Banh Mi, Oh My!

26 May 2009
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roasted pork bahn mi sandwichI am home! I am home! I am HOME!

I hope you noticed that Sup has been a little bit AWOL this past week. I was traveling. I wish I could say it was a vacation, but it was really mostly work stuff.

When these plans were made I had great hopes of posting from the road.  But, well one thing led to another BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. I am great at excuses aren't I?

In case you didn’t know. I was in San Francisco. I met The Daily Spud there too. Spud is not just a fabulous blogger, but as I can now attest, a fabulous person as well.  We had a great lunch at Zuni Cafe. I also met all the cool kids at FoodBuzz. Talk about a plum job!

But most importantly, I also finally experienced a proper Vietnamese banh mi (pronounced BUN-mee) sandwich. I bought one for Spud too. Which is sorta funny because we had just had a long lunch but we could not help ourselves from stopping in at Saigon Sandwiches on the way back to our hotels. There's nothing wrong with 2 lunches is there?

saigon sandwich shopNow, you may know this about me– but I can't just eat something as delicious as a roasted pork banh mi and leave it at that. Nope. I need to find out all I can about the sandwich, and then pass that info along to you. It's just how I am hard-wired. In fact I have a recipe for banh mi that I have adapted to SippitySup, which you can click to access.

Which brings me right back around to banh mi. I have never posted food on SippitySup that I did not make myself. In fact I usually try to not only cook the food, but write the recipe as well.

Today is an exception. This tasty sandwich was made by the busy bees at Saigon Sandwiches on Larkin near Eddy in San Francisco.

It's quite a place. If you have never been there it could be a bit intimidating.

The place is really not much more than a hole in the wall. There is one long counter, behind which they make the sandwiches. In front of the counter there is space for Vietnamese tid-bits and goodies. But these go mostly ignored because people seem to come for the sandwiches.

And come they do. I ate there 4 or 5 times in just a few days (and still spent less than 20 bucks). I also staked the place out several times and made sure I walked past it every time I could.

You know what. There is always a line out the door. The line gets crazy long at lunchtime too; longer than I had the patience for. So I tended to go in the off-hours for a second lunch or a pre-dinner, or a post-breakfast, or an afternoon snack experience. There was still a line, but no more than 10 or 12 minutes.

Here is the strange part. When it’s time to order they take 6 orders all at once. Then you are expected to stay in line, in the same placement in which you ordered and wait for your sandwich. They don’t seem to write anything down so if you get out of order then you get someone else’s food! Everyone in line seems to know these rules, so despite the strange system it goes very smoothly.

On my first visit I made the mistake of ordering and then walking outside until my sandwich was ready. One woman in line actually gasped! I do not think they were so worried that my order would get screwed up as much as they were afraid they themselves would get the wrong sandwich. There is not much recourse for mixed up orders. Because no English is spoken beyond-- Pork, Chicken, Fanci Por, Tofu, Everything, No Mayo and 3 Dolla. Because these are the only phrases you need to have a successful experience here. Well, "please" and "thank you" would be nice too.

In my multiple trips to Saigon Sandwiches I learned quite a bit about the place. By my last visit I even found myself gasping when some tourist walked in and tried to leave his place in line after ordering.

I realize that there is a very good chance you have no idea what I am talking about. You may be thinking-- "what is bahn mi and why has he been rambling on about it"?

Well, it's a sandwich. If you never eaten a banh mi sandwich let me try and initiate you.

Imagine all your favorite tastes and textures squeezed between really good baguette slabs. This thing has all the crisp, cold, salty, crunchy, drippy, creamy, warmth of a classically appealing bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich. But it does not stop there!

You also get the sweet undertones of garlic roasted pork butt, with the dusky notes of fermented anchovies. There is brightness and crunch from cilantro and carrots, plus a rush of coriander and screamingly spicy top-notes of jalapeno. There is an egg based mayo-like sauce that just marries all the flavors and glues all the ingredients to the super crunch of good baguette. Basically, it's a sandwich of intensely earthy sweetness and tang.

I am probably understating just how great this sandwich is. But I think you get my drift!

Now you must be wondering how baguettes and aioli could be in anyway a part of Vietnamese cuisine. Well, of course the answer lies in the history of Vietnam.

bahn mi ingredientsThe early part of the 20th century the French heavily colonized parts of Vietnam. Naturally (or un-naturally) they brought many of their food traditions with them.

The early versions of banh mi resembled a traditionally minimal Parisian sandwich; baguette, aioli with ham or pate.

But as more and more of the Vietnamese began to adopt the sandwich, it went from simple and understated to a riotous tumult of adornments; and this sandwich was soon elevated from good to great.

I live in L.A. so I am sure I can find me a good banh mi someplace nearby. But that is not going to stop me from making bahn mi at home. In fact I have a recipe for a fairly traditional banh mi you can find here.

But in the greatest of Vietnamese bahn mi traditions I might soon adapt it to where I live and what ingredients I have locally. I wonder what a classically “Hollywood” banh mi would look like? Any ideas?

SERIOUS FUN FOOD

Greg Henry

SippitySup

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Banh mi in London

Ca Phe VN has launched its own Banhmi – Banh Mi SaiGon – every Saturday at the Saigon Street Cafe – Benjamin Close, Broadway Market E8 10-5

5 pork, traditional Southern style baguette – excellent light bread with cha bong, steamed pork, cha, gammon ham, pate, pickled diakon & carrot, cucumber, spring onion, coriander, gravy, Vietnamese mayonaise & chilli.

Ca Phe VN 07780784696

Banh Mi SaiGon (not verified) | Mar 7th, 2010 at 5:03 am | Reply

bahn mi london

i love 'baguette+more' in greenwich: lovely 'banh mi dac biet', 'banh mi thit nuong' with grilled lemongrass-marinated pork, prawn rolls, mushroom soup, soft leaf-wrapped marinated beef…

however, yesterday tried 'viet baguette' on macbean st. in woolwich (NOT the west end one, which may be an unrelated business), and the 'banh mi dac biet' was very good. did get the impression that they were reining back the strongest condiment tastes (fish sauce, red chili, pickle vinegar), but good quality. I'll definitely go back, but ask for STRONGLY flavoured next time!)

steve dyke (not verified) | Sep 26th, 2009 at 11:57 pm | Reply

new banhmi place in London

new banh mi place in London at Broadway Market London every Saturday 9-5. check out new website www.banhmi11.com for more info.

Anonymous (not verified) | Jul 10th, 2009 at 7:25 am | Reply

I just finished reading the

I just finished reading the acticle for the 10th time and my mouth just waters. I live in London and I miss this sandwich so much. I actually go to the sandwich shop AND the pho shop as soon as I land, before I go home to see the family! If you are in Arlington, Texas, go to Ba Le as I think they have awesome sandwiches. The bread is like no ordinary. Yes you can get baguettes anywhere, but genuine Vietnamese baguettes are very crisp outside and almost like air inside. It has to cover you with crumbs by the time you are done eating as when you bite into the bread, it is so crunchy, it flakes off into a billion pieces and you end up wearing it. But there is no shame as your mouth and tummy will be so happy, who cares!

They make so many sandwiches there that the bread is sometimes fresh from the oven and still warm. One more advice Greg, next time try the traditional cold cut sandwich. It has headcheese in it - odd combo, but oh so classically Vietnamese. This sandwich is the closest I have tasted as compared to ones in Vietnam.

mary (not verified) | Jun 22nd, 2009 at 3:16 am | Reply

saigon sammich!

I was just surfing tastespotting when I saw a picture that looked exactly like the three dollar sandwich I go to the Tenderloin and risk being stabbed in line to acquire! Nothing against the wonderful patrons of Saigon Sandwiches, but the neighborhood is a bit...intense. I was delighted to find this glowing review of such an interesting San Francisco treasure!

Don't overlook the vietnamese tidbits on the counter. Those watermelon rinds are delish.

Leslie (not verified) | May 31st, 2009 at 4:06 pm | Reply

What a fun coincidence!

But to be fair it's tenderloin adjacent (but only slightly adjacent....like 1/2 block!). I like the place a lot GREG

jgreghenry | May 31st, 2009 at 4:46 pm | Reply

I'm a banh mi novice . . .

. . . I can't seem to break from ordering pho or bun cha but after hearing about its wonders from such trusted tastebuds, I promise that banh mi is my next order!

Tangled Noodle (not verified) | May 29th, 2009 at 8:42 pm | Reply

Thank you!!

A friend started talking about banh mi few days ago on another forum and then this popped up on Tastespotting. The synchronicity was such that I had to try it. I made it tonight and had my very first banh mi sandwich. And my second. Your recipe is wonderful and the sandwich delicious.

Thanks!

RevJen (not verified) | May 29th, 2009 at 7:22 pm | Reply

Wow!

You made it? That is so cool! But afterall what kind of blogger would I be if I could not read your minds....GREG

jgreghenry | May 29th, 2009 at 7:40 pm | Reply

You know, I've always seen

You know, I've always seen these Vitnamese delis and I've never tried them. I guess the spiciness intimidates me. I don't tolerate a lot of heat, you see, so I'm always terrified of purchasing something I won't be able to eat, I'm so cheap! But thanks for providing us with an at-home version. I'll make it and control the spicy-level, because they do looks lovely and very enjoyable! I'm glad you had a good trip, and I'm glad you're back :)

Marta (not verified) | May 28th, 2009 at 10:18 am | Reply

Favorite

This is my all time favorite sandwich. I could eat them every day. I take the train down to a Viet part of town just to get these. Usually one or two along with a bowl of bun kho. Who needs wrongway when you can get one of these for $3. Great post.

Stash (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 10:20 pm | Reply

I've never had one! It

I've never had one! It looks so good! I need to learn more about Vietnamese cuisine. Your great post is a good start!

Natasha - 5 Star Foodie (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 5:19 pm | Reply

WOW!

I should mail you one! You (of all people in the world) would truly appreciate it. GREG

jgreghenry | May 27th, 2009 at 5:29 pm | Reply

Always Entertaining

This was an entertaining post as usual! I of course would get the tofu version, but if I understand what you are saying, the experience is just as important as the sandwich. I think I would be freaked out the first time I walked in there, but now I know what to do...if I ever make it out west.

It sounds like you had a great time, especially with the Spud! Awesome.

GrilledShane (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 3:56 pm | Reply

true...

...all true. GREG

jgreghenry | May 27th, 2009 at 4:05 pm | Reply

:)

its my first time here and already loving it. The bahn mi sounds great..wonder if you also get veggie versions!!

SuperChef (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 12:09 pm | Reply

Tofu

The tofu version is also excellent. It lacks the uncomaprable sweetness of pork, but I liked it very much. GREG

jgreghenry | May 27th, 2009 at 12:40 pm | Reply

*drool*

I love bahn mi sandwiches, although I am less adventurous and tend to stick to chicken.

sugarlens (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 10:22 am | Reply

I miss them already...

...the bahn mi that is. I found another good spot for same while I was in SF - latte express on 5th st - I had the tofu special, very tasty, though, come to think of it, it might have cost a bit more than 3 dolla and didn't have any endearing group ordering system! In any case, now that you have introduced me to bahn mi, I think I need to introduce bahn mi to Dublin - it's a very worthy project I think...

The Daily Spud (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 4:26 am | Reply

Lucky you to eat at the Zuni Cafe

Lucky you to get to eat at the Zuni Cafe. Sounds like you had fun. Vietnam food sounds really good - like the French touch but that's not a surprise coming from me. Sadly no chance of good Vietnamese food here in the mountains. Thanks for taking us along on your adventures Greg.
Sam

My Carolina Kitchen (not verified) | May 27th, 2009 at 3:41 am | Reply

It doesn't get any better

To me bahn mi is perfection! It doesn't get any better, the zippy taste, and crunch between two halves of a french role. Living in SF - they take their bahn mi's seriously, and I noticed that there are the usual options, some stores, try to branch out and make their own specialties. A new Vietnamese place near me offers a fish ball bahn mi for example. But seriously, its like the last great deal, they usually average $3 - $3.5 and they are just so tasty! I have this link on my site, but wanted to share it: http://battleofthebanhmi.com/ Funnily enough, the person is also on FoodBuzz.

OysterCulture (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 7:34 pm | Reply

Me and Bahn Mi Go Way Back

Greg: I'm glad you decided to de-lurk. Your enthusiasm for bahn mi is awesome!! I'll refer this place to my SF-dwelling friend The Gourmet Pig. Best, Cathy D

Gastronomer (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 7:06 pm | Reply

Looks wonderful!

I am glad that you guys had fun, and that dish looks great!

Chef E (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 6:27 pm | Reply

Chef E!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I always look forward to your comments! GREG

jgreghenry | May 26th, 2009 at 8:11 pm | Reply

Beautiful job. I love Bahn Mi

Beautiful job. I love Bahn Mi sandwiches!

alice (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 5:57 pm | Reply

Nice!

I've put this in the place I need to eat the next I go back to the bay area. There's actually a new Vietnamese place near my house. I wonder if they'd have this on the menu. I must find out.

I'm drawing a blank at the moment at what a "Hollywood" Bahn Mi would be. But I'm sure you'd make an awesome one. The nice thing about LA is that we're so culturally diverse in ingredients here that it can be made from anything.

jenn (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 3:03 pm | Reply

yes do go...

I put a yelp link in the post to help folks find it. I hear there are other good Bahn Mi in SF, but this is where I went! GREG

jgreghenry | May 26th, 2009 at 3:36 pm | Reply

No ordinary sandwich

At first that bahn mi doesn't look so exciting, but after reading about it, not only do I want it, I want it now, and I want it in San Francisco, and I want it at that little place you mentioned. I want to stand in line and wait knowing I'm in for a treat.

Angela@SpinachTiger (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 3:02 pm | Reply

You are right...

...the first time I went there I was very put off by the line. So I peeked and the window and saw all these little "subs" and thought "that is what all the fuss is about". But for 3 dollars you cannot have a more culinary experience anywhere in San Fransisco. I was obviously converted! GREG

jgreghenry | May 26th, 2009 at 3:34 pm | Reply

Wow. I'd like to do so many

Wow. I'd like to do so many bad things to that sandwich it looks so good.

Sadly, a quick search has yielded no local source for bahn mi:( I'm going to have to try to make my own.

Chris (not verified) | May 26th, 2009 at 2:35 pm | Reply

yes do make them

I can imagine you bbq-ing the pork first and making your own version. Yum! GREG

jgreghenry | May 26th, 2009 at 3:31 pm | Reply

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