five-spice powder

duck sliders with fig ketchup

Today's journey to Duck Sliders with Fig Ketchup was a group effort. Part of that group includes my brother Grant who paired this recipe with Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2009.

But there is more to the story than that. You see, I have had duck burgers in restaurants. Both times I found fault with the preparation. Let’s face it; duck can be fatty, and rich. I love fatty… and rich too. But a 1/2-pound of fatty and rich on huge buttery brioche bun makes me a little queasy.

The other version of a duck burger I shunned was closer to duck confit on a bun. More like a Sloppy Joe than a proper burger. Had they called it a Dirty Donald or something similar and served it open-faced with poached duck egg I might have dubbed it genius. But alas, they served it with lettuce and tomato. I ended up just feeling sorry for that once proud confit.

So I set off to invent my own. The lessons I learned are two-fold. One: less is more, and Two: burgers have rules, and evidently I can be a fanatic about those rules. One of the rules I fanaticize about is simple. I like burgers to have the proper condiments. Burgers like ketchup. People like burgers with ketchup. My ground duck concoction would have ketchup.

But not just any ole Heinz will do. Duck is a fairly complex flavor, to avoid getting tagged with the "gamey" moniker it's best to augment its assets. I think duck pairs nicely with fruit and spice and sweet. It can stand up to bold acidity too. Ketchup is all those things– fig ketchup is all those things and more.

Sippity Sup Continues »

Duck Sliders with Fig Ketchup

duck slider with fig ketchup
Prep time: 180
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 1 lb figs, quartered
  • 0.5 lb diced tomatoes, use roma or other 'paste’ variety
  • 1 t coriander seeds
  • 1 t cumin seeds
  • 0.5 c palm sugar
  • 1 c malt vinegar, plus more to taste
  • 3 T pomegranate molasses, or substitute with honey
  • 0.5 t cayenne pepper, or to taste
  • 1 t thai style chili paste
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 fresh bay leaf
  • 6 boneless duck breast halves, with skin
  • 0.5 c cilantro leaves, loosely packred
  • 0.5 c panko breadcrumbs, as needed
  • 6 scallions
  • 1 t five-spice powder
  • 1 t sriracha sauce
  • 1 pn salt and pepper, as needed
  • 12 filipino pandesal rolls
  • 1 c napa cabbage, shredded

Directions

Make the fig ketchup: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lay figs onto a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Lay the tomatoes onto a separate parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast them both in the oven until they begin to color, about 15 minutes for figs about 20 minutes for tomatoes.

In a medium sauce pot, toast the coriander and cumin over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the roasted figs and tomatoes, scrapping up as much of the juice and crusty parts as possible, palm sugar, vinegar, pomegranate molasses, cayenne pepper, cinnamon stick, and bay leaf. Raise the heat to high and cook until the mixture reaches a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until it’s thick and jam-like, about 30 minutes. Let cool.

Discard the cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Use a blender or food processor to thoroughly puree the mixture, adding a splash of extra vinegar to achieve the proper consistency if necessary. Taste and adjust acidity with more vinegar to taste. Refrigerate for several hours before using.

Make the duck patties: Remove the skin from the duck breasts, then roughly chop them. Place the duck breasts and 1 of the skins (also chopped) in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 6 or 8 times until well combined and the texture resembles slightly wet, coarsely ground beef.

Transfer the duck mixture to a large bowl. Roughly chop about half of the cilantro. Add 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs, scallions, the chopped cilantro, five-spice powder, sriracha sauce, salt and pepper to the bowl. Next, handling the meat as little as possible to avoid compacting it, mix well. You be the judge if you think you need more breadcrumbs, add too many and the burgers will get rubbery, but the meat should hold together when pinched (but just barely). Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions and form the portions into patties to fit the pandesal rolls.

Grill and assemble the sliders: Prepare a medium-hot fire for both direct and indirect cooking in a charcoal grill with a cover, or preheat a gas grill to medium-high.

Brush the grill rack with vegetable oil. Place the patties on the direct heat area of the rack, cover, and cook, turning once, just until done, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Watch for flare ups. During the last few minutes of cooking, place the pandesal rolls, cut side down, on the indirect edges of the rack to toast lightly.

To assemble the burgers, place some shredded Napa cabbage, cilantro leaves onto the roll bottoms, place a duck slider on top. Spoon on some of the fig ketchup to taste. Add the roll tops and serve.

Thai Bird Chili Wings, More Napkins Please!

Wings are messy, and that's a good thing.

Wings remind us that it's okay to be a carnivore. They remind us of a simpler time sitting around the cave with that trendy new cooking device someone cleverly named "fire". Remember how proud you were to be the first neanderthal on the block with an indoor inferno?

But there is more to wings than primitive domination of lesser creatures. Wings have more modern pleasures as well. Wings make it okay to dribble hot sauce all over those brand new $245 jeans. Because stains only make them better, right?

Wings make kids and grandmas alike stick their face in their food and giggle while the eat.

But the best thing about wings is the way you feel after you have devoured an entire plate full. No need to feel guilty in overindulgence. Because bragging rights are the best part about eating wings. Not only is it cool to pig out on wings. It's a badge of honor. Eating 4 or 5 wings may fill you up, but eating 20 or 30 moves you to the head of the table; often to rowdy cheers, chants, hoots and hollars!

Sippity Sup Continues »

Thai Bird Chili Wings

Thai Bird Chili Wings from Sippity Sup
Prep time: 90
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 30 chicken wings, tips removed
  • 6 clv garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 pn salt
  • 3 T thai chili paste
  • 1 T chinese 5 spice powder
  • 1 c honey
  • 0.25 c soy sauce
  • 0.25 c rice vinegar
  • 2 T asian fish sauce
  • 2 T toasted sesame oil
  • 1 bn cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
  • 1 bn green onions, white and light green parts only, sliced
  • 6 thai bird chilies, or more to taste, cut into thin rounds

Directions

Preheat oven to 425 degree F. bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of kosher salt and the chicken wings. Cook for 5 minutes. Drain the wings and pat dry with a paper towel. Using a mortar and pestle work the minced garlic into a paste. A pinch of coarse salt will aid in this process. Mix in 2 tablespoons Thai chili paste and the Chinese five-spice powder until well incorporated. Scrape this mixture into a very large bowl. Add the honey, soy sauce, rice vinegar, fish sauce, sesame oil, and Thai bird chile slices. Whisk well. Add the wings, stirring to get them well coated. Let the wings sit in the marinade about 1 hour, stirring them once or twice. Arrange the wings in a single layer on two foil-lined baking sheets. Drizzle the wings with some of the marinade and put them into the preheated oven. Immediately turn the heat down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn the wings over and drizzle on more marinade. Rotate the pans and bake another 15 minutes. While the wings cook pour the marinade into a small sauce pan set over medium-high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil and then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and keep warm until serving. Once the wings have cooked pour them and all their pan juices onto 1 large serving platter. Drizzle the hot marinade over the top and garnish with green onions and cilantro. Serve hot with plenty of napkins.

Notes:

serves 1-10 as an appetizer