lemon zest

Market Matters- Flirting with Grilled Squid & Miner's Lettuce Salad

15 Jan 2012
Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad and Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto

The Hollywood Farmers Market inspires me. This Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad & Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto is proof.

I didn't wake up this morning thinking that this was what I wanted for lunch. But a trip up and down Ivar filled my bag with all the ingredients (except the garbanzo beans) that I needed to fully realize this recipe. I guess it's been sleeping inside me for some time. Waiting for its moment.

It's moment came when miner's lettuce showed itself to me. It was right there. Just across the street from the Hollywood branch of the public library. Saying, "Look at me, I am an ingredient you've read about but have never used before. Lettuce make some trouble".

It was practically a illicit proposal, I'll have you know. I mean I always knew greens were hot. But these greens were smokin'! How could I resist? I am mean if lettuce could talk, this lettuce was screaming, "Take me as I am, or watch me as I go."

So I countered, "If beauty were time, you'd be eternity." After all, if you know me at all then you know "I can resist everything except temptation!"

GREG

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Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad & Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto

Grilled Squid with Miner's Lettuce Salad & Mint, Parsley, Anchovy Pesto
By jgreghenry Published January 15, 2012
Prep time: 150
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 2 t finely grated lemon zest, separated
  • 2 T fresh lemon juice
  • 2 clv galic, peeled & minced
  • 1 t pimentón de la vera (smoked spanish paprika)
  • 1 c extra-virgin olive oil separated
  • 2 c chopped flat-leaf parsley, chopped and separated
  • 1 lb cleaned small squid bodies
  • 1 pn salt & pepper as needed
  • 4 oz anchovy fillets, chopped
  • 2 T drained capers
  • 2 medium shallot, minced and separated
  • 0.5 c mint leaves, chopped
  • 0.75 c extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 bn miner's lettuce
  • 1 c cooked or canned chickpeas
  • 0.25 c whole mint leaves
  • 0.25 c whole flat-leaf parsley

Directions

In a medium bowl, combine 1 teaspoon lemon zest and 2 tablespoons lemon juice with 1 clove minced garlic, pimentón, 1/4 cup olive oil and 1/4 cup of the chopped parsley. Add the squid and toss to coat. Season lightly with salt & pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
In a food processor, combine the anchovies with the capers, 1 minced shallot, remaining minced garlic, 1 1/2 cup chopped parsley, 1/2 cup chopped mint, chives and remaining lemon zest and 2 tablespoons lemon juice and pulse the machine 10 or 12 times, scraping down the sides once or twice until finely minced. Then with the machine running, slowly pour in 1/2 cup olive oil. Season the pesto with additional salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, pour the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice over the remaining minced shallot and let stand for 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add the miner's lettuce, chickpeas, whole mint leaves and whole parsley leaves and toss the salad.

Meanwhile, light a grill. Remove the squid from the marinade and season with salt. Grill the squid over high heat until it is lightly charred and just cooked, about 2 minutes per side. Mound the salad on 4 plates. Spoon the green sauce onto the plates, top with the grilled squid and serve.

Source: Adapted from Matthew Dillon for Food & Wine

How to Jam Italian Crostate Style

06 Jan 2012
Fig Jam Crostate

Jam-Filled Italian Crostate (or crostata if you prefer). It's hard to walk into any bakery or pasticceria in Italy and not notice these little hand-pies right away. They are usually lattice-topped. But the lattice is typically a bit different in appearance than what we North American's might expect on a lattice-topped pie.

That's because Italians roll out thin strands of dough for the tops of these sweet pastries. They're typically among the most rustic and humble of all the treats these shops offer. But there's a mighty wallop of flavor packed into them.

The crust is often just as sweet as the jam, making this little tart seem more like a big cookie than a pie. In general these sweet doughs are called pasta frolla and they are rich and buttery. I use a recipe adapted from Dominica Marchetti that's enhanced with a little lemon and orange zest. It has a crumbly, shortbread texture when baked, and should not be handled too much in the preparation as it can get rather tough with too much work.

I have seen other interesting versions too. Nancy Silverton uses sesame seeds in the pasta frolla dough in her new book, The Mozza Cookbook with Matt Molina & Carolyn Carreno. I have never seen sesame seeds in the crusts during my travels, but there's something about the idea that just feels right to me. So I have added her version to my must make list.

However, as an introduction to crostate I have decided to bring you a style as close in feeling to the the version I first experienced in Italy. That means the simplest of crumbly, sweet dough filled with the very best jam I can get my hands on.

I don't usually make the jam specifically for crostate. Crostate are often made on a whim, so I use what ever I have on hand– straight from the jar. My advice is always have some good jam around the house. Or better yet, put aside some of your own homemade jam, as I do every summer with the figs from my neighborhood. GREG

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Jam-Filled Italian Crostate

jam-filled crostate
By jgreghenry Published January 5, 2012
Prep time: 120
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 3 c unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
  • 1 c confectioners sugar
  • 1 pn kosher salt
  • 0.125 t baking soda
  • 0.125 t baking powder
  • 1 t lemon zest
  • 1 t orange zest
  • 1 c cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 1 oz large egg
  • 2 oz large egg yolks
  • 8 heaping tablespoons jam. i used fig

Directions

Make the crust: Put the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda,  baking powder and lemon and orange zests in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse briefly to combine the ingredients. Distribute the butter pieces around the bowl and pulse until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. Add the egg and egg yolks and process until the dough just begins to come together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gather it together. Knead it briefly and shape it into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until well chilled (overnight is fine, as is frozen up to 1 month).

Form the crostates: Thaw dough in the refrigerator if frozen. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes, or until it is just pliable enough to roll, but not too soft to work with.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Set aside.

Dust a cool flat working surface with flour. Dust a rolling pin with flour. Cut the dough in half then roll half to about 1/4-inch thickness. Set it aside in the refrigerator as you roll out the other half. Use a plate about 6-inches in diameter as a stencil and cut out four rounds. Save the scraps for the lattice. Repeat the process with the other half of the dough. You should get eight 6-inch rounds. Place four on each prepared baking sheet. Chill the scraps.

Roll the edges of each round inward forming a 1/2-inch rim. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of jam into the center of each round, then smooth the jam right up to the edge of the rim. Repat with all the rounds.

Remove the scraps from the refrigerator. Then pinch of a ping pong ball sized piece and roll it out with your fingertips to create a long, thin noodle like strand about 1/4-inch in diameter. Continue to roll the remaining dough then cut the strands into forty-eight 6-inch pieces.

Lay three strands evenly spaced across each jam-topped dough round. Then lay three more at an angle, creating a diamond-shaped lattice on each jam-topped dough round. Trim the strands with your fingertips, pinching them into place to stick.

Cover the baking sheets with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to one day.

To bake: Adjust the oven racks so that one is on the top third and the other is on the bottom third of the oven. Heat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Remove the baking sheets from the refrigerator, take off the plastic wrap and bake about 25-30 minutes, rotating the sheets halfway through, until golden. Remove the sheets to cool on a rack to room temperature.

Hey Mr. Marketing Man. What The Heck is Broccolini?

26 Oct 2011
Broccolini with Fried Lemon

What the heck is Broccolini?

I swear it's a new invention– if food can be an "invention". Broccolini is in fact a copyrighted brand name– if vegetables can have brand names. So naturally, you know me, I have curmudgeonly resisted buying it. Because some vegetable cooked up by marketing geniuses looking for a vegetable to fill a market niche just has to be bad, huh? You know the niche I am talking about too. You are a part of it and so am I. We are the people always looking for something new. And we have a specific list of requirements when it comes to the latest thing for our plates. Pretty. Healthy. Easy. Delicious.

Enter Broccolini. It's presence on the plate and even its name is reminiscent of the Italian staple Rapini (broccoli rabe), without that annoying bitter edge most kids and even some adults won't get near. Making it: Pretty. Healthy. Easy. Delicious.

Let's face it. These marketing geniuses know exactly what people like us are looking for– they've done studies. So naturally I resisted it. I refuse to be studied. I mean the head honchos at Big Agro can't manipulate me, right? Right?

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