Creating Salmon Loaf en Croûte one Chef at a Time

29 Jan 2010
Posted by jgreghenry
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I have so many little people to thank for this recipe!

I never could have done it were it not for the bold pioneers who went before me. Although the inspiration for this recipe may come from many, I have decided to take all the credit myself! And if I cry and sniffle a little whilst taking all the credit, people will cheer me on as an underdog. The little guy who beat "the man".

That's me– The Little Engine That Could!  I believe this is the way you get ahead in the world, n'est-ce pas?

Because truthfully I did have many an inspiration when I sat down and started putting this recipe together. One of the primary "little people" involved in this dish is a quaint cook named Daniel Boulud. Perhaps you've heard if him? He runs a charming little self-named cafe on an island somewhere. It's a bit off the beaten track on East 76th Street, I believe. If you ever find yourself in that part of the world you must pop in. Tell him Sup! sez Hi...

prepping salmon crouteBut even monsieur Boulud had a bit of inspiration when he went into the kitchen to prepare his version of Sea Bass en Croûte. Because his recipe (and mine) were both based on a dish that epitomized haute cuisine in the 1950s. It's hard to imagine today the wonder and spectacle that must have wowed mid-century diners in Vienne, France.  Because the showmanship that went into the original version of this recipe barely exists in today’s gastronomic world.

Imagine if you can, a whole sea bass baked into a shell of golden puff pastry. Can't you just see the waiters dramatically carrying this marvel through the dining room and delivering it with panache tableside? Its delicate croûte fancifully styled into the form of a fashionable fish. Well the world had never seen such a thing, and the chef that brought this culinary masterpiece from the kitchen was Fernand Point, the father of modern French cuisine.

salmon en croute prepI read that another chef was so impressed with this preparation that he made it a point to learn its secret form the creator himself (I don't mean the capital C Creator, I mean the original chef). This determined new chef was Paul Bocuse who went on to make a bit of a name for himself as well. Well, as these things are prone to, the inspiration passed along to the aforementioned monsieur Boulud. Daniel Boulud uses sea bass, as did his predecessors. But while they chose to present the whole fish encased in pastry, monsieur Boulud uses sea bass fillets. A much more palatable alternative to today’s finicky diner (none of those troublesome bones to deal with).

Well, now it's my turn to throw my minimal heft behind this dish. I simplified and modernized the recipe even further. I use salmon in the form of a loaf. This way I can pre-season the fish and add an extra level of tasty ingredients. Because let's face it– salmon served simple and rare is a treat. salmon croute ready for ovenSalmon cooked all the way through is a little blah... I think it benefits from the ingredients I add to the loaf. I also include a few diced vegetables and a rich cream sauce, as does monsieur Boulud. But the salmon loaf, in conjunction with store bought pastry, makes this a simple recipe that will bring a little sadly missed culinary drama to your table with out too much effort!

And yes, I shaped mine like a fish too. Because when I see a great idea, I am not afraid to steal it...

CLICK Here for a printable version Salmon Loaf en Croûte serves 6

1 1⁄2 lb boned and skinned raw salmon, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 T drained capers, chopped
1 1⁄2 c panko (japanese) bread crumbs
2 T lemon juice
MacRostie Chardonnay Food Pairing1⁄2 t salt
1⁄2 t pepper
2 large egg, lightly beaten
1⁄4 c olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4" dice
1 stalks celery, cut in 1/4" dice
1 small zucchini, scrubbed, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1⁄2 red onion, chopped in 1/4 inch dice
1 t thyme leaves
salt and pepper
2 egg yolks, beaten with 1 teaspoon water for egg wash
2 t canola oil
1 shallots, minced
2 c heavy cream
1 roma tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
2 T chives, minced
salt and white pepper to taste
6 sheets store bought puff pastry, cut in half lengthwise forming 12 rectangles

Salmon Loaves:

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the salmon cubes several times until coarsely ground (there will still be flakes of salmon). Remove the ground salmon to a large bowl, and stir in the capers, bread crumbs, lemon juice, pepper, salt and egg until the mixture is uniform and fully combined. Divide the mixture into 6 oval loaves.

Vegetables:

Warm the olive oil in a large sauté pan or skillet set over medium-low heat. When it is hot add the vegetables and chopped thyme, season with salt and pepper. Cook the mixture, covered, until the vegetables are tender; about 12-15 minutes. Adjust seasoning. This is your last opportunity to do so with these vegetables.

Croûte:

Cut six pieces of parchment, slightly larger than your pastry rectangles and lay one out in front of you. Center one rectangle of pastry onto the parchment. Scoop about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the vegetables onto the center of the pastry. Don't use too much because if it get onto the pastry in areas outside the parameter of the salmon loaf  the pastry will be difficult to seal. Lay a salmon loaf on top of the vegetables, again I stress, keep the veggies completely underneath the salmon loaf. Lay another sheet of pastry on top of the salmon loaf. Letting the weight of the pastry be your guide, let the top piece drape over the fish and vegetables, allowing it to meet the bottom piece of pastry with out too much stretching.

Using your fingers gently press the top of the packet until flat and smooth. Then press the dough up against the sides of the loaf sealing it in all around the bottom, right up against the loaf all the way to the edge of the pastry. Use the side of a knife to assure a good tight seal.

Next you have 2 options. You could trim each packet with a 1/2" lip all the way around making a nice neat oval. Or you could be fanciful and shape each packet into an interesting shaped fish! Use the trimmings to form fins, gills, mouth and eyes. Be as creative as you like. You can even use various tools to form impression into the dough mimicking scales, be careful not to cut all the way through the pastry. Once you are finished shaping and decorating use your fingers to double check the seal all around the edges of the packet.

Brush the surface of the dough with the egg wash, being careful not to let it drip onto the parchment as this would make it difficult to remove after baking. Carefully lift your finished product using the parchment paper to move it to a baking sheet. Place the finished product, baking sheet and all, into the refrigerator while you repeat the process five more times. They may be made ahead to this point up to one day in advance if well covered and refrigerated, though in that case I would reapply an egg wash just before cooking.

fish en crouteTo Cook:

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F., and bake the fish for 5 minutes. Then lower the heat to 375 degrees F and bake 15 minutes more, or until the pastry is beautifully puffed and richly colored. Make the sauce while the fish cooks.

Sauce:

Warm the canola oil in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat. Add the shallot, cooking and stirring until the shallot gets soft but does not yet color; about 5 minutes. Pour in the cream and bring to a low boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Let the mixture cook until it is reduced some and thickened; about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tomato and chives. Taste for seasoning.

To Serve:

Place each salmon loaf en croûte onto an individual plate, spooning a bit of sauce around, not over the croûte.

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

Comments

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This dish looks so amazing.

This dish looks so amazing. I saw the picture and knew I had to check out this post when I had a bit more time. What a work of art. I have to make it but know at least aesticially, I'll never have anything close. Wow, is all I have to say.

Posted by OysterCulture (not verified) | Feb 14th, 2010 at 9:48 pm | Reply

wow, look at that, I'm

wow, look at that, I'm already drooling, great color, looks delicious

Posted by kate (not verified) | Feb 7th, 2010 at 8:09 pm | Reply

This is my next project

Last summer we attended the IPNC in Oregon and a chef from Timberline Lodge made a WONderful salmon and halibut en croute with lobster sauce. Talk about "to die for" I've wanted to try this for months. And well what can I say about that fish shaped pastry!!! devilishly clever. I'm still not getting your posts by feeds, have to remember on my own to stop by - annoying. As always, GREAT post.

Posted by Lea Ann (not verified) | Feb 6th, 2010 at 7:08 am | Reply

I love your fish, look

I love your fish, look georgeous!!! and yummy, love your pictures, gloria

Posted by Gloria (not verified) | Feb 2nd, 2010 at 5:39 pm | Reply

TKS!

TKS!

Posted by jgreghenry | Feb 2nd, 2010 at 5:43 pm | Reply

Yummy I cant wait to try this

Yummy I cant wait to try this recipe

Posted by Spiele (not verified) | Feb 1st, 2010 at 7:59 am | Reply

HOW CUTE! I LOVE the fish!!

HOW CUTE! I LOVE the fish!! and the fish platter you served it on. Fantastic looking recipe and presentation.

Posted by Chantal (not verified) | Jan 31st, 2010 at 6:27 am | Reply

Yummy and pretty perfect good

Yummy and pretty
perfect good job

Posted by Amedy (not verified) | Jan 30th, 2010 at 1:49 pm | Reply

You food artist you

I knew those plates hung in your kitchen for a reason. I would never think of chopping up the salmon. Hmmm, now I"m going to have to step out of my box.

Posted by Anglela@spinachtiger (not verified) | Jan 30th, 2010 at 6:46 am | Reply

This is one of the most

This is one of the most beautiful things I've seen on your blog yet keeping that familiar Sup sense of humor. Love the fish! But this is truly a WOW dish! Fantastic! And yes I think you have added so much flavor, made it more interesting and intriguing with all that you blended into the salmon itself and then the sauce. Wow, Greg, you never cease to amaze me!

Posted by Jamie (not verified) | Jan 30th, 2010 at 1:30 am | Reply

Anything wrapped in puff

Anything wrapped in puff pastry is a big winner in my book! Are you going to the Master Chef audition on Sunday?

Posted by Esi (not verified) | Jan 30th, 2010 at 1:09 am | Reply

Fun presentation

Classic,fun,beautiful and artistic! I can't believe that those sites rejected the last photo, I loved the seaweed aspect along the bottom, actually that was one of the aspects of the photo I was drawn to!

Posted by sarah (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:26 pm | Reply

I know...

I must keep my mouth shut though, or they'll ban me. I think I have already been limitedly banned. I'm such a whiner... GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:44 pm | Reply

You're in good company

Boulud, Bocuse and Sup! Dish looks as good inside as it did outside. Still loving it.

Posted by Joan Nova (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 1:54 pm | Reply

No...

...I am in good company because you are here. GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 7:59 pm | Reply

That last photo

is STUNNINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!

Posted by Kitchen Butterfly (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 1:42 pm | Reply

Thanks,

But the PhotoBullies at TasteHating BOTH rejected it for "composition" issues. I guess they did not "get" that the green stuff at the bottom was seaweed, and my FISH was a FISH! My guess is if it's not computer generated they don't get "it". GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:07 pm | Reply

Lightness for my soul

....everytime I stop by. And of course.....take allt he credit! Looks good too.

Posted by Kitchen Butterfly (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 1:40 pm | Reply

No...

You are the lightness for MY soul. GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:09 pm | Reply

Talented presentation

Creative and funny, I love it. He kind of looks like Nemo.

Posted by Chris (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 1:28 pm | Reply

I knew you'd "get" it...

... but do not try and convince me that we are the same person. It freaks me out... GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:11 pm | Reply

This is so not the Salmon Loaf my mother-in-law makes

Hearing the words "Salmon Loaf" takes me back to the mid 80's when my husband I first met. One of the first dinners I had at my now mother-in law's home was Salmon Loaf....this is so not my mother-in-laws salmon loaf!

Thanks to this recipe, I may now redirect my thoughts to a dish that sounds a whole lot better. How 'bout "Tuna Surprise" ? Can you help me out with that one too?

Posted by Debi(Table Talk) (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 12:04 pm | Reply

I guess that is a good thing...

...because if it were that would make me your mother-in-law! GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 12:48 pm | Reply

Fun and Tasty?

Now that's my kind of dinner. This looks so rich with the puff pastry and cream sauce, but I imagine it was delicious. Your "fishes" turned out great!

Posted by Dawn (KitchenTravels) (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 10:24 am | Reply

Delicious!

This looks amazing and not too hard either. I also love that you used salmon in this. I'm going to bookmark it for my next dinner party. Thanks for sharing...

Posted by Peter G @ Souvlaki For The Soul (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 9:55 am | Reply

could you be more awesome?

Fish in fish-shaped puff pastry on a fish-shaped plate? You are officially too awesome for words.

Posted by my boyfriend cooks for me (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:45 am | Reply

Well.

I could live in an Aquarium I suppose. Hey, maybe I do... maybe we all do! GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 9:44 am | Reply

It's official

This is now my favorite dish on your site. I am sooooo stealing it from you :)

Eric

Posted by Eric (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 8:38 am | Reply

Good

That's the point of the story. GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 9:40 am | Reply

That's just lovely . . .

It deserves to be included in the pantheon of pastry-encrusted poisson!

Posted by Tangled Noodle (not verified) | Jan 29th, 2010 at 6:57 am | Reply

It's no Bocuse...

...but I was pretty proud of it. GREG

Posted by jgreghenry | Jan 29th, 2010 at 9:42 am | Reply

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