. Taste again. Serve promptly, while the flavors are bright and clear and before the farro soaks up the vinegar.

Source: Judy Rodgers
quail escabeche

Quail escabeche. Little pickled birds.


Are you still with me? I said weeks ago that a covey of quail was coming.


But you didn't think I would actually do this recipe did you? It's a heck of a recipe though, full of global influences. It's exactly the kind of food I love. But when I said a few weeks ago that I could do quail if I wanted to. You didn't really think I would, now did you?


And you claim to know me. HA! Because I was saving this recipe for when my mood got just sour enough to match the bite in these little pickled birds!


Now I see what's going on in blogland, and sometimes I just have to take a stand for the kind of food I believe in. I know that it's cupcakes and healthy snacks for kids that get all the love juice right now. Those are some lovable topics. But we don't ALL have to post the same recipes... do we?


Still I realize with all the gingerbread surprises out there, you may have very little room left on your virtual plate for little pickled birds. You don't even like me saying it do you? Little pickled birds. That's why I am pretty proud of the few of you who are still reading these words.


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Quail Escabeche

Quail Escabeche
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 4 whole quail
  • 2 T extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 small fennel bulbs (1 lb total) stalks trimmed and bulbs minced
  • 3 medium shallots, minced
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 lwmongrass stalk, 1 or 2 outer layers removed & lower 4 inches minced
  • 0.5 c raisins
  • 1 (2-inch) piece mexican cinnamon stick
  • 1.5 c dry sherry
  • 0.25 c sherry vinegar
  • 1 T flat leafed parsley, minced
  • 0 salt and pepper to taste
  • 0 additional olive oil to taste for drizzling

Directions

Place the rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat to 350 degrees F. Wash and thoroughly dry the quail. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in an ovenproof 12-inch skillet with a lid, until it shimmers. Sear quail on all sides until golden brown, abou 5 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Add fennel, shallots, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper to skillet and saute until fennel is well softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in lemongrass, raisins, cinnamon stick, sherry and sherry vinegar. Bring to a boil, then cover the skillet and move it to the oven to braise the vegetables about 20 minutes. Pull the skillet from the oven, remove the lid and add a bit of water if necessary. Not too much, just enough to keep the vegetables fluid and easy to move around the skillet. Nestle the quail on top. Cover and return to the oven to continue braising another 30 minutes until the thigh pulls easily from the joints. Cool completely, uncovered. Serve at room temperature, drizzled with olive oil.
Source: Adapted from Raquel Carena
raw rib eye steak

I over heard some people talking in a restaurant recently about steak. The point one of the diners was trying to make was that in tough economic times people turn from “better” cuts of meat to the “cheaper” cuts of meat.

His point made sense to me. I suppose people do exactly that.

But then his next statement floored me. He said, “So when I cook a steak at home I force myself to buy something like a flank or skirt steak. But when eating in a nice restaurant I always order the filet, no matter what the price”.

I almost choked on my hanger steak!

I would advise just the opposite. While true that a good filet has a lovely soft tender texture. It cuts like "buttah" and we have been programmed to believe that means it tastes better. However, all filets, good, bad, or indifferent; cooked at home or at a Michelin starred restaurant are relatively flavorless. Why do you think people wrap them in bacon?

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