Brown Butter Tomato Soup So Good I could Cry

24 Nov 2012
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Brown Butter Tomato Soup

This Brown Butter Tomato Soup made me a bit weepy. The kind of weepy that makes you glad to be alive. The kind of weepy that makes you stop doing whatever it is you're doing and take a bite out of life. Or in this case a slurp. In other words it's damn good tomato soup. But is it the soup alone that's so good? Or is it more complicated?

Take Thanksgiving. My Thanksgivings often flesh out the phrase "too many cooks spoil the broth". I make lists. I make suggestions. I aim for elegant. But in the end I smile at my friends and settle for dried out turkey and potatoes so rich I wouldn't touch them 364 days a year. Because as we cook together I realize that all cranberries sparkle– even those that come in a can. Green beans don't have to be served tender-crisp. By the third helping, pumpkin pie no longer seems laughable to me. Yes, the kitchen is a mess. But what a beautiful mess, filled with beautiful people.

But this tomato soup is a different story. Its pleasures are more simple. More solitary. It's an everyday kind of food. Prepared leisurely by a lone cook in a tidy kitchen and served at a table for two. I made this soup on the day after the day after Thanksgiving. Which I consider a very, very good day to make soup.

I make soup a lot. I consider it the simplest of things. This soup started with no expectations. Well, I shouldn't say no expectations. I expected it to be good. I just didn't quite know how I would get it there. Though I knew I would enjoy the process. I also knew I wanted to include a bit of celery seed, some marjoram and a touch or two of cream. I had just returned from Seattle where I sensed celery seed and marjoram in the soup we enjoyed from Tom Douglas and the Dahlia Lounge. Good intentions and good ingredients. That's a road map in my mind.

I also wanted to use good canned tomatoes. I've been meaning to get all preachy about the benefits of good canned tomatoes. This soup seemed like the right time to do just that. Because as any decent cook knows, a good canned tomato is worth a hundred off-season fresh versions. Tomato soup (at least the way I meant to go) is decidedly an off-season tomato recipe.

But as I was making the soup. All the canned quips I'd planned seemed to simmer away– lost in the broth. Even the small kitchen battles I'd waged just two days prior no longer seemed to matter. Because good soup (and good friends) can make me weepy.

I sure hope you had a good Thanksgiving. I did. GREG

Brown Butter Tomato Soup serves 6 CLICK here for a printable recipe

  • 4 T unsalted butter, divided
  • 2 T olive oil, separated
  • 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 4 clv garlic, peeled & lightly smashed
  • 2 (28 oz) cans san marzano tomatoes
  • 1 c water
  • 1 c cream
  • 1/2 t kosher salt, plus more as needed
  • 1/4 t freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1/4 t crushed red pepper
  • 1/4 t celery seeds
  • 1/4 t dried marjoram
  • 1 T sugar
  • 3 sli rustic bread, crusts trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saucepan; sauté the onion and garlic until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with the juice, water, cream, salt, pepper, red pepper, celery seeds, marjoram, and sugar. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and use an immersion blender to purée until completely smooth. Return the soup to low heat and simmer 20 more minutes.

Meanwhile, make the brown butter and croutons. Heat a large, heavy bottomed sauté pan over medium heat. Add the 3 tablespoons remaining  butter. As it begins to melt, start swirling the pan frequently and watching the butter carefully. You will notice the butter will get foamy, and then the milk solids will begin to brown. Once that starts, remove skillet from heat. Smell the butter; it should have a nutty aroma, and be caramel in color. Stir about 2/3 of the brown butter into the soup. Set the rest aside. Season the soup with more salt and pepper to taste

In a separate sauté pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium high heat. Add the bread cubes and toast, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and toss with remaining browned butter until absorbed.
 
Serve the soup garnished with the croutons.

Source: Inspired by Dahlia Lounge

Comments

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here we get great tomatoes

here we get great tomatoes till November so I'd try it with the fresh ones as well. What a splendid soup, love the seasoning.

TasteofBeirut (not verified) | Dec 12th, 2012 at 8:18 am | Reply

perfection.

Not only does your writing make me smile, but am eating this soup as I type-- and let me tell you it is AMAZING. Five-star recipe for sure. The soup is just the right amount of sweet and I like the hint of celery seed. Thank you for this delicious recipe. I will be making it again.  

Anonymous (not verified) | Nov 30th, 2012 at 6:34 pm | Reply

ahhh

I wish I knew who you were so I could thanks you directly. GREG

 

jgreghenry | Nov 30th, 2012 at 6:44 pm | Reply

a thing of beauty

Already pinned this!  That photo is GORGEOUS, Greg and the soup sounds wonderful too, I plan to make it.

But the second paragraph.  That.  That is so true. 

Chris (not verified) | Nov 27th, 2012 at 5:54 pm | Reply

I tend to want to be a

I tend to want to be a control freak around the holidays also, especially when it comes to food, but more often than not I give in. The holiday spirit makes me a softie, what can I say.  But when it comes to my daily meals - quality is key! And this soup is for sure quality stuff.

Joanne (not verified) | Nov 27th, 2012 at 6:38 am | Reply

Tomato Soup

You are sooooo right.  There is nothing in this world like a delicious bowl of tomato soup.  And my very sore throat sure would love to sip on the deliciousness that you made.  I also chuckled at your rendition of Thanksgiving.  I keep our Thanksgiving very intimate...tender crisp green beans for sure...and then Xmas is a veritable food fest where everything and too much of everything goes!!

thyme (Sarah) (not verified) | Nov 27th, 2012 at 6:31 am | Reply

I am almost weeping at the thought

of this soup! brown butter really is one of those decadent delicacies that take any food to the next level. Tomato soup is one of my very favorites, and I cannot wait to make this one - thank you!  Cheers

Kristina (not verified) | Nov 26th, 2012 at 7:29 pm | Reply

Just the words....

brown butter make me cry.  Tears of joy, that is.

Oui, Chef (not verified) | Nov 26th, 2012 at 10:35 am | Reply

This looks amazing! I love

This looks amazing! I love those croutons on top.  San Marzano tomatoes really are incredible!

sara (not verified) | Nov 25th, 2012 at 8:58 pm | Reply

How did you know?

Tomato soup is on my "after Thanksgiving" list.  Will put those good canned tomatoes on my list for this week. Thank you!

Mimi Avocado (not verified) | Nov 25th, 2012 at 5:46 pm | Reply

I can totally see how this

I can totally see how this soup made you weepy. Oh my gosh!! Yum!

Katrina @ Warm Vanilla Sugar (not verified) | Nov 25th, 2012 at 4:52 pm | Reply

Loved your description of

Loved your description of Thanksgiving and too many cooks. It made me smile, and smile again. We've all been there.

I don't think I've had tomato soup since I was a little girl (and that's a long time ago). I don't know why. Perhaps because I associate it with Campbell's which is the only way we ever had it.

Joan Nova (not verified) | Nov 25th, 2012 at 5:42 am | Reply

I'm weepy, too

Thanksgiving burned me out, since I'm the only cook. It was lovely to break bread with the small family I have left...but, I'm ready for something fresh. Something clean.  This fits the bill.  All I need to do is bake a fresh loaf of bread for the grilled cheese to go with-- not with that yellow stuff, but fontina.  Yeah. Love this recipe. Of course, I love your words even more. Heartfelt.

Foodiewife (not verified) | Nov 24th, 2012 at 7:59 pm | Reply

Yummy!

I've been looking for a good tomato soup recipe and I think I have just found it. Can't wait to try it! Thanks!

Therese (getpartychic.com) (not verified) | Nov 24th, 2012 at 5:44 pm | Reply

Wow

You write like nobody on the web. Not only can I taste it and feel it. I swear I lived it.

Liza (not verified) | Nov 24th, 2012 at 4:46 pm | Reply

Your writing makes me want to

Your writing makes me want to get in the kitchen and make this right away.  I'm all for food that makes me weepy (in a good way).

Cookin' Canuck (not verified) | Nov 24th, 2012 at 4:26 pm | Reply

Ha! With a title like that,

Ha! With a title like that, how could anyone not try this recipe?  I can't wait to try this!

Beth M (not verified) | Nov 24th, 2012 at 3:38 pm | Reply

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