parmasan cheese

Orecchiette pasta with creamy broccolini

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I very carefully chose orecchiette for this Pasta with Creamy Broccolini & Rapini Sauce. Because pasta is not one size fits all.

One of the most appealing aspects of a big plate of pasta is the pasta itself. We all know that pasta comes in all shapes and sizes. From big fat rings of calamarata (so named for its resemblence to calamari) to the tiny little rice-like grains in orzo.

Orecchiette has an ingenious shape that is formed by pressing your thumb into a marble sized ball of dough. This creates a rough impression of a tiny vessel perfectly suited to capture sauce. Making it an ideal choice for similarly textured chunky sauces or the very uniform textures like this creamy broccolini and rapini sauce.

While there are no hard and fast rules for pairing a pasta shape with a pasta sauce there is a common sense methodology. Starting with don't mix pasta shapes in one pot of water. While it might seems sensible to use up two half boxes of pasta during one meal. I want to encourage you to resist. Now I like using all the food in the house as much as the next cook– and spaghetti and spaghettini may seem like harmless companions. But (Hello!!) they each have different cooking times. See what I mean? Aren't you glad you have me to thank for saving you from a crisis?

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Cannelloni with radicchio and walnuts

What's with the wacky weather? Hot one day, cold the next. I live in Southern California so I have come to expect these crazy fluctuations this time of year, but honestly what is a seasonal cook like me supposed to do?

How about Cannelloni al Radicchio? The perfect dish for 100 degree weather and wild Santa Anna winds right?

You see I've got cannelloni on the brain because it seems like just yesterday that I awoke to a chilly morning leading to a rainy afternoon. So I curled up with a new cookbook. I chose The Glorious Pasta of Italy by Dominica Marchetti to warm my soul that morning. You see it's been sitting on top of my book pile all summer waiting for my attention. Chronicle Books sent it to me so I knew it was bound to be a winner.

Have you ever opened a book to the exact page you wanted (without even knowing what you wanted)? Well that's what happened that cool morning last week. Cannelloni al Radicchio swept me in and would not let me out of its warm embrace. So I went out into the cold, cold rain and picked me up some radicchio. But by the time I got home, this and that and some more of the other thing happened. Meaning, there just wasn't time to make egg pasta, homemade béchamel and all the other lovely ingredients that make this recipe such a seasonal winner.

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Cannelloni al Radicchio

cannelloni with walnuts
Prep time: 120
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 2 T extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 shallots,halved & thinly sliced
  • 2 heads radicchio, quartered through the stem end, cored & finely shredded
  • 1 T kosher saly, plus more as needed
  • 1 pn black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 1.5 c whole cows milk ricotta, drained
  • 8 oz fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into small dice
  • 1 oz batch fresh egg pasta, cut into lasagna noodles
  • 3 c bechamel sauce, slightly heated
  • 1 T unsalted butter
  • 1.5 c parmigiano-reggiano, grated
  • 0.25 c walnuts, coarsely chopped

Directions

Warm the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan placed over medium heat. Add the shallots and stir to coat them with the oil. Sauté, stirring from time to time, for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the shallots are soft and translucent but not browned. Add the radicchio and sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and a generous grind of pepper. Cover the pan, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook the radicchio for about 8 minutes, or until wilted. Uncover the pan and use tongs to toss the radicchio. Cook for another minute or two, or until the radicchio is purple-brown, wilted, and just tender. Remove from the heat and let the radicchio cool to room temperature in the pan. Remove a handful of the radicchio and set it aside to garnish the cannelloni.

In a large bowl, work the ricotta with a fork until it is creamy. Fold in the mozzarella. Add the radicchio in the frying pan to the cheese mixture and fold to distribute evenly.

Spread a clean tablecloth or several clean dish/tea towels on a clean, flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, the béchamel, and the radicchio-cheese filling. Place a large bowl filled with ice water near the stove for briefly immersing the cooked lasagne noodles to remove excess starch.

Heat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5. Lightly coat two 8-by-12-in/20-by-30.5-cm baking dishes with the butter.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Carefully drop in 4 or 5 lasagna noodles, taking care not to crowd the pot. Boil the pasta for about 1 minute; fresh pasta cooks quickly and the lasagna noodles should be slightly underdone. Use a large skimmer to remove the lasagna noodles from the pot and gently immerse them in the bowl of ice water. Use the skimmer to remove the noodles; let them drip and then spread them out on the tablecloth. Continue to cook, cool, and spread out the lasagna noodles until you have cooked and cooled all of them.

Spread a thick layer of béchamel sauce (about 3/4 cup/180 ml per dish) in the bottom of each prepared baking dish.

Place a lasagna rectangle on a clean work surface. Spoon about 2 tbsp of the radicchio-cheese filling onto the center, and spread it out with the back of the spoon, leaving a border all around. Roll up the pasta rectangle, cigar style, and place it, seam-side down, in one of the prepared baking dishes. Continue to fill and roll the cannelloni, arranging 10 cannelloni in each dish.

Divide the remaining béchamel between the 2 baking dishes, spreading it over the filled cannelloni. Strew a little of the reserved radicchio over the top in uneven clumps. Sprinkle the Parmigiano cheese and then the walnuts (if using) over the cannelloni. Cover the dishes with aluminum foil.

Bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for an additional 20 minutes, or until the cheese and béchamel sauce are bubbly and the top is golden brown. Serve the cannelloni piping hot from the oven.

Simplify: The radicchio filling may be made in advance and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Store-bought dried cannelloni or dried lasagna noodles may be substituted for the fresh ones. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cooking.

If you do not want to make homemade pasta dough and stretch it into sheets, you can substitute store-bought fresh egg pasta sheets, available at gourmet food shops, Italian food stores, and well-stocked supermarkets, and cut them into lasagna noodles. 

Notes:

Béchamel Sauce

This is a good all-purpose white sauce. In this book, it is used in several recipes, including Lasagne Verde alla Bolognese and Cannelloni al Radicchio. You can vary it by adding shredded cheese (at which point it becomes a Mornay sauce), by perfuming the milk as it heats with a fresh bay leaf or other herbs, or by stirring pesto into it, as in the recipe for Nonna's Zucchini and Mushroom Agnolotti with Pesto Béchamel.

Makes about 3 cups/720 ml

  • 3 cups/720 ml whole or 2-percent milk
  • 4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup/30 g unbleached all-purpose/plain flour
  • 1 tsp kosher or fine sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Do not let it boil over. Remove the pan from the heat. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the hot milk in driblets, whisking constantly and taking care to avoid lumps and scorching. When all of the milk has been added, cook the sauce, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, for 10 to 13 minutes, or until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Season with the salt, pepper to taste, and the nutmeg, and remove from the heat.

Simplify: The sauce may be stored in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat it in a saucepan over low heat, adding a splash or two of milk if necessary to loosen it.

Source: The Glorious Pasta of Italy by Domenica Marchetti
Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto

I was in a creative mood when I made these Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto. You might even say I was getting a little experimental– as I was trying to recreate a restaurant dish without actually having the recipe.

In the end my recipe has a lot of steps and ingredients, which means it's not for everyone I know. Still, I am not here to apologize for that because this recipe is really just an introduction to what I really want to talk about. Scallops.

Scallops themselves should be simple to make. But they aren't always, are they?

Scallops should be served rare, if you cook them all the way through you are destroying their delicate nature. An overcooked scallop is a rubbery waste of money. But just because I won't submit to an overcooked scallop does not mean I want it improperly cooked either. In fact I like quite a bit of crunchy crusty searing on my scallops.

But how to best achieve this?

Well, choosing good scallops is the first step. Many scallops today are artificially pumped up and waterlogged by a chemical called STP. If possible get scallops without this additive. The proper term for an STP free scallop is "dry". Ask your fish monger if you are unsure. I have a whole post devoted to scallops and STP here.

Sippity Sup Continues »

Seared Scallops with Spicy Blackberry Sauce, Guanciale & Shiitake Risotto

Scallops with mushroom risotto and blackberry sauce
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 0.5 lb fresh blackberries
  • 0.5 c red wine vinegar
  • 0.5 c water
  • 0.5 c brown sugar
  • 0.25 t red pepper flakes
  • 1 pn salt
  • 3 T unsalted butter, divided
  • 0.5 lb guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1-inch by 1/4-inch batons
  • 1 olive oil
  • 2 medium shallots, minced
  • 8 oz shiitake mushroom capps, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 0 salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 c short grain rice
  • 0.25 c dry white wine
  • 4 c vegetable broth, warmed on stove
  • 3 T flat leaf parsley, minced, plus more as garnish, optional
  • 0.5 c parmesan cheese, grated
  • 4 large (dry) sea scallops

Directions

Make the sauce: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat, combine the berries, vinegar, water, brown sugar, red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt. When they begin to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, stirring often to keep the berries from sticking to the bottom and burning; about 30 minutes. The juices will thicken slightly, add 1 tablespoon butter, stirring until incorporated. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool.

Strain pulp through sieve to remove seeds, being sure to rub all the berry pulp you can through the mesh. Discarding solids. Set aside.

Brown the guanciale: Toss the guanciale pieces into a cold cast iron skillet. Turn the heat to medium and cook, undisturbed until the gaunciale browns some. Shake the skillet and continue to cook until the pieces are crispy all over. Use a slotted spoon and transfer the guanciale to a paper towel lined plate. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of the fat. Reserving the skillet for the scallops.

Make the risotto: Place a large saucepan over medium heat, add 1 tablespon olive oil and the shallots. Cook and stirring often until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms release their liquid and are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the rice and stir until the grains are well-coated and opaque, 1 to 2 minutes.. Stir in the wine and cook for 1 minute to evaporate the alcohol. Pour in 1 cup of warm broth. Stir with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed all the liquid, then add another 1 cup. Keep stirring while adding the broth a cup at a time, allowing the rice to mostly absorb the liquid before adding more. You may not need all of the broth. Taste the risotto and adjust seasoning; it should be slightly firm but tender and creamy. Stir in the parsley, butter, and cheese.

Sear the scallops: Season the scallops generously with salt and pepper. Place a the skillet containing the remaining 1 tablespoon guanciale fat over medium heat. When the fat is hot, add the scallops, and sear for 2 minutes, without moving them around. When the bottoms of the scallops look nicely browned, turn them over and sear the other side for 1 minute. Using tongs, carefully transfer the scallops to a platter lined with paper towels to blot some of the oil.

To serve: Mound the risotto in the center of each of 4 plates, set 1 scallops on top. Dot the blackberry sauce on the center of each scallop and drizzle more around the plate to taste. Garnish with guanciale and parsley. Serve warm. You may alternatively arrange the ingredients on a serving platter and let guests help themselves.

Source: Inspired by Kado Restaurant in Los Angeles