black sesame seeds

Why I Hate Cookies: Confessions of a Curmudgeon

07 Sep 2011
lace cookies

I don't really hate cookies. In fact of all the simple sweet treats I like cookies best. The bestest in fact. But cookies are potent symbols for everything that bugs me about Internet food writers. Especially when it comes to chocolate chip cookies. Do you know how many recipes there are on the web for "perfect" chocolate chip cookies? Quite a few it turns out– but nowhere near as many as the phrase "the best" chocolate chip cookies.

Of course we can't blame food bloggers entirely for taking the phrase "the best" and editorially pissing all over it until it means absolutely nothing. Because the revered New York Times may have started this war of the superlatives back in 2008 when it dubbed one recipe the "perfect" chocolate chip cookie. In fact they suggested sainthood for Madame Toll House herself. Talk about effusive!

The recipe I refer to is by Jacques Torres. You can find it just about anywhere. Simply type in the phrase "the best chocolate chip cookies– EVER" and you'll find it. So I won't bother to reproduce it here. Besides I am not really talking about chocolate chip cookies. In fact cookies in general are just the metaphor I choose to use.

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Black Sesame Lace Cookies

Black Sesame Lace Cookies
By jgreghenry Published September 6, 2011
Prep time: 300
Yield:1 (Servings)

Ingredients:

  • 100 g unsalted butter
  • 100 g granulated sugar
  • 100 g light brown sugar, packed
  • 75 g all-purpose flour
  • 80 g fresh orange juice
  • 3 T black sesame seeds

Directions

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer or a wooden spoon), cream the butter until creamy and light, about 2 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and brown sugar and continue to beat on medium speed for about 1 minute, or until combined. Turn the speed down to low and add the flour and mix until well combined. Slowly drizzle in the orange juice and mix for about 30 seconds; the mixture will look a little broken, which is okay. Mix in the sesame seeds. Transfer the batter to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to 1 week. When ready to bake cookies, position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees F (325 degrees F for convection). Line a very flat baking sheet with parchment paper. (This batter spreads like crazy, so you have to use an extremely flat baking sheet in order for the cookies to bake in circles and not amoeba-like shapes.) Pinch off rounded tablespoon-size balls of dough and place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them at least 3 inches apart to allow for spreading. Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the cookies are completely golden brown throughout. Let cool completely (they must be firm to the touch) on the baking sheet on a wire rack. Gently remove the cookies from the parchment. The cookies can be stored, in layers separated with sheets of parchment paper or waxed paper, in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Source: Adapted from the cookbook "Flour" by Joanne Chang

Notes from the Kona Coast: Ogo Slaw

02 Sep 2010
ogo seaweed slaw

I am in Hawaii on the Big Island along the Kona Coast.

The ocean is wherever you look – and I can’t help but think of its relation to the food traditions of these islands.

When we think of seafood we tend to think fish first. There is fish aplenty in these islands. You can be sure of that. But there is vegetation from the sea too. It has the generic and slightly unappetizing name name of seaweed, but don’t let that moniker scare you off this delicious and healthy taste treat from the sea.

But if you just can’t get past the word I suggest you get to know this vegetable by it’s Hawaiian name, limu.

Here limu traditionally meant any type of plant living in the sea. But as Hawaiian words began to find their way into the vocabulary of English speakers that came to dominate the island limu has come to be known as any type of edible seaweed, of which there are several varieties.

One of these varieties is Ogo. Now ogo is the Japanese generic word for seaweed, but it has also been adapted by English speaking Hawaiians to mean a specific type of edible seaweed.

Today I have a seaweed salad using two types of limu: ogo and arame. More specifically I’d call it a slaw, and whether you choose to call the main component of this salad limu or ogo it is worth seeking out for the briny flavor and crunchy texture it brings.

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Seaweed Slaw

ogo seaweed slaw
By jgreghenry Published September 1, 2010
Prep time: 5
Yield:1 ()

Ingredients:

  • 2 c thick ogo, chopped as needed
  • 0.5 c chinese red cabbage, shredded
  • 0.5 c carrots, shredded
  • 0.5 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
  • 0.5 c daikon, thinly sliced
  • 0.5 c shitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
  • 3 green onions, thinly sliced
  • 2 hawaiina red chili peppers, or similar (optional)
  • 2 T sugar
  • 1 t red pepper flakes
  • 0.25 c cilantro, chopped
  • 2 T black sesame seeds
  • 1 T ginger, peeled and grated
  • 2 T olive oil
  • 1 T asian fish sauce
  • 1 c arame seaweed (or prepared ocean salad) as garnish

Directions

Mix all the ingredients together in a large serving bowl except arame (ocean salad). Mix well. Top with arame as garnish.

Notes:

serves 6 Source: Inspired by Sam Choy